Oil and Filter Change
in [Technical]
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From: Built_Well on 17 Oct 2007 01:51 larry moe 'n curly wrote: > [Walmart]...replaced their own Popular Mechanics brand with Stanley... ======== Thanks for mentioning that Walmart sells Stanley tools. Picked up a 60-piece Stanley ratchet and socket set at Walmart today, since I needed a 10 millimeter socket for the Camry's air filter housing. The socket set meets or exceeds ANSI specifications and was darn cheap: $30. It includes a 3/8" drive pear-head ratchet, both 3-inch and 6-inch extender bars, 1/4" adapter, SAE and Metric 6-point sockets from 4 to 19 mm, and other stuff. It's swell. The ratchet has a quick-release and the set comes with a lifetime warranty. Made in China of quality materials. Stanley sells good tools. Also swung by Sears to pick up the 1/2" 150 foot-pound Craftsman torque wrench that regularly sells for $80 but is on sale until Saturday for $60. I hope the Craftsman was worth it, because AutoZone and/or O'Reilly sell a 10-to-150 foot-pounder for $25 to $30. The Craftsman goes no lower than 20 foot-pounds, so the cheaper AutoZone wrench actually has a wider range. I wonder if I should have bought the $70 Husky from Home Depot that goes up to 250 foot-pounds, or the $130 Harbor Freight torque wrench that is digital, described at http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95841 Anyway, the Craftsman is made in the U.S; the others in Taiwan. Peeked under the chassis today, and spotted the jack points Ray was referring to. The front-end jack point is not covered by the protective plastic cover or a panel as someone else was worried about. The rear-end jack point is at least 3 feet inwards from the rear bumper. I think I'll lift from Ray's 2 jack points using a floor jack (all of which seem to raise in an arc), but place the 4 jack stands underneath the four double notches along the car's side rails. Do you think that's a workable, acceptable idea, Ray? I'm guessing the jack stands won't bend the notch seams since the stands do no arc-like raising, just supporting.
From: Ray O on 17 Oct 2007 02:07 "Built_Well" <built_well_toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message news:4715a253$0$68486$892e0abb(a)auth.newsreader.octanews.com... > > larry moe 'n curly wrote: > >> [Walmart]...replaced their own Popular Mechanics brand with Stanley... > ======== > > Thanks for mentioning that Walmart sells Stanley tools. > > Picked up a 60-piece Stanley ratchet and socket set > at Walmart today, since I needed a 10 millimeter socket > for the Camry's air filter housing. > > The socket set meets or exceeds ANSI specifications and > was darn cheap: $30. It includes a 3/8" drive pear-head ratchet, > both 3-inch and 6-inch extender bars, 1/4" adapter, SAE > and Metric 6-point sockets from 4 to 19 mm, and other > stuff. It's swell. The ratchet has a quick-release and > the set comes with a lifetime warranty. Made in China of > quality materials. Stanley sells good tools. I disagree on the quality of Stanley tools, at least for automotive use. I've pretty much broken, chipped, or bent any Stanley tool I've used, and they do not feel as comfortable in my hand as my Snap-On tools. The lifetime warranty is not so convenient when the 10 mm wrench has rounded off the bolt you were trying to loosen. > > Also swung by Sears to pick up the 1/2" 150 foot-pound > Craftsman torque wrench that regularly sells for $80 > but is on sale until Saturday for $60. I hope the > Craftsman was worth it, because AutoZone and/or O'Reilly > sell a 10-to-150 foot-pounder for $25 to $30. The Craftsman > goes no lower than 20 foot-pounds, so the cheaper AutoZone > wrench actually has a wider range. > > I wonder if I should have bought the $70 Husky from > Home Depot that goes up to 250 foot-pounds, or the > $130 Harbor Freight torque wrench that is digital, described at > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95841 > > Anyway, the Craftsman is made in the U.S; the others in Taiwan. > > Peeked under the chassis today, and spotted the jack points > Ray was referring to. The front-end jack point is not covered > by the protective plastic cover or a panel as someone else was > worried about. > > The rear-end jack point is at least 3 feet inwards from the rear > bumper. > > I think I'll lift from Ray's 2 jack points using a floor jack (all > of which seem to raise in an arc), but place the 4 jack stands > underneath the four double notches along the car's side rails. > Do you think that's a workable, acceptable idea, Ray? I'm guessing > the jack stands won't bend the notch seams since the stands do no > arc-like raising, just supporting. I prefer not to use the a painted surface like the pinch welds for jack stands because they can scratch the paint, leading to rust, but the pinch welds should be safe, and they do allow the most room for working under the car. Most shop lifts have a rubber pad on the lift arm so that arm does not scratch the pinch weld. