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From: Mrcheerful on 17 May 2010 14:59

"Douglas Payne" <douggie(a)cheerful.com> wrote in message
news:85dhf7FqffU1(a)mid.individual.net...
>T i m wrote:
>> On Sun, 16 May 2010 18:05:38 +0100, Conor <conor(a)gmx.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>>> On 16/05/2010 17:09, T i m wrote:
>>>
>>>> So, what to do with the Corsa.
>>> Fix it.
>>
>> Ok.
>>>> Would summat like that be worth the
>>>> cost of getting it through the MOT do we think please (either to sell
>>>> or as a cheapo runabout whilst it's still actually running)? I think
>>>> they are willing to do as much of the work as they can (with some
>>>> remote guidance), especially the more basic silly_not_to stuff like
>>>> the headlamp and number plate etc. I think they (the family) are happy
>>>> for them to have a go ... little to lose etc (I'd have them get it
>>>> checked over afterwards etc).
>>> Better the devil you know.
>>
>> That was one of my thoughts but I wasn't sure if it carried any weight
>> in this situation (at that mileage / particular jobs etc).
>>> find my brother a cheap runaround, you're going to have all hell on
>>> finding anything remotely worthwhile under �1000. Anything sub �5-�600
>>> is going to have issues.
>>
>> Understood.
>>
>> So, on that then, even if they did it up (just) to sell it would be
>> worth doing so.
>>
>> I'll pass that back ta.
>>
>> Cheers, T i m
>>
>>
>> p.s. I have a std pivoting action ball joint splitter that I've used
>> plenty on track_rod_ends and lower steering ball joints (from my
>> Morris Minor days <g>). Would that be suitable for the suspension drop
>> links as they look a bit smaller. I've also got him to buy a half
>> decent 1/2" sq dr socket set up there and pre-spray the nuts / bolts
>> with penetrating fluid. Whatabout the outer CV gaitors. Do the split
>> ones actually work?
>
> Haven't read the rest of the thread yet, but the only real answer for
> droplinks is "Angle Grinder".
>
> CV boots have to be done the old fashioned way.
>
> If the suspension arms are out or at least the bottom balljoints, its not
> going to be a biggie to do a boot as long as you crack the hub nut while
> the car is on the ground.
>
> --
> Douglas

Strange, but I can't ever remember cutting off a drop link, just get decent
tools and maybe a blowtorch.
there is no need to undo the hub nut to change the cv boot, on many cars
there is not even any need to take off the wheel, but at home it is probably
easiest, but I would still leave the hub nut alone, just leave the cvjoint
in the hub and separate the shaft (after undoing the bottom ball joint. the
weight of the hub makes reconnecting the joint easy.


From: T i m on 17 May 2010 16:09
On Mon, 17 May 2010 19:50:14 +0100, Douglas Payne
<douggie(a)cheerful.com> wrote:


>
>Haven't read the rest of the thread yet, but the only real answer for
>droplinks is "Angle Grinder".

Oh really? What bit doesn't want to move then? (They have an angle
grinder up there cos daughter uses it for sanding her chainsaw
carvings). ;-)
>
>CV boots have to be done the old fashioned way.

Ok ...
>
>If the suspension arms are out or at least the bottom balljoints, its
>not going to be a biggie to do a boot as long as you crack the hub nut
>while the car is on the ground.

So does the shaft pull / tap out of the CV joint? Is there any chance
of the shaft pulling out of the gearbox / diff?

Daughter has ordered a Haynes BOL from eBay today and he's been giving
all the nuts and bolts a good spraying with penetrating fluid.

He sent me some photos of all the bits and I couldn't see how the rear
wishbone mount bolt would come out? I can see the pointed end of the
bolt pointing forwards and a fair size nut but I can't see from the
pic where the head is or how you would get to it.

On this model, is there any captive stuff that is known to shear off
and leave the inexperienced in the poo?

Thanks for the help.

Cheers, T i m

From: Mrcheerful on 17 May 2010 16:45

"T i m" <news(a)spaced.me.uk> wrote in message
news:5u73v5dbvi4ohgkbugjl14d19shk3i1cgk(a)4ax.com...
> On Mon, 17 May 2010 19:50:14 +0100, Douglas Payne
> <douggie(a)cheerful.com> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Haven't read the rest of the thread yet, but the only real answer for
>>droplinks is "Angle Grinder".
>
> Oh really? What bit doesn't want to move then? (They have an angle
> grinder up there cos daughter uses it for sanding her chainsaw
> carvings). ;-)
>>
>>CV boots have to be done the old fashioned way.
>
> Ok ...
>>
>>If the suspension arms are out or at least the bottom balljoints, its
>>not going to be a biggie to do a boot as long as you crack the hub nut
>>while the car is on the ground.
>
> So does the shaft pull / tap out of the CV joint? Is there any chance
> of the shaft pulling out of the gearbox / diff?
>
> Daughter has ordered a Haynes BOL from eBay today and he's been giving
> all the nuts and bolts a good spraying with penetrating fluid.
>
> He sent me some photos of all the bits and I couldn't see how the rear
> wishbone mount bolt would come out? I can see the pointed end of the
> bolt pointing forwards and a fair size nut but I can't see from the
> pic where the head is or how you would get to it.
>
> On this model, is there any captive stuff that is known to shear off
> and leave the inexperienced in the poo?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Cheers, T i m
>

Vauxhall cv joints are held on with a special circlip that needs to be
opened up to let the shaft out, there are special tools to do it, but you
can use circlip pliers or needle nose pliers or even the right width flat
screwdriver. yes you can pull the shaft out of the box, but there should
not be any need for much force while separating the shaft. a strategic pair
of mole grips can anchor the shaft in place.

can't remember ever having to change the arms, so don't worry about how they
are fixed (as it has not failed on them), but I'll bet it is
straightforward.

the nuts for the drop links can be very tight to remove, which is why you
need a blow lamp and a pair of thin mole grips to get them off without an
angle grinder.


