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From: Tegger on 28 Jun 2010 18:58
"hls" <hls(a)nospam.nix> wrote in
news:7PadnR5AsubvI7XRnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d(a)giganews.com:

>
> "N8N" <njnagel(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message news:fa7f6ddb-3348-4661-9
>
> I considered buying one years ago and I passed on it... one thing that
> I was told that is hard starting is often a sign that the engine is
> just slap wore out, and at least in my neck of the woods, there
> weren't any shops that were recommended for rebuilding a rotary
> engine. So if it doesn't start at the first twist of the key, you may
> want to consider moving on.
>
> nate
> *******
> Worn out is one issue, but there is, IIRC, a more common quirk that
> leads to a no-start situation at times even with engines that are not in
> that bad condition.



Accidentally swapping leading for trailing plugs can cause that. Once you
do get it started, you'll wonder why power is so low...until you discover
your mistake and switch the wires around properly.



--
Tegger
From: hls on 28 Jun 2010 20:08

"Tegger" <invalid(a)invalid.inv> wrote in message
news:Xns9DA5C0EDA3AE6tegger(a)208.90.168.18...
> "hls" <hls(a)nospam.nix> wrote in
> news:7PadnR5AsubvI7XRnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d(a)giganews.com:
>
>>
>> "N8N" <njnagel(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message news:fa7f6ddb-3348-4661-9
>>
>> I considered buying one years ago and I passed on it... one thing that
>> I was told that is hard starting is often a sign that the engine is
>> just slap wore out, and at least in my neck of the woods, there
>> weren't any shops that were recommended for rebuilding a rotary
>> engine. So if it doesn't start at the first twist of the key, you may
>> want to consider moving on.
>>
>> nate
>> *******
>> Worn out is one issue, but there is, IIRC, a more common quirk that
>> leads to a no-start situation at times even with engines that are not in
>> that bad condition.
>
>
>
> Accidentally swapping leading for trailing plugs can cause that. Once you
> do get it started, you'll wonder why power is so low...until you discover
> your mistake and switch the wires around properly.
>
>
>
> --
> Tegger

That is a good comment, but is not what I was referring to. Seems to me
that if you pull into a parking space and cut off the engine abruptly, you
may have a secondary problem of starting.
And the solution is to take out a plug and prime the cavity with fuel.

Well, that's not really a solution but will get you on the road again.
Happened to me and to a friend who had a younger RX than I had.


From: Tegger on 28 Jun 2010 22:06
"hls" <hls(a)nospam.nix> wrote in
news:iradnSfHOp_jpLTRnZ2dnUVZ_rudnZ2d(a)giganews.com:

>
> "Tegger" <invalid(a)invalid.inv> wrote in message
> news:Xns9DA5C0EDA3AE6tegger(a)208.90.168.18...
>> "hls" <hls(a)nospam.nix> wrote in
>> news:7PadnR5AsubvI7XRnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d(a)giganews.com:
>>
>>>
>>> "N8N" <njnagel(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:fa7f6ddb-3348-4661-9
>>>
>>> I considered buying one years ago and I passed on it... one thing
>>> that I was told that is hard starting is often a sign that the
>>> engine is just slap wore out, and at least in my neck of the woods,
>>> there weren't any shops that were recommended for rebuilding a
>>> rotary engine. So if it doesn't start at the first twist of the
>>> key, you may want to consider moving on.
>>>
>>> nate
>>> *******
>>> Worn out is one issue, but there is, IIRC, a more common quirk that
>>> leads to a no-start situation at times even with engines that are
>>> not in that bad condition.
>>
>>
>>
>> Accidentally swapping leading for trailing plugs can cause that. Once
>> you do get it started, you'll wonder why power is so low...until you
>> discover your mistake and switch the wires around properly.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> That is a good comment, but is not what I was referring to. Seems to
> me that if you pull into a parking space and cut off the engine
> abruptly, you may have a secondary problem of starting.



