From: Clocky on
XR8 Sprintless wrote:
> On 19/05/2010 11:10 PM, Milton wrote:
>> That's a fair description XR8. The colour of the fluid is usually
>> blue and if the exhaust gas is present it will change to yellow. It
>> should only be done at normal operating temperatures. I take it the
>> colour changed to yellow and the car dealer is claiming inaccuracy
>> by the radiator guy?
>> It will only change to yellow if the exhaust gasses are present. This
>> could indicate a stuffed head gasket or a warped head or both. If
>> this is the case you will also need to find out what caused the
>> overheating or it will just happen again.
> I'm not sure that it is leaking fluid at the moment as there was a
> leak from the 'o' ring on the heater pipe that connects to the lower
> thermostat assembly, however the car is not starting properly in the
> mornings with it failing to start first time each time with lots of
> coughing and spluttering and then starting easily the next time you
> turn the key. This made me think that it was possibly a busted head
> gasket and I took it to the radiator shop as that was where I was
> advised to go to have the test done.
> In speaking to my usual mechanic when I left it there today, he
> advised that it could be blocked injectors or a faulty injector
> causing the problem although my description does sound like a head
> gasket issue.

It could also be the fuel is draining back to the tank because of a leaking
anti-drain back valve leaving the lines empty. That is easy to check though,
turn the ignition on and listen for the fuel pump priming up. When it
completes (after a few seconds), try cranking the vehicle and see if it
starts right away.
Also, make sure the fuel pump is actually priming up, if you can't hear it
check the fuel pump relay. You might think that a faulty fuel pump relay
would prevent the car from running but this may not be the case if a backup
circuit is employed (ie one that runs off the oil pressure switch circuit).

The car is not overheating although if you give it a
> bootfull in park there are drops of water coming from the exhaust.

Remember that for every litre of fuel that is burned a litre of water is
produced so that doesn't indicate much in itself.
If the coolant is being burnt though, you will usually get a smell
associated with that and not so much water as steam.

> My mechanic is putting it under pressure overnight and will check the
> cylinders in the morning for water. Hopefully none and it is a problem
> with the injectors however if it is the head gasket then it will have
> to be fixed under statutory warranty. I am keeping a detailed log of
> my dealings with the dealer at the moment as well.

Your best option. Pressure test overnight, pull the plugs and crank it over
with a length of cardboard placed over the plug holes.
A mist of water will soon confirm a head gasket problem.

Hope this helps, certainly more information a radiator "specialist" could
possible come up with ;-)

From: Noddy on

"XR8 Sprintless" <xr8_sprint(a)> wrote in message

> The engine is very clean having been detailed by the dealer.

Okay, then if you've got access to compressed air give all the electrical
connectors a good blow out and make sure there's no water shorting, and push
them all home to make sure they're seated properly.

It may seem far fetched, but some connectors can hold water for *ages*.

> Hopefully I should know the outcome tomorrow once my mechanic has checked
> it.

Fingers crossed.


From: Clocky on
Noddy wrote:
> "Clocky" <notgonn(a)> wrote in message
> news:4bf3dccd$0$27790$c3e8da3(a)
>> TK headcheck. Are you serious?
> Indeed I am.
> I've never heard of the term "TK test" before. I've only ever known
> the procedure as a combustion gas test.

That's amazing. As I have mentioned elsewhere, in WA at least, the"TK" test
is the combustion gas test.

From: atec7 7 ""atec77" on
XR8 Sprintless wrote:
> On 20/05/2010 12:01 AM, Noddy wrote:
>> become visible. The best way to check is from under the car looking up at
>> the base of the head right under the manifold with a torch. If you see
>> white
>> coloured liquid stains on the side of the block in this area you've got
>> problems.
> Thanks for that, I will check it once I get it back.
>> However, this is pretty unlikely to be the cause of your starting
>> problems
>> and without seeing the car first hand it's hard to know exactly what it
>> would be. Coil packs on the things are often flakey and will display the
>> symptoms you've described at times, but it could also be a fuel pressure
>> issue with a marginal pump. I'd also check to make sure the front of the
>> engine isn't covered with a shitload of grease& oil which can interfere
>> with the crank position sensor.
> The engine is very clean having been detailed by the dealer.
> Hopefully I should know the outcome tomorrow once my mechanic has
> checked it.

If it isn't water or head gsk I would be looking at the fuel reg on the
end of the injection manifold might be leaking when cold
clamping the return line will tell you as I have had a couple which
leaked a little until things built up and then the motor ran ok , very
difficult to work out the first time
From: Clocky on
Milton wrote:
> "Noddy" <me(a)> wrote in message
> news:4bf3d22e$0$89671$c30e37c6(a)
>> "XR8 Sprintless" <xr8_sprint(a)> wrote in message
>> news:4bf3c6a9$0$27824$c3e8da3(a)
>>> Okay got the car back today with the claim that there is nothing
>>> wrong with it other than possibly dirty injectors causing it not to
>>> start in the morning. They claim the TK test performed by the
>>> radiator specialist is inaccurate. Anyone care to comment.
>> What's a "TK" test?
>> --
>> Regards,
>> Noddy.
> HUH? You're joking aren't you? LOL. Here is a prime example of why
> you need to go to a radiator specialist and not any basic mechanic.

There is no such thing as a radiator specialist, though I'm sure there are
plenty that are wannabe but unqualified mechanics pretending to be capable
of diagnosing head problems working in radiator swap shops.