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From: genius on 28 Jun 2010 17:16
On Jun 28, 3:00 pm, "Chumley" <inva...(a)invalid.com> wrote:
> "Scott Dorsey" <klu...(a)panix.com> wrote in message
>
> news:i0am7u$3gr$1(a)panix2.panix.com...
>
>
>
> > genius  <gen...(a)socal.rr.com> wrote:
>
> >>Thanks for the reply.  I thought about one of those infrared temp
> >>things but where do I point it, thermostat housing?  How accurate are
> >>they?
>
> > The cheapies are accurate to within a couple degrees.  WAY less expensive
> > and more accurate than the old optical pyrometers.
>
> > One thing you can do is check various places along the radiator... the
> > incoming water should be hotter than the outgoing water, and there should
> > not be any cold spots in the radiator.  If you see cold spots, it is
> > because
> > some sections of the radiator are clogged.
>
> > The cooling system will work fine if the coolant is circulating properly.
> > A clog in the radiator, a bad thermostat, a bad water pump, or a clogged
> > block can keep the coolant from circulating properly.
> > --scott
> > --
> > "C'est un Nagra.  C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
>
> water pump vanes corrode, 1995 is probably due for replacement.
>
> if not electric fan => the Fan Clutch could have gone bad.
>
> Does it overheat with AC on or off ?
>
> The radiator cap may have lost its pressure holding capability, replace.
>
> Watch the water level closely and see if you losing steam or water over
> time, if not gauge is off.
>
> if you have a code reader, you could get the "water temp" as put to the
> computer.
>
> many after market thermostats are not that good.
>
> Good luck and let us know what you find out
>
> -1993 5.0 8# KB

Thanks for the response. I replaced the radiator cap with a new 16lb
Stant. No coolant loss, no water in oil or oil in water. Doesn't get
any hotter or stay any cooler with ac on vs off. Car has electric
fan, it does cycle on and when idling, maybe 20-30 seconds later,
shuts down for 1-2 minutes, then repeats. I got the car hot, turned
it off and pressed my hand (where I could get it, wedged between fan
blades, belts and pulleys) against the radiator and it seemed to be
hot everywhere I touched. Crawled under the car and grabbed lower
radiator hose. It wasn't nearly as hot as the top radiator hose but
still warm to the touch. I got a stant superstat from Napa as I
thought they were supposed to be the best and coolant is nice and
green, no floaties and good to -30f according to my cheapie
hydrometer. I really suspect the gauge or sending unit but am not
sure how to test accurately. I will try to get an infrared
temperature reader as soon as I can.

thanks for the tips!
From: jim on 28 Jun 2010 17:30


genius wrote:

>
> Thanks for the response. I replaced the radiator cap with a new 16lb
> Stant. No coolant loss, no water in oil or oil in water. Doesn't get
> any hotter or stay any cooler with ac on vs off. Car has electric
> fan, it does cycle on and when idling, maybe 20-30 seconds later,
> shuts down for 1-2 minutes, then repeats. I got the car hot, turned
> it off and pressed my hand (where I could get it, wedged between fan
> blades, belts and pulleys) against the radiator and it seemed to be
> hot everywhere I touched. Crawled under the car and grabbed lower
> radiator hose. It wasn't nearly as hot as the top radiator hose but
> still warm to the touch. I got a stant superstat from Napa as I
> thought they were supposed to be the best and coolant is nice and
> green, no floaties and good to -30f according to my cheapie
> hydrometer. I really suspect the gauge or sending unit but am not
> sure how to test accurately. I will try to get an infrared
> temperature reader as soon as I can.
>
> thanks for the tips!

Are you you sure you are looking at the right sending unit for the temp
gauge. This may have one sensor for the computer and fan operation and
another that is for the temperature gauge.

-jim
From: hls on 28 Jun 2010 20:30

"genius" <genius(a)socal.rr.com> wrote in message news:bdfa1f6c-d9ae-46a5-
How accurate are
they? If they are within 20 or 25 degrees I would think that would
help. Yes, the 5.0L also has 2 temp sensors, the ECT for the PCM and
the sender for the gauge. Both replaced. If it was the thermostat,
wouldn't the fans come on before the thermostat opened? If that
happened I would have caught that when holding the upper hose.

They are not super accurate... You aim them at the area you want to
measure. If you get an answer within 20F, I think that is about normal.


