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From: James H. on 13 Jul 2010 13:46
On Tue, 13 Jul 2010 04:34:45 -0700 (PDT), ransley wrote:
> Flywheels are balanced ...
> I hope it runs ok because drilling it changed the balance. I

Hi Ransley,

I updated the pictures to show the flywheel holes.
http://img708.imageshack.us/g/briggsandstrattonflywhe.jpg/
http://yfrog.com/jobriggsandstrattonflywhej
http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/7369/briggsandstrattonflywhe

I hope tapping them didn't change the balance as that's all that is
required. Do you think merely tapping the two holes changes the balance?

It's the proper way to remove this flywheel (I now know).

Once cleaned (and chalked), you can see in the pictures the Briggs and
Stratton flywheel says "TO REMOVE, USE WHEEL PULLER HOLES", and then it has
two big arrows pointing to the two untapped holes.

So, the instructions I was given to bang and pry were wrong, at least
they're wrong in two ways:
1. It's definitely not the manufacture's documented method
2. It's not for someone with zero experience (such as I am).

This video shows the (wrong) traditional method:
http://www.waldeneffect.org/blog/Briggs_and_Stratton_flywheel_removal/

So, I'm posting here to help the next homeowner. The proper way to remove
THIS Briggs & Stratton flywheel is:
1. Tap the two pre-drilled holes (1/4 x 20)
2. Pull up with a BS 19069 flywheel puller (available as a harmonic
balancer puller at any auto parts store)

The owners manual (page 38 & 39) show this as Sears P/N: 19069:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0505023.pdf&usg=AFQjCNH2N8YjjLyskja0QyfRWxQAo5_C_A

This is the $7.50 flywheel puller (Briggs & Stratton P/N: BS 19069):
http://farmex.now.tc/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2368
http://tewarehouse.com/7-05979
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/service_tools2.cfm

Briggs & Stratton FAQs say to use the flywheel puller:
http://engines.myfaqcenter.com/Answer.aspx?p_faqid=3422

This says it's dangerous (to the equipment) to smack the crankshaft.
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/flywheel_removal.asp

This says the same thing:
http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmflyrml.htm

This also says to use the flywheel puller:
http://www.ehow.com/way_5655790_briggs-stratton-flywheel-removal.html

So, I now know the answer but I want the next guy who runs across this
advice to get the right advice; otherwise they'll end up breaking more than
they repair just as I did by using the wrong method and the wrong tools in
the wrong way to remove a Briggs & Stratton flywheel.

Thansk everyone! I hope this helps others.
From: James H. on 13 Jul 2010 13:49
On Tue, 13 Jul 2010 07:01:08 -0700 (PDT), m6onz5a wrote:
> First check for a bent blade. If you replace the blade & it still
> shakes/wobbles you bent the crank.

Thanks for that advice. I don't see a wobble in the blade but I did order a
new blade and I'll report back whether or not the crankshaft is bent.

I'll measure the distance from the blade to the ground in the East-West
position and then in the North-South position.

If it's off, I'll buy a new crankshaft and put it in if I can. That would
be a whole new set of pictures! :)

http://img708.imageshack.us/g/briggsandstrattonflywhe.jpg/
http://yfrog.com/jobriggsandstrattonflywhej
http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/7369/briggsandstrattonflywhe.jpg
From: James H. on 13 Jul 2010 13:58
On Tue, 13 Jul 2010 08:42:54 -0700 (PDT), mkirsch1(a)rochester.rr.com wrote:
> What's important is to tell others that engine work is too complicated
> for morons

While using the brute-force method of removing a flywheel works:
http://www.waldeneffect.org/blog/Briggs_and_Stratton_flywheel_removal/

The proper way to remove this type of Briggs & Stratton flywheel is to tap
the holes and use a Briggs & Stratton BS 19069 flywheel puller (also
available as a harmonic balancer puller at any auto parts store).

You can see the words saying so right on the flywheel (once cleaned &
chalked) in these photos of the job (and destruction) I took:
http://img708.imageshack.us/g/briggsandstrattonflywhe.jpg/
http://yfrog.com/jobriggsandstrattonflywhej
http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/7369/briggsandstrattonflywhe.jpg

The Briggs & Stratton FAQ says to tap the holes with a 1/4 x 20 tap:
http://engines.myfaqcenter.com/Answer.aspx?p_faqid=3422
http://www.briggsracing.com/en/articles/tool-of-the-month/using-flywheel-puller.aspx

Other articles say to tap the holes and use the flywheel puller:
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/flywheel_removal.asp
http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmflyrml.htm
http://www.ehow.com/way_5655790_briggs-stratton-flywheel-removal.html

This is the $7.50 flywheel puller (Briggs & Stratton P/N: BS 19069):
http://farmex.now.tc/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2368
http://tewarehouse.com/7-05979
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/service_tools2.cfm

The owners manual (page 38 & 39) show this as Sears P/N: 19069:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0505023.pdf&usg=AFQjCNH2N8YjjLyskja0QyfRWxQAo5_C_A

Net result:
1. Do not pry and bang
2. You must tap and pull
From: Oren on 13 Jul 2010 14:49
On Tue, 13 Jul 2010 10:49:26 -0700, "James H."
<hall.james(a)sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>On Tue, 13 Jul 2010 07:01:08 -0700 (PDT), m6onz5a wrote:
>> First check for a bent blade. If you replace the blade & it still
>> shakes/wobbles you bent the crank.
>
>Thanks for that advice. I don't see a wobble in the blade but I did order a
>new blade and I'll report back whether or not the crankshaft is bent.
>
>I'll measure the distance from the blade to the ground in the East-West
>position and then in the North-South position.
>
>If it's off, I'll buy a new crankshaft and put it in if I can. That would
>be a whole new set of pictures! :)

Caution: Replacing the crankshaft may require the judicial use of a
pry bar and a hammer. You have been warned.

If you bent the crank, go buy a new mower for 200 bucks.
From: cuhulin on 13 Jul 2010 15:57
I have a little conical shape tool which sits on a pointy metal rod, the
rod is mounted on a round metal base.The tool is used for checking the
balance of lawn mower blades after sharpening them.If a blade is too
much out of balance, the blade can cause too much vibration and cause
the bottom oil seal to start leaking oil.Those balancer tools are
inexpensive.You can buy one at lawn mower shops and some stores such as
Lowe's and Home Depot stores.Sears and some hardware stores might have
them too.
cuhulin

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