Brake advice on a 1996 chevy Silverado 4x4
in [Technical]
|
Prev: engine flush with diesel fuel?
Next: ABS bleeding
From: stryped on 24 May 2010 15:20 On May 24, 1:55 pm, "hls" <h...(a)nospam.nix> wrote: > "stryped" <stryp...(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:07300393-2e0b- > > Is it possible for the cylinder to leak like it did only temporarily?? > No I did not bleed the brakes, I never took anythign off other than > the shoes. My manual did not say anything about it. SHould I have? > > ****** > The wheel cylinders can leak when you are trying to get the shoes > held down, get the actuating rods back between the shoes and the > pistons in the cylinder, etc. This is because the pistons inside the > cylinders can be pressed too far to one end or the other of the > cylinder bore, and some fluid could leak out. This, in itself, is not > a serious problem if you get them back like they should be AND > if they are not corroded and leaking. > > If you could have a person who knows how to reassemble the rear > drum brakes help you do this just once, you would find it a lot easier > next time. > ******* > > I drove in reverse and applied the brake several times to adjust them. > Was that right? > > ****** > Normally, you pre-adjust the rear brakes before you go through that step. > > If the brakes are too far out of adjustment, the autoadjusters will not > activate properly on backing up and you will have a problem. > > To do this, you put the drum back on. Then, there is usually a hole in > the backing plate of the rear brake assembly through which you can > insert a tool and advance the starwheel until almost all the slack is taken > out of the braking system...The tool required looks a little like a > flatblade > screwdriver, and a fine blade screwdriver has been used > millions of times to do this job. > > Jim refers to tools required to do this job.. I have never found a use for > the special brake pliars that are often advertised and are found in FLAPS.. > > There is a special tool used to put the retainers on the hold down rods > that is helpful, but this job can be done with a regular set of pliars, > with > a little practice.. > > There is also a special tool that can be used to remove and replace the > springs and, to me, this one IS helpful, but you can do the job, if you are > strong, with a set of diagonal cutters...They allow you to get a good grip > on the springs > and - despite what it sounds like - they do not damage the springs. > > If a car is getting old, I would at least inspect the wheel cylinders. I > would > guess that not too many people rebuild them nowadays because they are > normally fairly cheap to replace. > > BUT if you want to replace them, be careful and do not booger up the > brakeline nut that screws into the old ones when you try to replace > them...Use a "line wrench" - not a Crescent nor even an open end wrench. > > One last thing...did you take the adjusters apart, clean them in solvent, > and > re-lubricate them before you put them back on? You want to be sure those > adjusters move freely. Nota Bene: The adjusters on the left side are > different from those on the right and they are not at all interchangeable.. > You > dont have to worry about this since you did only one side, and there should > have been no chance you would get the wrong one on the wrong side. I did take the adjusters apart, cleaned them, and re greased them. I also installed new springs. There was no oil on either wheel cylinder when I took the drums off. I am hopng the fluid does not mean I damaged the cylinder. I used the other wheel to copy the pad and spring placement on the wheel I was workign on. (drivers side). I am going to double check but I feel the master cylinder probably needs replacing. Is this hard? I know how to bleed brakes and I have a vacuum pump from harbor freight for brakes. But, it seems someone said they had to bleed there abs too? Is that necessary and how is that done? I just worry thinking this will be a quick repair with the mast cylinder and doing somthign like breaking off a bleeder screw or something. I really appreciate your patient and help!
