From: moray on

"Chris Whelan" <cawhelan(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:b3Uei.2168$H61.1489(a)newsfe4-win.ntli.net...
> moray wrote:
>
> [...]
>>
>> Copperslip can be used on pad retaining pins, but should not be used on
>> caliper slides.
>
> Any reason for that, moray?

Retaining pins are normally steel, and are a pretty loose fit on the pads,
and biggest issue is them rusting so they don't come out easy. If they rust
where they pass through the pad, it's not a big deal, as for the rust to get
thick enough for the pads to seize onto them, chances are the pads
themselves have badly rusted and the linings most likely about to fall off.
Only thing the copper grease does, is (hopefully) make them come out a bit
easier next time you want to take the pads out.

Caliper slides on the other hand, are highly polished items, and can be made
from chromed steel, stainless steel, or just blackened steel, and have
relatively tight tolerances (compared with retaining pins) on the bore they
pass through. A seized or sticky caliper slide can cause a whole host of
problems (binding brakes, excess pedal travel, uneven pad wear), which is
why using the right grease (or no grease as the case may be), is more
critical.


From: Guy King on
The message <f5h46c$j0q$1$8300dec7(a)news.demon.co.uk>
from "moray" <mtb_hyphen_rules(a)hotmail.co.uk> contains these words:

> Caliper slides on the other hand, are highly polished items, and can
> be made
> from chromed steel, stainless steel, or just blackened steel, and have
> relatively tight tolerances (compared with retaining pins) on the bore they
> pass through.

That's the pin sort. For them I'd stick with the proper grease, which
all the instructions I've seem specify silicone grease.
The cruder sort where the pad grinds along a barely machined ledge on
the caliper seem to work better for longer with copper grease, in my
experience.

--
Skipweasel
We have always been at war with Iran. [George Orwell - almost]
From: moray on

"Guy King" <guy.king(a)zetnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3130303034323739467C276677(a)zetnet.co.uk...
> The message <f5h46c$j0q$1$8300dec7(a)news.demon.co.uk>
> from "moray" <mtb_hyphen_rules(a)hotmail.co.uk> contains these words:
>
>> Caliper slides on the other hand, are highly polished items, and can
>> be made
>> from chromed steel, stainless steel, or just blackened steel, and have
>> relatively tight tolerances (compared with retaining pins) on the bore
>> they
>> pass through.
>
> That's the pin sort. For them I'd stick with the proper grease, which
> all the instructions I've seem specify silicone grease.

It depends on if they're sealed or not. Sealed ones, are generally not as
corrosion resistant as the unsealed ones, so silcon grease is a must to help
ward of corrosion. Unsealed ones, are normally chromed or stainless, and
grease doesn't make much difference to them. Giving them a good clean when
you've got them stripped is the best bet, although a smear of grease in the
caliper housing does help.

> The cruder sort where the pad grinds along a barely machined ledge on
> the caliper seem to work better for longer with copper grease, in my
> experience.

They're not what get's classed as caliper slides. That's just where the
brake pads sit on/in the caliper.
Best option is to strip and clean the brakes periodically. A coating of
grease on the contact points will help prevent the rust from swelling for a
short period, but given the exposed nature of most calipers, any grease will
get washed of pretty quickly in the wet.


From: Redwood on
"Guy King" <guy.king(a)zetnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3130303034323739467C276677(a)zetnet.co.uk...
> The message <f5h46c$j0q$1$8300dec7(a)news.demon.co.uk>
> from "moray" <mtb_hyphen_rules(a)hotmail.co.uk> contains these words:
>
>> Caliper slides on the other hand, are highly polished items, and can
>> be made
>> from chromed steel, stainless steel, or just blackened steel, and have
>> relatively tight tolerances (compared with retaining pins) on the bore
>> they
>> pass through.
>
> That's the pin sort. For them I'd stick with the proper grease, which
> all the instructions I've seem specify silicone grease.
> The cruder sort where the pad grinds along a barely machined ledge on
> the caliper seem to work better for longer with copper grease, in my
> experience.

Thanks for the replies. Finally had a dry day to fit new pads & rotors and
jobs a good 'un. Yes it was the shiny chrome steel calliper slides that I
wasn't sure which grease to use. I used a smear of silicone grease on them
and copper slip on the back of the pads and where they slide on the calliper
bracket. When pushing the piston back in I found it much easier to crack
open the bleed nip and it goes back very easy with thumb pressure.