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From: Andy Dingley on 2 Apr 2007 08:50
On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman <n...(a)no-email.com> wrote:
> On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

It's no worse than on anything else.

Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most uk.d-i-
y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a West
Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff isn't a
bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A real low-
viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of ready-filled tube
epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.

JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
for Araldite vs. West System.

Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
things like creep under load are improved by the filler.



From: Dave on 2 Apr 2007 16:16
Dave Fawthrop wrote:
> On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman <no(a)no-email.com> wrote:
>
> |!On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.
> |!
> |!If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
> |!sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
> |!coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?
> |!
> |!I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
> |!4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
> |!stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.
> |!
> |!I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
> |!metal?
>
> Yes! But!
> Everything needs to be *real* flat, *real* smooth, and *real* clean, and
> not have release agent on it, also both bits need to be rigid. We used to
> do it for aircraft components. So if you can do the first two bits within a
> few thou (you can measure to 1/10mm can't you), degrease the aluminium and
> roughen up the plastic with fine emery and degrease, to get rid any release
> agent, get some *new* araldite, then it *may* work, otherwise give up the
> idea of araldite.

But wouldn't the aluminium be anodised and epoxy primered first? That's
the way that I remember in the aerospace industry. The paint had a much
higher bond to the metal than the 'Hysol'* had to the paint and the
bond was very impressive.


*Hysol is a variant of Araldite and much better all round. It could be
used as an adhesive when mixed in the two parts, or used as a liquid
shim, when various fillers were added, that removed the need for
accurate flatness / surface conformity.

Dave
From: Chappers on 3 Apr 2007 08:23
Use Loctite Multibond 330, it's a two part aerosol and tube glue.
Absolutely fantastic for most materials with a fast set time and will even
work on slightly greasy surfaces. I've used it on aircraft bits in the
past.

From: PC Paul on 3 Apr 2007 15:02
Andy Dingley wrote:
> On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman <n...(a)no-email.com> wrote:
>> On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
>> metal.
>
> It's no worse than on anything else.
>
> Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
> except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most
> uk.d-i- y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a
> West Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff
> isn't a bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A
> real low- viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of
> ready-filled tube epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.
>
> JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
> for Araldite vs. West System.
>
> Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
> uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
> things like creep under load are improved by the filler.

I've got an aluminium bike frame with a small hole worn in it, when it was
ridden with a tyre rubbing the frame.. (damn kids).

The wear is an elliptical cone about 10x6mm with a 2mm hole in the middle,
on a rear stay of about 18mm diameter. Any guesses as to whether JBWeld
would patch it up firmly enough for mucking about use (no World Cup
Downhills planned...) or should I just scrap the frame?




From: The Natural Philosopher on 4 Apr 2007 05:07
PC Paul wrote:
> Andy Dingley wrote:
>> On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman <n...(a)no-email.com> wrote:
>>> On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
>>> metal.
>> It's no worse than on anything else.
>>
>> Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
>> except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most
>> uk.d-i- y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a
>> West Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff
>> isn't a bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A
>> real low- viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of
>> ready-filled tube epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.
>>
>> JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
>> for Araldite vs. West System.
>>
>> Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
>> uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
>> things like creep under load are improved by the filler.
>
> I've got an aluminium bike frame with a small hole worn in it, when it was
> ridden with a tyre rubbing the frame.. (damn kids).
>
> The wear is an elliptical cone about 10x6mm with a 2mm hole in the middle,
> on a rear stay of about 18mm diameter. Any guesses as to whether JBWeld
> would patch it up firmly enough for mucking about use (no World Cup
> Downhills planned...) or should I just scrap the frame?
>
>
>
Jb weld will patch it,but for strength I'd wrap it with glass fibre
cloth doused in polyester resin..

>
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