From: Douglas Payne on 17 May 2010 18:06
Mrcheerful wrote:
> "Douglas Payne" <douggie(a)cheerful.com> wrote in message
> news:85dhf7FqffU1(a)mid.individual.net...
>> T i m wrote:
>>> On Sun, 16 May 2010 18:05:38 +0100, Conor <conor(a)gmx.co.uk> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 16/05/2010 17:09, T i m wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> So, what to do with the Corsa.
>>>> Fix it.
>>> Ok.
>>>>> Would summat like that be worth the
>>>>> cost of getting it through the MOT do we think please (either to sell
>>>>> or as a cheapo runabout whilst it's still actually running)? I think
>>>>> they are willing to do as much of the work as they can (with some
>>>>> remote guidance), especially the more basic silly_not_to stuff like
>>>>> the headlamp and number plate etc. I think they (the family) are happy
>>>>> for them to have a go ... little to lose etc (I'd have them get it
>>>>> checked over afterwards etc).
>>>> Better the devil you know.
>>> That was one of my thoughts but I wasn't sure if it carried any weight
>>> in this situation (at that mileage / particular jobs etc).
>>>> find my brother a cheap runaround, you're going to have all hell on
>>>> finding anything remotely worthwhile under �1000. Anything sub �5-�600
>>>> is going to have issues.
>>> Understood.
>>>
>>> So, on that then, even if they did it up (just) to sell it would be
>>> worth doing so.
>>>
>>> I'll pass that back ta.
>>>
>>> Cheers, T i m
>>>
>>>
>>> p.s. I have a std pivoting action ball joint splitter that I've used
>>> plenty on track_rod_ends and lower steering ball joints (from my
>>> Morris Minor days <g>). Would that be suitable for the suspension drop
>>> links as they look a bit smaller. I've also got him to buy a half
>>> decent 1/2" sq dr socket set up there and pre-spray the nuts / bolts
>>> with penetrating fluid. Whatabout the outer CV gaitors. Do the split
>>> ones actually work?
>> Haven't read the rest of the thread yet, but the only real answer for
>> droplinks is "Angle Grinder".
>>
>> CV boots have to be done the old fashioned way.
>>
>> If the suspension arms are out or at least the bottom balljoints, its not
>> going to be a biggie to do a boot as long as you crack the hub nut while
>> the car is on the ground.
>>
>> --
>> Douglas
>
> Strange, but I can't ever remember cutting off a drop link, just get decent
> tools and maybe a blowtorch.

I have cut the bolt on several drop links. Saved the heartache of worn
balljoints spinning aimlessly in their worn plastic bushes. Make sure
both wheels are off the ground. DAMHIKIJDOK?

> there is no need to undo the hub nut to change the cv boot, on many cars
> there is not even any need to take off the wheel, but at home it is probably
> easiest, but I would still leave the hub nut alone, just leave the cvjoint
> in the hub and separate the shaft (after undoing the bottom ball joint. the
> weight of the hub makes reconnecting the joint easy.

I'll confess to never having replaced a boot without renewing the joint
at the same time. And the last one I did was a Passat. And I didn't
undo the bottom balljoints. (c: I changed the alternator belt on a
Corsa once.

--
Douglas
From: Douglas Payne on 17 May 2010 18:16
T i m wrote:
> On Mon, 17 May 2010 19:50:14 +0100, Douglas Payne
> <douggie(a)cheerful.com> wrote:
>
>
>> Haven't read the rest of the thread yet, but the only real answer for
>> droplinks is "Angle Grinder".
>
> Oh really? What bit doesn't want to move then? (They have an angle
> grinder up there cos daughter uses it for sanding her chainsaw
> carvings). ;-)

My experience of not having an air impact wrench is that the rust
holding the nut onto the threaded part is stronger than what's left of
the inside of the balljoint so when you turn it, the ball rotates in its
cup and doesn't unscrew.

Sometimes there is a cheese hex or torx shaped hole in the end, or space
to clamp the threads, or flats for a ground-thin spanner but I get much
more satisfaction and fewer grazed knuckles by cutting the nut off with
an angry grinder.

I've never done a Corsa. But I've cut them off a couple of 205s and
306s (sometimes the whole droplink is plastic on these) and an Audi.
Passat's droplinks were aluminium and didn't have a balljoint in them,
just bolts through a rubber bush at each end.

I am rambling. Haynes, as you mention below could be the future. Along
with angle grinder, IMHO.

>> CV boots have to be done the old fashioned way.
>
> Ok ...
>> If the suspension arms are out or at least the bottom balljoints, its
>> not going to be a biggie to do a boot as long as you crack the hub nut
>> while the car is on the ground.
>
> So does the shaft pull / tap out of the CV joint? Is there any chance
> of the shaft pulling out of the gearbox / diff?
>
> Daughter has ordered a Haynes BOL from eBay today and he's been giving
> all the nuts and bolts a good spraying with penetrating fluid.
>
> He sent me some photos of all the bits and I couldn't see how the rear
> wishbone mount bolt would come out? I can see the pointed end of the
> bolt pointing forwards and a fair size nut but I can't see from the
> pic where the head is or how you would get to it.
>
> On this model, is there any captive stuff that is known to shear off
> and leave the inexperienced in the poo?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Cheers, T i m

--
Douglas
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