From: hls on 24 May 2010 15:57 "stryped" <stryped1(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:29d7e4ce-2d31- There was no oil on either wheel cylinder when I took the drums off. I am hopng the fluid does not mean I damaged the cylinder. ****** You didnt damage the wheel cylinder...Sometimes they will dribble a little IF you move the pistons too far to one side or the other...as you might do if you are fighting the brake springs. But, if you got them back together properly, and if they were ok to begin with, there should be no residual problem. As Aarcuda says, these things dont leak a little and then stop IF they are corroded or have the rubber parts damaged. With a vehicle as old as yours, and with as many miles, I would have at least inspected the cylinders, if not just replaced them automatically. ******** ******** I used the other wheel to copy the pad and spring placement on the wheel I was workign on. (drivers side). ******** Fair enough, but you still dont have pads ;>). Until you get more experienced, I would suggest that you make a little drawing of systems that can be confusing...Note where springs attach, the sequence of washers, springs, bolts etc. Or even make a picture with your digital camera in case you get confused later.. ******** I am going to double check but I feel the master cylinder probably needs replacing. Is this hard? I know how to bleed brakes and I have a vacuum pump from harbor freight for brakes. But, it seems someone said they had to bleed there abs too? Is that necessary and how is that done? ****** If you have ABS, special bleeding techniques may be required. Look them up in your book. Now, it is normally not too hard to change out a master cylinder. Again, use proper "line wrenches" ,when needed, not visegrips or water pump pliars, or crescent wrenches. ******* I just worry thinking this will be a quick repair with the mast cylinder and doing somthign like breaking off a bleeder screw or something. ******* Sometimes breaking something is inevitable. We have all done it. There is no hole I have ever seen that is too deep to climb out of. Minimize the likelihood by using the proper tools and using them only for what they were made for. Go easy....Some people have problems remembering what direction you turn normal bolts or bleeders to get them off...other people come by this naturally. Lots of people have twisted off nuts and bleeders thinking they were loosening them when indeed they were torqueing down on them. Think twice, act once carefully. Now, IMO, brakes are something that must be done correctly because your life is riding on them. That doesnt mean that you have to replace every part, every time, or go overboard. As you gain experience you will learn what is critical and what isnt.
From: hls on 24 May 2010 18:14 "m6onz5a" <corvair(a)comcast.net> wrote in message news:58eb50c8-5070-449b-975d-39a5eb6a654d(a)z17g2000vbd.googlegroups.com... On May 24, 9:06 am, stryped <stryp...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > I have a brake question. I have a 1996 chevy Silverado. If I were near enough, I would drive up and help you with this. I noticed your dad declined installation of a new master cylinder. This indicates to me that he either knew enough to think that this was unwarranted, OR, he didnt want to bite the bullet on price. If your dad is still alive, maybe he can help you. Or, if you are in East Texas, let me know where and I will see if it is convenient for me to drive there and get you through this.
From: FatterDumber& Happier Moe on 25 May 2010 01:55 hls wrote: > > "m6onz5a" <corvair(a)comcast.net> wrote in message > news:58eb50c8-5070-449b-975d-39a5eb6a654d(a)z17g2000vbd.googlegroups.com... > On May 24, 9:06 am, stryped <stryp...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: >> I have a brake question. I have a 1996 chevy Silverado. > > If I were near enough, I would drive up and help you with this. > > I noticed your dad declined installation of a new master cylinder. > This indicates to me that he either knew enough to think that this > was unwarranted, OR, he didnt want to bite the bullet on price. > > If your dad is still alive, maybe he can help you. Or, if you are > in East Texas, let me know where and I will see if it is convenient > for me to drive there and get you through this. Here ya go, The pros do it and make it look easy.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmOntj4Lazs&feature=related More of a shade tree actual world weekend way to do it, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AI8lrt1fREY Lots more videos about brakes. BTW I went through a stop sign and then through a fence once because I didn't bother to fix a leaking wheel cylinder and I was going to get around to it later but never did, no warning, brakes went right to the floor. That was back in the old days, an older car with only a single hydraulic braking system. I think it was a 62 Comet.
From: stryped on 25 May 2010 08:10
On May 24, 5:14 pm, "hls" <h...(a)nospam.nix> wrote: > "m6onz5a" <corv...(a)comcast.net> wrote in message > > news:58eb50c8-5070-449b-975d-39a5eb6a654d(a)z17g2000vbd.googlegroups.com... > On May 24, 9:06 am, stryped <stryp...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > > > I have a brake question. I have a 1996 chevy Silverado. > > If I were near enough, I would drive up and help you with this. > > I noticed your dad declined installation of a new master cylinder. > This indicates to me that he either knew enough to think that this > was unwarranted, OR, he didnt want to bite the bullet on price. > > If your dad is still alive, maybe he can help you. Or, if you are > in East Texas, let me know where and I will see if it is convenient > for me to drive there and get you through this. Thanks so much for the offer! But I am in Kentucky, not real close! |