From: Hachiroku ハチロク on
On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 17:52:45 -0400, smallg wrote:

> <techman41973(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1189291496.188534.25890(a)19g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...
>>I am a handy guy (engineering background) and I do quite a bit of my
>> own work on my car (oil changes, electrical repairs, etc). I am
>> considering doing my own brake work. With the miles I put on my car each
>> year, I am servicing both front and rear brakes annually at a cost of
>> close to $800.
>
> Is this just for pads? Sounds w-a-y high.
>
>>I know that servicing brakes on my own are
>> risky, as my safety can be compromised.
>
> Not really. I've been doing my own brake work on my cars (including my
> BMW) for years. Disk brake service is pretty easy, at least on the cars
> I've had. It takes some muscle at times, and you'll get plenty dirty,
> but it's not that difficult or complicated.


oh, no! Don't let * see this post! He'll tell you how you've been doing it
wrong for years, and endangering everybody including yourself due to
'invisible' things only he seems to be able to see...

Now, in all seriousness, we're talking brakes on a car here, not on the
landing gear of a Space Shuttle. Pads, a rotor, a caliper is pretty much
it. No advanced degree in Aerospace engineering or a Mensa IQ required.

To the OP: pick up a manual and pre-read it before attempting. Even if you
decide not to do the job, it helps you understand your car better.

Also, look here:

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0d/1b/f1/0900823d800d1bf1/repairInfoPages.htm

this is for a 1995 Accord, but you can see it's not too hard to comprehend.

Of course, I think * managed to scare the OP into giving up anyway...

From: * on


Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote in article <WciHi.2908$Ap2.265(a)trndny05>...
>
> To the OP: pick up a manual and pre-read it before attempting.


How does one "pre-read" something?

You either read it or you don't!

Hachiroku San blows the English language, again!

From: Scott Dorsey on
Tegger <tegger(a)tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>
>> Some anti-seize compounds, those intended for oxygen sensors for
>> example, contain glass beads. What sort of lubrication do you suppose
>> glass beads provide?
>
>
>First post doesn't seem to have "taken". Repost follows:
>
>The beads roll, to prevent seizure of the sensor?

Yes, it's sort of a kind of lubricant.

Another example of that sort of macrolubrication is bentonite grease,
which is made with a kind of clay that has big flat pieces that slide
easily across one another.

>> For drum brake shoe pads, there is "Brake Lube" - which is, simply,
>> white lithium grease.
>
>That's what I use in electrical connectors, which is what the factory used.
>I did not know you could use it for where the shoes contact the backing
>plate.

I tend to suspect silicone dielectric grease is more effective on
connectors, but the lithium grease is cheaper and should last twenty or
thirty years.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
From: Tegger on
"*" <nospam(a)this.addy.com> wrote in
news:01c7f79c$e6bf3d00$ce90c3d8(a)race:

>
> ----------
>> From: Tegger <tegger(a)tegger.c0m>
>> Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.honda; rec.autos.tech; rec.autos.misc
>> Subject: Re: Doing my own brakes (97 Accord) - need some advice
>> Date: Friday, September 14, 2007 9:07 PM
>>
>> "*" <nospam(a)this.addy.com> wrote in
>> news:01c7f6ca$f811eee0$0c91c3d8(a)race:
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Some anti-seize compounds, those intended for oxygen sensors for
>> > example, contain glass beads. What sort of lubrication do you
>> > suppose glass beads provide?
>>
>>
>> First post doesn't seem to have "taken". Repost follows:
>>
>> The beads roll, to prevent seizure of the sensor?
>>
>>
>
> Don't confuse "seizing" with "galling."
>
> In this case we use the following descriptions......
>
> Threads "gall" in motion. Dry threads need lubrication to keep metal
> from transfering from one side to the other.



It has been my impression that galling was a phenomenon most commonly
experienced between metals that were close in hardness. In other words, if
one metal was significantly softer than the other, galling wouldn't occur
for the reason that the softer metal would simply smear instead of balling
up.



>
> Threads and components "seize" while sitting still - often due to the
> properties of different metals reacting to heat/water/exhaust
> chemicals/galvanic activity/etc.



And simple surface-texture embedment. From what I've been told by an
engineer at BoltScience, embedment is the primary reason that loosening
torque can be several times what's applied while tightening.



>
> Threads/components are "seized" by rust and corrosion. You need an
> anti-seize compound that works to prevent this - not lubricate the
> components.



Oils are not compatible with water. If oil is present, water cannot
generally react with the metal. I have found that just about any kind of
oily substance will keep rust off the threads, provided it does not wash
away.

I have found (after a lifetime of living in the Rust Belt) that rust rarely
penetrates more than one turn of thread. It's corrosion of the head to its
mating surface that makes such bolts hard to remove. If the bolt goes into
a through hole, the end thread of the bolt will seize at its bottom turn,
which is why these often need to be drilled out.



>
> The use of anti-seize has increased in direct relationship to the
> increased use of aluminum components with steel fasteners, and other
> different metal interactions in the modern automobile.
>
>


I wonder why my car has absolutely no substances applied to any of its
fasteners that go into aluminum holes? I guess the bolt itself may have a
plating or wash that consists of an anti-seize?
Toyota's OEM spark plugs that were intended for 100K mile intervals used to
be cadmium plated, to prevent seizure. I'm told they've replaced the
cadmium with something else that's supposed to be more "environment
friendly".

--
Tegger

From: Grumpy AuContraire on


Tegger wrote:

> "*" <nospam(a)this.addy.com> wrote in
> news:01c7f79c$e6bf3d00$ce90c3d8(a)race:
>
>
>>----------
>>
>>>From: Tegger <tegger(a)tegger.c0m>
>>>Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.honda; rec.autos.tech; rec.autos.misc
>>>Subject: Re: Doing my own brakes (97 Accord) - need some advice
>>>Date: Friday, September 14, 2007 9:07 PM
>>>
>>>"*" <nospam(a)this.addy.com> wrote in
>>>news:01c7f6ca$f811eee0$0c91c3d8(a)race:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Some anti-seize compounds, those intended for oxygen sensors for
>>>>example, contain glass beads. What sort of lubrication do you
>>>>suppose glass beads provide?
>>>
>>>
>>>First post doesn't seem to have "taken". Repost follows:
>>>
>>>The beads roll, to prevent seizure of the sensor?
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Don't confuse "seizing" with "galling."
>>
>>In this case we use the following descriptions......
>>
>>Threads "gall" in motion. Dry threads need lubrication to keep metal
>>from transfering from one side to the other.
>
>
>
>
> It has been my impression that galling was a phenomenon most commonly
> experienced between metals that were close in hardness. In other words, if
> one metal was significantly softer than the other, galling wouldn't occur
> for the reason that the softer metal would simply smear instead of balling
> up.
>
>

The most flagrant example of galling, (in my experience), was with large
stainless steel bolts/nuts in the semiconductor equipment mfg biz.

Since such assembly operations took place in clean room conditions, use
of grease, oil etc. was not an option. In fact, the only possibility wa
the use of IPA, (isopropanol), which worked to reach the required torque
spec...

JT

(No longer dons bunny suits)