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From: Rob on 30 Jan 2010 13:18
On 30/12/2009 16:36, Mrcheerful wrote:
> Rob wrote:
>> On 30/12/2009 11:28, Mrcheerful wrote:
>>> Rob wrote:
>>>> On 29/12/2009 13:59, Mrcheerful wrote:
>>>>> Rob wrote:
>>>>>> On 29/12/2009 11:55, Mrcheerful wrote:
>>>>>>> Rob wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 28/12/2009 23:30, Adrian C wrote:
>>>>>>>>> Rob wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> Just wondering if there's anything particular associated with
>>>>>>>>>> this car/fault. Obviously not ;-)
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> See http://www.honestjohn.co.uk or ask on a Mazda 3 forum?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Honest John doesn't offer much beyond 'the most reliable car
>>>>>>>> ever'. Mazda3 forum is down - I would have asked there first of
>>>>>>>> course, desperate times etc ;-) The Aussie forum has 14 messages
>>>>>>>> posted in 3 years.
>>>>>>>> Are you
>>>>>>>>> comtemplating a visit to a main dealer or an independant mazda
>>>>>>>>> specialist?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Main dealer - it's got to be worth a try, on the just expired
>>>>>>>> warranty.
>>>>>>>>> Getting use of a code reader yourself might not be that
>>>>>>>>> difficult - ask around. There are some standalone units (though
>>>>>>>>> myself no experience) available in Argos, though for my Skoda
>>>>>>>>> I've got kit that runs into a laptop.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Yes, I did look at that a while ago and they're a lot cheaper
>>>>>>>> than I remember. Do you reckon this might do on my netbook:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> http://tiny.cc/pgvnh
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> (ebay link)? I've no experience of these things.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Although I've been through the usual (connections, filler cap,
>>>>>>>> fuel level) my guess is emissions - it always starts *after* two
>>>>>>>> minutes from cold and won't go out. And that can be expensive -
>>>>>>>> hence the dealer. It was only in there last week for the MOT.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks, Rob
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> do you use cheap fuel?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Well - not 'cheap' as such, but Tesco 98 RON of late.
>>>>>
>>>>> that may well be the problem.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks - I'll give it a try. Shouldn't take many runs round the
>>>> block to clear the current half tank ;-)
>>>
>>> If it seems to be running ok in general then it will be worth
>>> waiting and seeing.
>>>
>>
>> Yes, I think I'll do that. Went to the dealers for what i thought was
>> a while I wait booking, but apparently they need to keep the car for
>> at least one hour diagnostics at �70 p/hour, and wouldn't even discuss
>> warranty until anything had been diagnosed. I needed the car today, so
>> cancelled.
>>
>>> But the cheap fuel may have ruined the lambda sensor. You may be
>>> lucky, but in all seriousness using generic fuel from supermarkets
>>> is not a good idea in the long term. Modern cars do run better on
>>> 'good' stuff, drivers that are really used to their cars can tell
>>> the difference.
>>
>> I'll certainly give it a try when the tank is emptyish.
>>
>> This fuel source does seem to be an inexact science - from a quick
>> google it seems all petrol starts the same, but is differentiated at
>> the pumps by what's *added*. TBH I've never paid much attention - I
>> just put the higher octane in when I can (cos it says so in the
>> manual).
>> Anywho, thanks, I'll see how it goes. Bought a code reader off ebay as
>> well, so i'll check that when it arrives. Got to be worth a punt at
>> �30.
>> Rob
>
> absolutely worth while, the trick is to read the codes, clear the codes and
> then see what comes up after that, then the problem is to interpret what has
> actually caused the initial problem, sometimes multiple fault codes will
> come up which actually only have a single source problem. Also, when you
> know what the fault is you can sometimes decide to ignore it or delay its
> repair. One of my customers has a VW which actually needs a second lambda
> sensor, the only symptom is the light being on, it sails through the mot, so
> the customer just ignores it (the sensor was 164 quid from VW and at the
> time I priced it was not available as a generic)
>
>

Just by way of update. The light has been going on/off for the past few
weeks, and I finally got round to hooking up an OBD diagnostic thingy.
This revealed a fault code, the fault code pointed to a stuck valve, and
the valve sticks because of a weak spring exacerbated by cold. This was
the subject of a US recall. I need to check whether it can/will be done
in the UK by a dealer FOC.


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