From: hls on 28 Jun 2010 20:34

"Scott Dorsey" <kludge(a)panix.com> wrote in message
news:i0am7u$3gr$1(a)panix2.panix.com...
> genius <genius(a)socal.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>>Thanks for the reply. I thought about one of those infrared temp
>>things but where do I point it, thermostat housing? How accurate are
>>they?
>
> The cheapies are accurate to within a couple degrees. WAY less expensive
> and more accurate than the old optical pyrometers.


Scott, I have tested these under laboratory conditions, versus mercury
thermometers, and I have not found them to be so very accurate.. Our
laser units are cheap, in the $100 range. Good enough for some
types of measurements but not really good enough for what I do.

Maybe within 20-25F. Maybe...

I normally work in the range of 160C, or that equivalent in F.


From: Chumley on 28 Jun 2010 20:37

"genius" <genius(a)socal.rr.com> wrote in message
news:e2e37aee-cb9f-4e01-a076-9972f3576049(a)j7g2000prj.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 28, 3:00 pm, "Chumley" <inva...(a)invalid.com> wrote:
> "Scott Dorsey" <klu...(a)panix.com> wrote in message
>
> news:i0am7u$3gr$1(a)panix2.panix.com...
>
>
>
> > genius <gen...(a)socal.rr.com> wrote:
>
> >>Thanks for the reply. I thought about one of those infrared temp
> >>things but where do I point it, thermostat housing? How accurate are
> >>they?
>
> > The cheapies are accurate to within a couple degrees. WAY less expensive
> > and more accurate than the old optical pyrometers.
>
> > One thing you can do is check various places along the radiator... the
> > incoming water should be hotter than the outgoing water, and there
> > should
> > not be any cold spots in the radiator. If you see cold spots, it is
> > because
> > some sections of the radiator are clogged.
>
> > The cooling system will work fine if the coolant is circulating
> > properly.
> > A clog in the radiator, a bad thermostat, a bad water pump, or a clogged
> > block can keep the coolant from circulating properly.
> > --scott
> > --
> > "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
>
> water pump vanes corrode, 1995 is probably due for replacement.
>
> if not electric fan => the Fan Clutch could have gone bad.
>
> Does it overheat with AC on or off ?
>
> The radiator cap may have lost its pressure holding capability, replace.
>
> Watch the water level closely and see if you losing steam or water over
> time, if not gauge is off.
>
> if you have a code reader, you could get the "water temp" as put to the
> computer.
>
> many after market thermostats are not that good.
>
> Good luck and let us know what you find out
>
> -1993 5.0 8# KB

Thanks for the response. I replaced the radiator cap with a new 16lb
Stant. No coolant loss, no water in oil or oil in water. Doesn't get
any hotter or stay any cooler with ac on vs off. Car has electric
fan, it does cycle on and when idling, maybe 20-30 seconds later,
shuts down for 1-2 minutes, then repeats. I got the car hot, turned
it off and pressed my hand (where I could get it, wedged between fan
blades, belts and pulleys) against the radiator and it seemed to be
hot everywhere I touched. Crawled under the car and grabbed lower
radiator hose. It wasn't nearly as hot as the top radiator hose but
still warm to the touch. I got a stant superstat from Napa as I
thought they were supposed to be the best and coolant is nice and
green, no floaties and good to -30f according to my cheapie
hydrometer. I really suspect the gauge or sending unit but am not
sure how to test accurately. I will try to get an infrared
temperature reader as soon as I can.

thanks for the tips!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Actually plain water cools the best, but in the long term causes corrosion
problems,
the green stuff is less conductive, much less corrosive, but does not have
the cooling capacity of plain water.

The thermostat should have a small hole, or small hole with small rivet in
the top half to allow steam and help open the thermostat on Mustang, well
the 93, other cars don't have it.

Fan sounds like it is doing OK, and cycling indicates it is cycling through
the temperature range, and it is sitting on the high side.

you still could have worn water pump, not sure how to check it.
I replaced mine suspecting it might be a problem when my car was running
hot, and it was corroded quite a lot, missing a lot of impeller blades,
probably only had 1/2 the amount of flow, that was at about 115k miles. I
put in a performance part. With a supercharger, you have to pull out all
the stops to get the best cooling.

http://www.scangauge.com/products/ if you can afford it, should work on a
95, tells you what the computer is seeing, so if the water temp is 200 or
so, then it is fine. The thermostat change to 180 will not lower the water
temp to 180, the engine will still produce a lot of heat. Thermostat has two
temperatures one for opening and one for closing and cycles between, the one
you have has less with the notch in it which seems fine. Stock thermostat
then water => about 220 180 => about 200 160 => about 185 or so
(approximate)


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