From: * on

----------
> From: Tegger <tegger(a)tegger.c0m>
> Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.honda; rec.autos.tech; rec.autos.misc
> Subject: Re: Doing my own brakes (97 Accord) - need some advice
> Date: Friday, September 14, 2007 9:07 PM
>
> "*" <nospam(a)this.addy.com> wrote in
> news:01c7f6ca$f811eee0$0c91c3d8(a)race:
>
>
> >
> > Some anti-seize compounds, those intended for oxygen sensors for
> > example, contain glass beads. What sort of lubrication do you suppose
> > glass beads provide?
>
>
> First post doesn't seem to have "taken". Repost follows:
>
> The beads roll, to prevent seizure of the sensor?
>
>

Don't confuse "seizing" with "galling."

In this case we use the following descriptions......

Threads "gall" in motion. Dry threads need lubrication to keep metal from
transfering from one side to the other.

Threads and components "seize" while sitting still - often due to the
properties of different metals reacting to heat/water/exhaust
chemicals/galvanic activity/etc.

Threads/components are "seized" by rust and corrosion. You need an
anti-seize compound that works to prevent this - not lubricate the
components.

The use of anti-seize has increased in direct relationship to the increased
use of aluminum components with steel fasteners, and other different metal
interactions in the modern automobile.









From: jim beam on
* wrote:
> ----------
>> From: Tegger <tegger(a)tegger.c0m>
>> Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.honda; rec.autos.tech; rec.autos.misc
>> Subject: Re: Doing my own brakes (97 Accord) - need some advice
>> Date: Friday, September 14, 2007 9:07 PM
>>
>> "*" <nospam(a)this.addy.com> wrote in
>> news:01c7f6ca$f811eee0$0c91c3d8(a)race:
>>
>>
>>> Some anti-seize compounds, those intended for oxygen sensors for
>>> example, contain glass beads. What sort of lubrication do you suppose
>>> glass beads provide?
>>
>> First post doesn't seem to have "taken". Repost follows:
>>
>> The beads roll, to prevent seizure of the sensor?
>>
>>
>
> Don't confuse "seizing" with "galling."
>
> In this case we use the following descriptions......
>
> Threads "gall" in motion. Dry threads need lubrication to keep metal from
> transfering from one side to the other.
>
> Threads and components "seize" while sitting still - often due to the
> properties of different metals reacting to heat/water/exhaust
> chemicals/galvanic activity/etc.
>
> Threads/components are "seized" by rust and corrosion. You need an
> anti-seize compound that works to prevent this - not lubricate the
> components.

well, "lubrication" is separation of the working parts. in that
respect, antiseize does "lubricate". and yes, corrosion is often a
factor, but there's also cold welding. if two metals are in intimate
contact, they can mechanically fuse [and this is not corrosion].
particularly at elevated temperatures. it's the same process that
causes galling.

>
> The use of anti-seize has increased in direct relationship to the increased
> use of aluminum components with steel fasteners, and other different metal
> interactions in the modern automobile.

it's more that use has increased in proportion to its availability.
you're right that dissimilar metals can corrode and seize spectacularly,
[as can steel on steel] but antiseize doesn't always stop that. and
aluminum/steel combinations have been used since the dawn of automotive
systems.
From: Grumpy AuContraire on


Hachiroku ハチロク wrote:

> On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 17:37:43 +0000, Tegger wrote:
>
>
>>>On drum brakes, you're diassembling a cheap set of relines, and
>>>replacing them with a set of brand-new shoes. Which shoe goes towards
>>>the front?
>>
>>
>>
>>The short shoe, assuming the brakes have one leading shoe and one trailing
>>shoe.
>
>
>
> On the one car I have with drum rears, they're both the same size!!!
>
>
> What do I do?!?! What do I do?!?!
>
>

IF the shoes have different lengths, one is primary and the other
secondary and oddly, the secondary should be the longer of the two and
is on the rear facing side of the backing plate...

JT


From: Grumpy AuContraire on


Tegger wrote:

> "*" <nospam(a)this.addy.com> wrote in
> news:01c7f6ca$f811eee0$0c91c3d8(a)race:



snip


>
>
>>For drum brake shoe pads, there is "Brake Lube" - which is, simply,
>>white lithium grease.
>>
>
>
>
> That's what I use in electrical connectors, which is what the factory used.
> I did not know you could use it for where the shoes contact the backing
> plate.
>


Yep, been using "cup grease" for contact points for conventional brakes
since... well, er.. forever!

<G>

JT


From: smallg on
<techman41973(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1189291496.188534.25890(a)19g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...
>I am a handy guy (engineering background) and I do quite a bit of my
> own work on my car (oil changes, electrical repairs, etc). I am
> considering doing my own brake work. With the miles I put on my car
> each year, I am servicing both front and rear brakes annually at a
> cost of close to $800.

Is this just for pads? Sounds w-a-y high.

>I know that servicing brakes on my own are
> risky, as my safety can be compromised.

Not really. I've been doing my own brake work on my cars (including
my BMW) for years. Disk brake service is pretty easy, at least on
the cars I've had. It takes some muscle at times, and you'll get
plenty dirty, but it's not that difficult or complicated.

>I am looking to hear from
> other "amateurs" who decided to do their own brakes and the problems
> they have encountered. Any tips and recommendations to quickly get up
> to speed would be helpfull. I have my service manual to my 97 Accord.
> Are their classes that any of you took to learn this from a
> professional? I know that rotors often need to be resurfaced
> professionally.

Nope, don't fall for that one. I've never in my life had a rotor turned.
If they get too bad, I just replace the rotors with new ones. I replace
the rotors on my BMW with every other pad change. My Japanese
rotors last a good deal longer.

>Where do you guys go for that and how much does it
> usually cost?

For just pads for all four wheels, maybe $80? I don't remember,
it's been a while (DON'T go to the dealership for these.)

>Are their videos that anyone would recommend?

Probably won't need any videos. A Haynes or Bentleys
manual might be a good idea, but really, I'd bet those
Honda brakes are pretty straightforward and you could
do it just eyeballing the situation.
--
-----------------
Jay McKenzie
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-wstviews