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From: Carona_Guy on 15 Apr 2007 22:31
My RT142 has just started doing the same thing.
I have noticed that the "not starting" problem gets worse during hot
weather. (Don't know if that helps.)
The conking out tends to occur after about ten minutes of normal
driving. I am really keen to hear if you have worked the problem out.
Please let me know.
also does you engine stutter slightly at idle?
From: Jason James on 16 Apr 2007 15:10
"Carona_Guy" <Carona_Guy.2p42tp(a)no-mx.phorums.com.au> wrote in message
> My RT142 has just started doing the same thing.
> I have noticed that the "not starting" problem gets worse during hot
> weather. (Don't know if that helps.)
> The conking out tends to occur after about ten minutes of normal
> driving. I am really keen to hear if you have worked the problem out.
> Please let me know.
> also does you engine stutter slightly at idle?
Basically, most engines snuff because they either have none, or too little
ignition or little or no fuel. Also, the ignition can be strong, but has
lost correct timing and the fuel can be there, but is effected by a vacuum
leak,..but initially, when the engine has stopped and refuses to start,
remove one spark-plug lead, insert a screwdriver blade up where the plug
normally goes in the lead, then while holding the screwdriver exposed blade
about 1cm from the engine block, get a helper to crank the engine,...spark
should easily jump 1cm and be blue in colour. If OK, depress the throttle
(assuming its a carby) a few times (engine off) while peering into the carby
throat. Should be a lot of fuel mist happening, and even able to see a
squirt of fuel from the eccelerator-pump outlet. If OK, check all small
vacuum hoses are not split or off their ports (small fittings they go over).
If OK, time to check ignition timing. A workshop manual is good for this
test, but if you want the low-down, get back to this thread.
Good idea to check airfilter is not super-clogged. If fuel is absent from
carby, locate fuel-filter and check for blockage. Undo tank side of filter.
If fuel is there (suck briefly to ascertain this if neceassary), but not on
carby side, filter is blocked. If ignition is absent, a number of causes can
be the culprit,. basically, you check spark is present at ignition coil HT
lead. If it is, then dizzy-cap or leads are suss. if not, check battery
volts present at + post of coil ignition ON. Maybe as low as 8Volts
depending on use of ballast resistor. If OK, remove connection at -ve post,
then apply an earth (use piece of wire from engine block to post) to -ve
post, if still no spark, coil is suss, if spark appears, either points (if
fitted) or ignition module is out to lunch. Need to check the integrity of
all electrical connections, first, while performing these checks.
From: Carona_Guy on 21 Apr 2007 00:37
I've checked around the EGR vacuum hoses, nothing going on there. I'm
not sure how the PCV valve works but it think that in the case of it
being blocked it would still not kill the engine. I think that the Fuel
system is looking more to blame now. Its started to rain and I don't
have a car port! So I'm off to get a manual for the Corona.
Just a few dumb questions before I go.
Does anyone have any idea what temperature the EFI relay Should run at?
After the last "conk out" it was almost too hot to touch, could this be
relevant? What would cause it to overheat?
I am tempted to think that it might be electrical, but the fact that it
gets better after five to ten minutes lends more weight to your fuel
Thanks again for your help
From: Jason James on 21 Apr 2007 10:45
"Carona_Guy" <Carona_Guy.2pdi72(a)no-mx.phorums.com.au> wrote in message
> I've checked around the EGR vacuum hoses, nothing going on there. I'm
> not sure how the PCV valve works but it think that in the case of it
> being blocked it would still not kill the engine.
I'm not sure what style of EGR system your Corona has, but basically there
will be a connection which runs from the exhaust manifold (this will be
obvious in a cross-flow engine where the exhaust manifold is on the opposite
side of the head than the intake) to a vacuum operated valve. If these
components are easily identified, I would temporarily block-off the exhaust
access as close as possible to the inlet as a test.
I think that the Fuel
> system is looking more to blame now. Its started to rain and I don't
> have a car port! So I'm off to get a manual for the Corona.
> Just a few dumb questions before I go.
No suc h thing, just dumb answers!
> Does anyone have any idea what temperature the EFI relay Should run at?
> After the last "conk out" it was almost too hot to touch, could this be
> relevant? What would cause it to overheat?
The coil of the relay should not be too hot to touch, period. As long as the
armature is operating (ie relay is pulling in) and the contacts aren't
burnt, its most likely OK.
> I am tempted to think that it might be electrical, but the fact that it
> gets better after five to ten minutes lends more weight to your fuel
Make sure you can hear the fuel-pump humming at the fuel-tank. If its gone
intermittant, due a fault within itself or a battery supply intermittancy,
it will give you those symptoms.
From: Carona_Guy on 29 Apr 2007 08:23
I have actually traced it back to the ignition system. (I hope)
Ok time to restate my assumptions.
* Engine conks out
* Spark Ok
* Fuel Ok
Ergo something else must be the cause, Fuel strainers, EGR valves,
emission control system etcetera...
First of all I swear that last time when the engine conked out, I
pulled the lead off the coil and saw sparks. Then I pulled the tube off
at the back of the fuel pressure regulator, plenty of petrol gushing out
there. Then I fiddle around for a while longer, checking lume
connections and stuff. What I did not consider is that the problem
(being as intermittent as it is) had fixed its self as I had opened the
bonnet. Basically what I am trying to say is that, I stuffed up. I was
testing a healthy engine. :( Of course it wouldn't have started with
the ignition lead off, or with no pressure in the injector rails.
So heres the new stuff. Part of the difficulty is replicating the
problem, when I had the tools and a spare bod around to turn the key
This week I have been making it to work and back, just! Its a ten to
twelve minute journey. Tuesday I finally had my brother around when the
problem occurred. We pulled the lead off and no spark. Pretty obvious
then, coil or backwards. I took it up to the local mechanic and asked
if I could have a coil, (me thinking of just replacing parts until
something works) The mechanic who was a nice guy, had a quick look and
told me that its 99.9% chance of not being the coil, it was more likely
to be the igniter pack.
I took it down to the Toyota wreckers to see if they had an igniter
pack. No Joy! :( But... they did show me how to read the "flush
codes" from the ECU.
So I now know that it is definitely in the ignition system. (3 blinks)
So now the hunt is on for a "coil igniter pack" for a 22R-E Toyota
I hope to get around on Thursday and source one; hopefully my problems
will be solved. I will just limp it around until then.
For those of you with 22R-E's interested in the self diagnosis,
I will post the "how to" and more importantly, the "error codes"
(I don't have them on me)
hope this was helpful. Moral of the story for me, work through
logically, recheck your assumptions! (I feel like an idiot, although I
also learned how the emission control systems work on my engine).
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