Oil and Filter Change
in [Technical]
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From: jim on 20 Oct 2007 18:24 Elle wrote: > > "Comboverfish" <comboverfish(a)yahoo.com> wrote > E > >> I would re-read the stickers. What's claimed above fails > >> the > >> engineering common sense check. Namely, load supporting > >> structures in series ("one on top of the other") can only > >> carry as much weight as the weakest link. A pair stacked > >> one > >> on top of the other should be safe for 3000 lbs. Three > >> stacked one on top of the other is safe for 3000 lbs. Etc > > > > What he's describing is two stands that are designed to > > fit one inside > > the other, for lack of better description. If they worked > > as you are > > describing (one on top of the other), how would you drive > > on to them? > > He's then allegedly got the "legs" of one ramp spreading > wider than the legs of the one beneath it. It does not make > sense. > > No idea how you'd drive onto them. This is also why I doubt > he read the stickers correctly. > > > I wouldn't trust the double ramp design enough to max it > > out. If one > > was to buckle at a high rate of speed there would more > > momentum > > crashing down onto the other one, even if they are only a > > fraction of > > an inch apart from each other. Certainly one ramp has to > > provide > > *most* of the static support until it *can't* anymore. I > > don't > > believe stacking two things together like nesting dolls > > gives anywhere > > near double strength, but I'm no engineer... I'd feel > > more > > comfortable with claims of 1.5X improvement. > > Just saying: Picture a rope, rated at 100 lbs. connected in > series to a steel cable, rated at 5000 lbs. How much weight > can the rope and steel cable support in series before the > setup fails? That's a wonderful question but it has nothing to do with how the 2 ramps work. And I would recommend trying to drive a 3000 lb car up a cable even if it is rated at 5000 lbs. The difference between your example and the ramps is yours is designed to fail and the other is designed to work. A better analogy would be 2 dixie cups stacked together will support more weight than one alone. -jim ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
From: Built_Well on 21 Oct 2007 00:43 Here's the procedure for rotating tires recommended by the book "Auto Upkeep - Basic Car Care": Put on your safety glasses. Check the owner�s manual for recommended tire rotation patterns. Remove wheel covers if applicable. Check the owner�s manual for procedure. Some covers (hubcaps) have locking mechanisms that need to be removed first. Loosen lug nuts one complete turn with a lug wrench, but no further. [The Camry manual says to loosen one-half turn (not much of a difference.)] Use jack and jack stands (or an automotive lift) to raise and support the vehicle. Note the position of each tire. Remove the lug nuts on each tire. Remove each tire and move it to the new location according to the owner�s manual recommendations. Apply anti-seize compound to the wheel stud threads. [Built_Well's note: The above step sounds counter-intuitive to me. The manual says not to put oil or grease on the wheel's nuts and bolts because it can result in over-tightening with a wrench, and also result in the nuts loosening over time. I believe "wheel stud threads" refers to the wheel's bolts, and you screw the lug nuts onto the bolts. So it doesn't sound right to put anti-seize here. Maybe putting anti-seize on the hub and wheel mounting surfaces is okay, like Ray says, but on the bolts?!] [Here's the exact wording from the manual: "Caution. Never use oil or grease on the bolts or nuts. The nuts may loosen and the wheels may fall off, which could cause a serious accident."] Start all lug nuts by hand. Do not cross-thread nuts. Spin the nuts on with a lug wrench and snug. Use a star pattern when tightening lug nuts. [The manual says to "reinstall all the wheel nuts finger-tight" while the car is in the air.] Do not use a pneumatic wrench at this time. Lower the vehicle /just/ until the tires touch the ground. [Why not lower the car completely at this point, as recommended by the Camry manual?] Check the owner�s manual or specification�s chart for torque recommendations. Use a torque wrench or color-coded torque sticks with an impact wrench to tighten the lug nuts on each wheel. When tightening, use a star pattern. Failure to torque wheels may result in warped brake rotors. Under-torqued wheels may allow the wheel to work loose and come off when driving, causing a hazardous situation. Completely lower the vehicle. Recheck all lug nuts with the torque wrench. Replace wheel covers. Clean and put away all tools.
From: Mark A on 21 Oct 2007 03:03 "Built_Well" <built_well_toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message news:471ad843$0$68461> Apply anti-seize compound to the wheel stud threads. > > [Built_Well's note: The above step sounds counter-intuitive to me. > The manual says not to put oil or grease on the wheel's nuts and > bolts because it can result in over-tightening with a > wrench, and also result in the nuts loosening over time. I believe > "wheel stud threads" refers to the wheel's bolts, and you screw the > lug nuts onto the bolts. So it doesn't sound right to put anti-seize > here. Maybe putting anti-seize on the hub and wheel mounting surfaces > is okay, like Ray says, but on the bolts?!] > > [Here's the exact wording from the manual: "Caution. Never use > oil or grease on the bolts or nuts. The nuts may loosen and the > wheels may fall off, which could cause a serious accident."] Anti-seize compound is not considered to be an oil or grease, even though it may be a petroleum distillate. There are many compounds made from petroleum that are used to remove oil or grease.
