From: Mike on

"Brent P" <tetraethylleadREMOVETHIS(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3pOdnSmtV-AQ15bbnZ2dnUVZ_orinZ2d(a)comcast.com...
> In article <35mdnf-ezp432pbbnZ2dnUVZWhednZ2d(a)giganews.com>, Steve Barker
> wrote:
>> Wrong, just Wrong.
>
> In which universe? Not in this one.
>
> Here's a hint... oil coolers use the coolant to cool the oil.
>
>

Wrong again Bret. Transmission coolers use the coolant in the radiator to
cool. All the engine oil coolers I have ever seen were air cooled regardless
of manufacturer.


From: Brent P on
In article <s4QOh.5630$B25.2607(a)news01.roc.ny>, Mike wrote:
>
> "Brent P" <tetraethylleadREMOVETHIS(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:wJWdnaPFx-OKoZbbnZ2dnUVZ_hadnZ2d(a)comcast.com...
>> In article <5e7m03h7jbpfh502qbt6nepp7ic8rsh94e(a)4ax.com>, clare at
>> snyder.on.ca wrote:
>>
>>> Minimum 20 minutes to get the oil to full operating temperature, and
>>> then about another 10 minutes for every day of short run cold morning,
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>> When your coolant has reached OT and the thermostat is open, the oil has
>> reached operating temperature some time before that. It's basic heat
>> transfer. If it had not, the coolant and engine block would still be
>> warming the oil and the Tstat would remain close.

> Wrong. The oil takes much longer to reach operating temp than the
> coolant. Want proof, just wait till the thermostat opens and feel the bottom
> of the oil pan, still not hot is it ?

The oil is circulating, not sitting in the pan warming it up. The pan is
where oil cools for the next go around. The pan should be cooler than the
oil circulating in the engine.


From: Mike on

"John Henderson" <jhenRemoveThis(a)talk21.com> wrote in message
news:570njeF2bipsiU1(a)mid.individual.net...
> jwardl wrote:
>
>> How can oil be changed TOO often? Personally, think I'll stick
>> with 3/3k.
>
> Because there's more wear with new oil than with moderately
> stressed oil.

Got any proof to back up that claim ? I have to call bullshit on that one,
it doesn't even make sense.

>
> If the lab results were different, I'd be changing my oil more
> frequently. At some point, you've got to go with the evidence
> and leave the fairy stories and wishful thinking behind.
>
> John


From: zwsdotcom on
On Mar 27, 8:51 pm, SMS <scharf.ste...(a)geemail.com> wrote:

> Can you even still buy plain SAE-30 oil any more?

Yes. Rotella T SAE 30 available in gallon jugs at your friendly
Autozone, Pep Boys etc. It will be with the "special stuff" like
synchromesh lube, marine and mower application type materials. I use
it in my T90 transmission.



From: C. E. White on

"Mike" <mik(a)localnet.com> wrote in message
news:s4QOh.5630$B25.2607(a)news01.roc.ny...
>
> "Brent P" <tetraethylleadREMOVETHIS(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:wJWdnaPFx-OKoZbbnZ2dnUVZ_hadnZ2d(a)comcast.com...
>> In article <5e7m03h7jbpfh502qbt6nepp7ic8rsh94e(a)4ax.com>, clare at
>> snyder.on.ca wrote:
>>
>>> Minimum 20 minutes to get the oil to full operating temperature,
>>> and
>>> then about another 10 minutes for every day of short run cold
>>> morning,
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>> When your coolant has reached OT and the thermostat is open, the
>> oil has
>> reached operating temperature some time before that. It's basic
>> heat
>> transfer. If it had not, the coolant and engine block would still
>> be
>> warming the oil and the Tstat would remain close.
>>
>
> Wrong. The oil takes much longer to reach operating temp than the
> coolant. Want proof, just wait till the thermostat opens and feel
> the bottom of the oil pan, still not hot is it ?

Have you ever has a car with an oil temperature gauge? I have (1981
Audi Coupe). The oil temperature tended to rise very quickly at first,
then increase more slowly, reaching the maximum only after the water
temperature had leveled off (this is assuming steady state operation,
like on a relatively long trip). I am not sure what you would consider
normal operating temperature, but for that car, the oil clearly
reached a "high" temperature before the water did. On the other hand
that car did not have an oil cooler (although the European version
did). The oil temperature gauge was fascinating. It moved around
differently than the water temperature gauge. When you were cruising
on the highway, the water temperature gauge was rock steady,
regardless of speed. The oil temperature wasn't. If you drove faster,
the oil temperature increased. When you stopped at a light, the water
temperature would increase until the electric fan cut in. The oil
temperature on the other hand would creep downward at idle. In
retrospect, this all seem logical based on what is heating the two
fluids - the oil is heated both by contact with hot engine components
and by shearing in the bearings, in the pump and on the cylinder
walls. The water is only heated by contact with metal that is heated
from the opposite side by combustion and friction. Initially the oil
is heated much more quickly than the water. The oil temperature is
also much more responsive to changes in engine load.

Ed