From: Hachiroku ハチロク on
On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 12:39:11 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

> "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message
> news:i2ere9$caf$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>
>> "Clive" <clive(a)yewbank.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:XkaPZWE1osSMFwaA(a)yewbank.demon.co.uk...
>>> In message <i2drad$pc7$1(a)news.eternal-september.org>, Ray O
>>> <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> writes
>>>>"Scott Dorsey" <kludge(a)panix.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:i2c42f$2ga$1(a)panix2.panix.com...
>>>>> Ray O <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote:
>>>>>>I second the carbon buildup on the valves. Hook up a vacuum gauge, and
>>>>>>when
>>>>>>the problem is occurring, see if vacuum drops. If the Techron doesn't
>>>>>>work,
>>>>>>find a shop with Motor-Vac or that has a way to do the walnut shell
>>>>>>blast.
>>>>> The original poster mentioned using high-test gasoline in it just
>>>>> because
>>>>> it was cheap right now.
>>>>> If you run enough high-test in an engine designed with fairly low
>>>>> compression,
>>>>> you're apt to wind up with carbon deposits as a result.
>>>>> --scott
>>>>Good point. Use what the owner's manual says to use.
>>> Over here, we only get one Petrol and that's about 95 RON. De-coking,
>>> or you might call it decarbonising is now very rare with today's modern
>>> fuels, 50 years ago a de-coke might have been performed ever 20k or so
>>> but with the detergents now in fuel a good blast down the motorway
>>> normally cleans out any muck that might have accumulated during light
>>> start stop, idling type of driving.
>>> --
>>> Clive
>>>
>>
>> I have not run across valves with deposits in a long time - I suppose
>> that the fuel additives actually work!
>> --
>>
>> Ray O
>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>
>
> I wish there was an additive to make a catalytic converter stop burning
> money. My check engine light came on 6 weeks ago, due to error code P0420.
> Inspection doesn't come around until November, and there are no other
> symptoms, not even a change in mpg, so I'm putting off the repair until I
> feel delighted to spend the money. Ha. Meanwhile, as a tease, the light went
> off for a week, then on again.
>
> 83k miles, 3k out of warranty, and Toyota (both the dealer and their "help"
> line) says "oh well have a nice day".

Ask for escalation. Ask to speak to a supervisor or manager. If you have
had more than one Toyota, so much the better.


This used to work in the "good old days" when Toyota was TRYING to be #1,
and also during better economic times...

They replaced my rear diff at 14,000 miles on a 12,000 mile warraty, and I
remember the factory rep came in and told them to do it.

Ray, where were you in 1975?



From: JoeSpareBedroom on
"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno(a)e86.GTS> wrote in message
news:4c4b35b8$0$74748$afc38c87(a)read01.usenet4all.se...
> On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 12:39:11 -0400, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
>
>> "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message
>> news:i2ere9$caf$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>>
>>> "Clive" <clive(a)yewbank.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
>>> news:XkaPZWE1osSMFwaA(a)yewbank.demon.co.uk...
>>>> In message <i2drad$pc7$1(a)news.eternal-september.org>, Ray O
>>>> <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> writes
>>>>>"Scott Dorsey" <kludge(a)panix.com> wrote in message
>>>>>news:i2c42f$2ga$1(a)panix2.panix.com...
>>>>>> Ray O <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>I second the carbon buildup on the valves. Hook up a vacuum gauge,
>>>>>>>and
>>>>>>>when
>>>>>>>the problem is occurring, see if vacuum drops. If the Techron
>>>>>>>doesn't
>>>>>>>work,
>>>>>>>find a shop with Motor-Vac or that has a way to do the walnut shell
>>>>>>>blast.
>>>>>> The original poster mentioned using high-test gasoline in it just
>>>>>> because
>>>>>> it was cheap right now.
>>>>>> If you run enough high-test in an engine designed with fairly low
>>>>>> compression,
>>>>>> you're apt to wind up with carbon deposits as a result.
>>>>>> --scott
>>>>>Good point. Use what the owner's manual says to use.
>>>> Over here, we only get one Petrol and that's about 95 RON. De-coking,
>>>> or you might call it decarbonising is now very rare with today's modern
>>>> fuels, 50 years ago a de-coke might have been performed ever 20k or so
>>>> but with the detergents now in fuel a good blast down the motorway
>>>> normally cleans out any muck that might have accumulated during light
>>>> start stop, idling type of driving.
>>>> --
>>>> Clive
>>>>
>>>
>>> I have not run across valves with deposits in a long time - I suppose
>>> that the fuel additives actually work!
>>> --
>>>
>>> Ray O
>>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>>
>>
>> I wish there was an additive to make a catalytic converter stop burning
>> money. My check engine light came on 6 weeks ago, due to error code
>> P0420.
>> Inspection doesn't come around until November, and there are no other
>> symptoms, not even a change in mpg, so I'm putting off the repair until I
>> feel delighted to spend the money. Ha. Meanwhile, as a tease, the light
>> went
>> off for a week, then on again.
>>
>> 83k miles, 3k out of warranty, and Toyota (both the dealer and their
>> "help"
>> line) says "oh well have a nice day".
>
> Ask for escalation. Ask to speak to a supervisor or manager. If you have
> had more than one Toyota, so much the better.


