Brake advice on a 1996 chevy Silverado 4x4
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From: Tegger on 25 May 2010 12:26 stryped <stryped1(a)yahoo.com> wrote in news:5b45f3fa-e6c8-4ead-974b-955388959aed(a)f13g2000vbm.googlegroups.com: > On May 25, 10:00�am, Tegger <inva...(a)invalid.inv> wrote: >> >> Normally, the front shoe is the "leading" shoe, and is longer than >> the rear, or "trailing" shoe. >> >> >> > > I am wondering as well if this was screwed up my Midas. So by front, > you mean the front of the vehicle? On the one side I replaced, the one > that is about 1/4 inch longer in the packet I bought went to the back. > (also the shoe the parking brake is attached to). WIll this cause > problems? SHould I switch this? My manual is not clear on this. It is > a 1996 chevy truck. The brakes will still work with the shoes in the wrong places, so it's not a disaster. But you really should get this rectified. The lead/trail shoes I've seen are usually over an inch different from front to rear, so I don't quite understand why you're only seeing 1/4". -- Tegger
From: Tegger on 25 May 2010 12:27 stryped <stryped1(a)yahoo.com> wrote in news:f9d12bb8-023d-4521-bad3-e91dc2f821b9(a)c22g2000vbb.googlegroups.com: > > I found this link with a description of my brakes: > http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Drum+Brakes&partName=Brakes&pageId=0900c1528008f6a1&subChapterTitle=Brake+Shoes&partId=0900c1528008f65f Link doesn't work. AZ just bounces me to a membership page. -- Tegger
From: hls on 25 May 2010 15:21 "Tegger" <invalid(a)invalid.inv> wrote in message news:Xns9D837EB74F3B9tegger(a)208.90.168.18... > stryped <stryped1(a)yahoo.com> wrote in > news:f9d12bb8-023d-4521-bad3-e91dc2f821b9(a)c22g2000vbb.googlegroups.com: > > >> >> I found this link with a description of my brakes: >> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Drum+Brakes&partName=Brakes&pageId=0900c1528008f6a1&subChapterTitle=Brake+Shoes&partId=0900c1528008f65f > > > Link doesn't work. AZ just bounces me to a membership page. > Tegger It worked fine for me, Tegger...
From: Tegger on 25 May 2010 17:00 "hls" <hls(a)nospam.nix> wrote in news:UoCdndsY0dPRvmHWnZ2dnUVZ_t-dnZ2d(a)giganews.com: > > "Tegger" <invalid(a)invalid.inv> wrote in message > news:Xns9D837EB74F3B9tegger(a)208.90.168.18... >> stryped <stryped1(a)yahoo.com> wrote in >> news:f9d12bb8-023d-4521-bad3-e91dc2f821b9(a)c22g2000vbb.googlegroups.com >> : >> >> >>> >>> I found this link with a description of my brakes: >>> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Drum+Brakes&partName=Brakes&pageId=0900c1528008f6a1&subChapterTitle=Brake+Shoes&partId=0900c1528008f65f >> >> >> Link doesn't work. AZ just bounces me to a membership page. > >> Tegger > > It worked fine for me, Tegger... > > Are you already an AutoZone member? -- Tegger
From: hls on 25 May 2010 18:15
"Tegger" <invalid(a)invalid.inv> wrote in message news:Xns9D83AD08F11B1tegger(a)208.90.168.18... > "hls" <hls(a)nospam.nix> wrote in >> It worked fine for me, Tegger... >> > Are you already an AutoZone member? > Tegger Por supuesto... But you can enter as well. I looked back into some reference material re drum brakes and in most cases they showed the rear brake shoe to be longer than the front one. The rear one, in these systems, is pulled into the drum surface and gives the most braking effect. This is with the anchor pin at the top of the assembly. Now, Aarcuda and I have posted some things that seem to be at odds, but really they arent. If the brake cylinder were leaking when the OP pulled off the drum, then CASE CLOSED...this means that the cylinder has to be replaced or rebuilt. IF, however, he buggered the cylinder while trying to reassemble the system, and IF it leaked a little, this is not proof that the cylinder is bad.. BUT if he leaked a little fluid due to heavyhandedness, it IS an indication that he MUST bleed the loop. If fluid can come out, air can come in. It is a darn shame that brakes, a subject that is not all that complicated, is causing this young man such concern. It is NOT that complicated, but you have to know what you are doing, and you have to do what is needed to attain a professional, or at least adequate, brake renewal. I have known Aarcuda online for a number of years. If he says it, you'd better listen. But in this one case he and I differ, because I have seen so many heavy handed amateurs, when trying to reassemble a system, screw up the wheel cylinders and cause a temporary leak. You dont want to cheat fate with brakes. I just re-did the front brakes on our 2001 GMC Sonoma. It took me about 45 minutes to replace the pads on both sides. No leaks, no problem. But for the newbie, they never know what is imperative and what is procedural. |