From: Bruce L. Bergman on 21 Oct 2007 03:03 On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 23:43:09 -0500, Built_Well <built_well_toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote: >Apply anti-seize compound to the wheel stud threads. > > [Built_Well's note: The above step sounds counter-intuitive to me. > The manual says not to put oil or grease on the wheel's nuts and > bolts because it can result in over-tightening with a > wrench, and also result in the nuts loosening over time. I believe > "wheel stud threads" refers to the wheel's bolts, and you screw the > lug nuts onto the bolts. So it doesn't sound right to put anti-seize > here. Maybe putting anti-seize on the hub and wheel mounting surfaces > is okay, like Ray says, but on the bolts?!] > > [Here's the exact wording from the manual: "Caution. Never use > oil or grease on the bolts or nuts. The nuts may loosen and the > wheels may fall off, which could cause a serious accident."] Well, Anti-seize isn't really a grease per se, it's there to make a rust-resistant film. In My Opinion it's far better that the lugs don't rust solid to the studs, than to possibly back off - you aren't putting any anti-seize on the conical seating/clamping face of the lug nuts, so they should have sufficient friction to stay locked in place. Use a TINY dab of nickel-based anti-seize on each stud, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 a water drop in size. Fill in two thread notches for 3/16" to 1/4" wide. The stuff goes a long way, if in doubt use less. Trust me, if the lugs do get loose you'll feel a problem long before it gets bad enough to where the wheel will fall off the car. If I was really paranoid, I would go get some regular hex nuts with the right threads (or some of the special skinny jam nuts if you can find them) and put them on after torquing down the regular lug nuts. But some vehicles would require longer studs, and that won't work on mag wheels with exposed nuts. That, or get side-drilled lug nuts from an aerospace supply and lace them in position on the wheel with safety wire after torquing. --<< Bruce >>--
From: mred on 21 Oct 2007 08:33
On Oct 21, 3:03 am, Bruce L. Bergman <blnospamberg...(a)earthlink.invalid> wrote: > On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 23:43:09 -0500, Built_Well > > <built_well_toy...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > >Apply anti-seize compound to the wheel stud threads. > > > [Built_Well's note: The above step sounds counter-intuitive to me. > > The manual says not to put oil or grease on the wheel's nuts and > > bolts because it can result in over-tightening with a > > wrench, and also result in the nuts loosening over time. I believe > > "wheel stud threads" refers to the wheel's bolts, and you screw the > > lug nuts onto the bolts. So it doesn't sound right to put anti-seize > > here. Maybe putting anti-seize on the hub and wheel mounting surfaces > > is okay, like Ray says, but on the bolts?!] > > > [Here's the exact wording from the manual: "Caution. Never use > > oil or grease on the bolts or nuts. The nuts may loosen and the > > wheels may fall off, which could cause a serious accident."] > > Well, Anti-seize isn't really a grease per se, it's there to make a > rust-resistant film. In My Opinion it's far better that the lugs > don't rust solid to the studs, than to possibly back off - you aren't > putting any anti-seize on the conical seating/clamping face of the lug > nuts, so they should have sufficient friction to stay locked in place. > > Use a TINY dab of nickel-based anti-seize on each stud, maybe 1/4 to > 1/2 a water drop in size. Fill in two thread notches for 3/16" to > 1/4" wide. The stuff goes a long way, if in doubt use less. > > Trust me, if the lugs do get loose you'll feel a problem long before > it gets bad enough to where the wheel will fall off the car. > > If I was really paranoid, I would go get some regular hex nuts with > the right threads (or some of the special skinny jam nuts if you can > find them) and put them on after torquing down the regular lug nuts. > But some vehicles would require longer studs, and that won't work on > mag wheels with exposed nuts. > > That, or get side-drilled lug nuts from an aerospace supply and lace > them in position on the wheel with safety wire after torquing. > > --<< Bruce >>-- Ever since a shop broke a wheel stud trying to get a flat tire off my car in Fla. I have used oil or grease on my wheel studs for easy removal. Once burned twice shy so to speak~! In 50 years , I have NEVER ~! and I mean NEVER~!!!!! had a problem with wheels becoming loose after applying grease or oil to the wheel studs.. What it did do ? was make it MUCH easier to remove a wheel when on the road with a flat tire. This is my personal experience with the use of lubricants on wheel studs. However , today ? I get the wheels rotated every six months so theres no chance of the studs rusting tight. |