Never happened to me once during the ~20,000 miles I covered in that RX-
4. Maybe to you, but not to me.



> And the solution is to take out a plug and prime the cavity with fuel.


My 13B had a 4-barrel Hitachi carburetor that worked on identical
principles to all other carburetors of the period. Since it had your
standard power-piston, all you needed to do if adequate fuel-delivery
was a problem was to pump the gas pedal a few times before cranking,
just like with /any/ other carbureted car of the period.

Besides, your method only primes /one/ chamber of /one/ rotor. Remember
that the Mazda rotary has two rotors and six chambers. You'd have to get
awfully lucky to prime that one chamber that was heading for TDC, and
not the one that was already past TDC and headed for the exhaust port.
Each chamber is completely sealed from all the others, remember; it's
/not/ like a reciprocating engine.



>
> Well, that's not really a solution but will get you on the road again.
> Happened to me and to a friend who had a younger RX than I had.



Then you guys had a carb problem of some kind.


--
Tegger
From: searn on 29 Jun 2010 09:54
On Jun 28, 8:42 am, "Frans van der Voorde" <voo...(a)chello.nl> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I never owned a rotary engine car, but was always facinated by them.
>
> Now I can buy a Mazda RX7 1.1 1979 87.000 km second owner, according to the
> add, (of course), in excellent condition. Asking price Euro's 2.300.
> Who can tell me what specific points we should give close attention to. I
> understand this was the first year this model - with rotary engine - was
> built.
>
> I hope this newsgroup is the place to ask. If anyone knows a better place to
> ask this question, please let me know.
>
> Regards,
>
> Frans


Here is a link with lots of info on RX-7's: http://fm.no-ip.com/Car/cfaqmenu.html#FCF

The not fully warmed up hard-to-restart problem is with fuel-injected
engines, not carbureted ones. When you shut it off if not fully
warmed up on a colder day, fuel leaks through the injectors and floods
the motor. I have a 1988 GXL, and this has happened 2 times in the 22
years I've owned it. I found that putting Marvel Mystery oil in the
fuel at about twice the recommended amount a few times a year has
alleviated this problem for me.


From: dsi1 on 29 Jun 2010 18:33
On 6/29/2010 3:54 AM, searn wrote:
> On Jun 28, 8:42 am, "Frans van der Voorde"<voo...(a)chello.nl> wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> I never owned a rotary engine car, but was always facinated by them.
>>
>> Now I can buy a Mazda RX7 1.1 1979 87.000 km second owner, according to the
>> add, (of course), in excellent condition. Asking price Euro's 2.300.
>> Who can tell me what specific points we should give close attention to. I
>> understand this was the first year this model - with rotary engine - was
>> built.
>>
>> I hope this newsgroup is the place to ask. If anyone knows a better place to
>> ask this question, please let me know.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Frans
>
>
> Here is a link with lots of info on RX-7's: http://fm.no-ip.com/Car/cfaqmenu.html#FCF
>
> The not fully warmed up hard-to-restart problem is with fuel-injected
> engines, not carbureted ones. When you shut it off if not fully
> warmed up on a colder day, fuel leaks through the injectors and floods
> the motor. I have a 1988 GXL, and this has happened 2 times in the 22
> years I've owned it. I found that putting Marvel Mystery oil in the
> fuel at about twice the recommended amount a few times a year has
> alleviated this problem for me.
>
>

I would have thought that flooding the rotary would be tough and excess
gas would be just blown out the exhaust port. The carb rotaries that I
had sure did have a lot of backfiring though. Try explaining that to the
prospective buyer who's checking out the car, they'll always think
you're lying.

Revving up the engine and then turning off the ignition was a mistake
that I only did once - the resulting explosion pretty much cured me of
that behavior. I used to disconnect the vacuum throttle thingie that
kept it open on deceleration and found the little pop-pop noises to be
rather pleasant. I loved my rotaries but perhaps their time has passed.
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