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From: * on 15 Sep 2007 09:38 ---------- > From: Tegger <tegger(a)tegger.c0m> > Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.honda; rec.autos.tech; rec.autos.misc > Subject: Re: Doing my own brakes (97 Accord) - need some advice > Date: Friday, September 14, 2007 9:07 PM > > "*" <nospam(a)this.addy.com> wrote in > news:01c7f6ca$f811eee0$0c91c3d8(a)race: > > > > > > Some anti-seize compounds, those intended for oxygen sensors for > > example, contain glass beads. What sort of lubrication do you suppose > > glass beads provide? > > > First post doesn't seem to have "taken". Repost follows: > > The beads roll, to prevent seizure of the sensor? > > Don't confuse "seizing" with "galling." In this case we use the following descriptions...... Threads "gall" in motion. Dry threads need lubrication to keep metal from transfering from one side to the other. Threads and components "seize" while sitting still - often due to the properties of different metals reacting to heat/water/exhaust chemicals/galvanic activity/etc. Threads/components are "seized" by rust and corrosion. You need an anti-seize compound that works to prevent this - not lubricate the components. The use of anti-seize has increased in direct relationship to the increased use of aluminum components with steel fasteners, and other different metal interactions in the modern automobile.
From: jim beam on 15 Sep 2007 09:54 * wrote: > ---------- >> From: Tegger <tegger(a)tegger.c0m> >> Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.honda; rec.autos.tech; rec.autos.misc >> Subject: Re: Doing my own brakes (97 Accord) - need some advice >> Date: Friday, September 14, 2007 9:07 PM >> >> "*" <nospam(a)this.addy.com> wrote in >> news:01c7f6ca$f811eee0$0c91c3d8(a)race: >> >> >>> Some anti-seize compounds, those intended for oxygen sensors for >>> example, contain glass beads. What sort of lubrication do you suppose >>> glass beads provide? >> >> First post doesn't seem to have "taken". Repost follows: >> >> The beads roll, to prevent seizure of the sensor? >> >> > > Don't confuse "seizing" with "galling." > > In this case we use the following descriptions...... > > Threads "gall" in motion. Dry threads need lubrication to keep metal from > transfering from one side to the other. > > Threads and components "seize" while sitting still - often due to the > properties of different metals reacting to heat/water/exhaust > chemicals/galvanic activity/etc. > > Threads/components are "seized" by rust and corrosion. You need an > anti-seize compound that works to prevent this - not lubricate the > components. well, "lubrication" is separation of the working parts. in that respect, antiseize does "lubricate". and yes, corrosion is often a factor, but there's also cold welding. if two metals are in intimate contact, they can mechanically fuse [and this is not corrosion]. particularly at elevated temperatures. it's the same process that causes galling. > > The use of anti-seize has increased in direct relationship to the increased > use of aluminum components with steel fasteners, and other different metal > interactions in the modern automobile. it's more that use has increased in proportion to its availability. you're right that dissimilar metals can corrode and seize spectacularly, [as can steel on steel] but antiseize doesn't always stop that. and aluminum/steel combinations have been used since the dawn of automotive systems.
From: Grumpy AuContraire on 16 Sep 2007 12:31 Hachiroku ハチロク wrote: > On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 17:37:43 +0000, Tegger wrote: > > >>>On drum brakes, you're diassembling a cheap set of relines, and >>>replacing them with a set of brand-new shoes. Which shoe goes towards >>>the front? >> >> >> >>The short shoe, assuming the brakes have one leading shoe and one trailing >>shoe. > > > > On the one car I have with drum rears, they're both the same size!!! > > > What do I do?!?! What do I do?!?! > > IF the shoes have different lengths, one is primary and the other secondary and oddly, the secondary should be the longer of the two and is on the rear facing side of the backing plate... JT
From: Grumpy AuContraire on 16 Sep 2007 12:40 Tegger wrote: > "*" <nospam(a)this.addy.com> wrote in > news:01c7f6ca$f811eee0$0c91c3d8(a)race: snip > > >>For drum brake shoe pads, there is "Brake Lube" - which is, simply, >>white lithium grease. >> > > > > That's what I use in electrical connectors, which is what the factory used. > I did not know you could use it for where the shoes contact the backing > plate. > Yep, been using "cup grease" for contact points for conventional brakes since... well, er.. forever! <G> JT
From: smallg on 16 Sep 2007 17:52
<techman41973(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1189291496.188534.25890(a)19g2000hsx.googlegroups.com... >I am a handy guy (engineering background) and I do quite a bit of my > own work on my car (oil changes, electrical repairs, etc). I am > considering doing my own brake work. With the miles I put on my car > each year, I am servicing both front and rear brakes annually at a > cost of close to $800. Is this just for pads? Sounds w-a-y high. >I know that servicing brakes on my own are > risky, as my safety can be compromised. Not really. I've been doing my own brake work on my cars (including my BMW) for years. Disk brake service is pretty easy, at least on the cars I've had. It takes some muscle at times, and you'll get plenty dirty, but it's not that difficult or complicated. >I am looking to hear from > other "amateurs" who decided to do their own brakes and the problems > they have encountered. Any tips and recommendations to quickly get up > to speed would be helpfull. I have my service manual to my 97 Accord. > Are their classes that any of you took to learn this from a > professional? I know that rotors often need to be resurfaced > professionally. Nope, don't fall for that one. I've never in my life had a rotor turned. If they get too bad, I just replace the rotors with new ones. I replace the rotors on my BMW with every other pad change. My Japanese rotors last a good deal longer. >Where do you guys go for that and how much does it > usually cost? For just pads for all four wheels, maybe $80? I don't remember, it's been a while (DON'T go to the dealership for these.) >Are their videos that anyone would recommend? Probably won't need any videos. A Haynes or Bentleys manual might be a good idea, but really, I'd bet those Honda brakes are pretty straightforward and you could do it just eyeballing the situation. -- ----------------- Jay McKenzie http://home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-wstviews |