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Mike Romain on 17 Oct 2007 10:40 Built_Well wrote: but place the 4 jack stands > underneath the four double notches along the car's side rails. > Do you think that's a workable, acceptable idea, Ray? I'm guessing > the jack stands won't bend the notch seams since the stands do no > arc-like raising, just supporting. I have honestly never seen anyone crazy enough to put a vehicle up on 4 jack stands to change tires. When I jack up something to work on it, I try for one corner, use a jack stand 'and' put the tire on it's side under the vehicle's edge as a last catcher if it all comes down. If I have to lift two wheels, I use double jack stands on each side, the tires and sometimes large blocks of wood under it. The floor jacks lift in an arc, this leans jack stands and they 'do' up and collapse. As soon as you put a wrench to something in the air, some major torque gets applied to those stands also. If they are already leaning because you used a floor jack, they 'can' fail. If they are already leaning because of floor jacks, the feet on them will dig into pavement, especially on a hot day and over it goes. If I 'must' use a sheet metal notch as a jack point, I use a 2x4 on the saddle of the jack or stand to help spread out the pressure. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
From: Steve on 17 Oct 2007 11:19 Mike Romain wrote: > Built_Well wrote: > but place the 4 jack stands > >> underneath the four double notches along the car's side rails. >> Do you think that's a workable, acceptable idea, Ray? I'm guessing >> the jack stands won't bend the notch seams since the stands do no >> arc-like raising, just supporting. > > > I have honestly never seen anyone crazy enough to put a vehicle up on 4 > jack stands to change tires. <raising hand and looking a little indignant at being called 'crazy'...> OK, not JUST for changing tires, but there have been a number of times I've put a car up on 4 stands (the cast-and-welded stands, NEVER the stamped sheet-metal stands with a "pin" to hold them up- those things are death traps). Rear stands go either under the axle tubes if I can work with the suspension compressed or under the front spring perch rails if I have to let the suspension hang (rear-drive) or jacking points (front-drive). Front jackstands always go under the K-frame or under the jacking points (on some front-drive cars). > > When I jack up something to work on it, I try for one corner, use a jack > stand 'and' put the tire on it's side under the vehicle's edge as a last > catcher if it all comes down. Here we REALLY differ. I don't consider a vehicle lifted at one corner to be particularly stable, especially if the work requires me to get anywhere under it. I prefer to lift both front wheels or both rear wheels so that the car is level (side-to-side) and the jackstands are square against the chassis or suspension with no side pressures at all. > > > The floor jacks lift in an arc, this leans jack stands and they 'do' up > and collapse. If your jackstands are tilting, then your floor jack isn't working right or you're working on a soft surface like asphalt and you should find a concrete floor to work on. Yes, floor jacks lift in an arc, but that's why they have hard steel wheels. As the vehicle lifts, the jack should roll forward so that the vehicle goes straight up. The vehicle should be chocked firmly in place so that it CANNOT move. I agree with putting something like a removed tire under there as a last-ditch backup.
From: cuhulin on 17 Oct 2007 12:22
When I need to jack up a corner or corners of my vehicle to crawl under there to work on it, I always find something good and solid (I don't trust those hollow concrete/cinder blocks) to put under the wheel(s.I have a few big wide heavy three feet long steel I beam sections I usually use) then I ease off the jack.At 65 years old, I am too young to die yet.It is always best to be safe than sorry. cuhulin |