That would mean spending ANOTHER 90 minutes waiting to speak to someone on
the phone. At some point, I'd have to jack up my cell plan to the next tier.

Toyota is understaffed and hiding behind its phone system.

Now there's a "campaign" (not a recall) which involves the application of
some kind of rust preventitive on the frame so the spare doesn't fall off
(02 Tacoma). Probably a half a can of Rustoleum and some spit. I've come to
the conclusion that Toyota is just kidding around, like the American
manufacturers were in the 1970s.


From: Scott Dorsey on
JoeSpareBedroom <newstrash(a)frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
>I wish there was an additive to make a catalytic converter stop burning
>money. My check engine light came on 6 weeks ago, due to error code P0420.
>Inspection doesn't come around until November, and there are no other
>symptoms, not even a change in mpg, so I'm putting off the repair until I
>feel delighted to spend the money. Ha. Meanwhile, as a tease, the light went
>off for a week, then on again.

What makes you think the problem is actually the cat?

I'd start checking the downstream oxygen sensor, and just as importantly
the wiring to that sensor. A damaged connector or wire is not an expensive
proposition.

>83k miles, 3k out of warranty, and Toyota (both the dealer and their "help"
>line) says "oh well have a nice day".

Is that 83k of highway miles or stop and go miles?
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
From: JoeSpareBedroom on
"Scott Dorsey" <kludge(a)panix.com> wrote in message
news:i2fm24$sb1$1(a)panix2.panix.com...
> JoeSpareBedroom <newstrash(a)frontiernet.net> wrote:
>>
>>I wish there was an additive to make a catalytic converter stop burning
>>money. My check engine light came on 6 weeks ago, due to error code P0420.
>>Inspection doesn't come around until November, and there are no other
>>symptoms, not even a change in mpg, so I'm putting off the repair until I
>>feel delighted to spend the money. Ha. Meanwhile, as a tease, the light
>>went
>>off for a week, then on again.
>
> What makes you think the problem is actually the cat?
>
> I'd start checking the downstream oxygen sensor, and just as importantly
> the wiring to that sensor. A damaged connector or wire is not an
> expensive
> proposition.
>

My mechanic based his first guess on probability & past experience. Since
he's suggesting I go elsewhere for the work (better deal), he stands to make
nothing with his guess. He did mention the oxygen sensor as a possibility,
though.



>>83k miles, 3k out of warranty, and Toyota (both the dealer and their
>>"help"
>>line) says "oh well have a nice day".
>
> Is that 83k of highway miles or stop and go miles?
> --scott


About half & half.


From: Hachiroku ハチロク on
On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 02:22:36 +0000, Tegger wrote:

> =?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= <Trueno(a)e86.GTS>
> wrote in news:4c48df07$0$74748$afc38c87(a)read01.usenet4all.se:
>
>> The car in this case is a 1989 Mazda 626. It was running great until
>> the day before yesterday, and turned 190,000 miles last week.
>>
>> AT highway speeds it hesitates only a little bit, unless you start
>> going up a hill, then it starts sputtering. Normal around town
>> driving, not so much, unless you're going up a hill in third gear.
>>
>> Usually occurs around 3,000 to 3,500 RPM. Once you get about 3,500 it
>> smooths out unless going up a hill.
>
>
>
> Got EGR? Checked that"?

Hmmmm..ya know, I had a 1990 Nissan 240SX. It had two connectors on the
transmission. One for the reverse lights, and one for....

One of my friends said, You know your backup lights were on most of the
way here?

So, I reversed them. After a long, long time searching, I found that
Japanese cars (at least Nissans and Mazdas) have a connector to a switch
to 5th gear that cuts off the EGR when you're in 5th gear.

Soooooo, being the clever and inventive person that I am, I jumpered it so
it ALWAYS thinks it's in 5th gear, and the EGR is always off...

Hey, I'm getting 30-32 MPG overall...