Oil and Filter Change
in [Technical]
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From: Ray O on 27 Oct 2007 19:03 "Built_Well" <built_well_toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message news:4723a4a1$0$90449$892e0abb(a)auth.newsreader.octanews.com... > > Ray O wrote: > >> While technicians should not be tightening lug nuts with an impact gun >> without any kind of torque limiting, using a torque wrench or torque >> stick should be fine. > > Thanks for the reassurance, Ray O. "Auto Upkeep" agrees with you, > saying lug nuts can be tightened with an impact wrench fitted with > a torque stick or a torque wrench. > > The tech wasn't using a regular impact wrench/gun. His tool was > electric/automatic but it looked like a silver ratchet > with a long extender bar. Didn't look anything like the regular > impact guns/wrenches, which look like drills. Besides pneumatic, there are electric impact wrenches, which are easier to calibrate than pneumatic ones. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Built_Well on 27 Oct 2007 20:26 Looking in the oil row of Sam's Club, I saw 5-gallon pails of 10w-20 universal /Tractor/ hydraulic and transmission oil for $30, which comes to $1.50 a quart. I mention this in case some of our tractor friends think $1.50 is a good price. I also saw a dozen rolls of blue shop towels from Scott for $15.86. Each roll is 41 square feet (55 sheets). That's a darn good price and beats sister-store Walmart's $1.77 per roll of 55 sheets (slightly larger 43.6 square feet per roll). Everybody else wants at least $2 per roll for Scott's blue shop towels. Correction: the Michelin floor jack at Sam's will raise to the height of the chassis in just one pump of the lever, not to its full height of 22 inches. Anyhow, great deals at Sam's Club.
From: Daniel W. Rouse Jr. on 28 Oct 2007 04:37 "Mark A" <nobody(a)nowhere.com> wrote in message news:xM3Ti.3819$W9.896(a)bignews6.bellsouth.net... > "Built_Well" <Built_Well_Toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:1193067869.342351.153810(a)i13g2000prf.googlegroups.com... > > > > I've finished trying to educate Mark A. His little mind > > is into rhetorical games, not honest debate. > > > > He's simply repeating the same thing post-after-post. > > Apparently I have to repeat it because you don't understand English. If you > want to call that rhetoric, that is your problem. > > I explained the difference quite clearly. Toyota wants to err on the side of > safety, and the other book wants to err on the side of making sure the wheel > is flat against the hub before the lug nuts are tightened. > > So a good compromise is to tighten the lug nuts to between 20 and 40 ft-lbs. with the wheel up in the air, then lower the wheel down to the ground and finish incrementally torquing to the manufactuerer suggested value. (For automatic transmission vehicles, Park should be sufficient to lock the front wheels from turning, parking brake should be sufficient to lock the rear wheels from turning.)
From: Bruce L. Bergman on 28 Oct 2007 13:19 On Sun, 28 Oct 2007 01:37:44 -0700, "Daniel W. Rouse Jr." <dwrousejr(a)nethere.comNOSPAM> wrote: >"Mark A" <nobody(a)nowhere.com> wrote in message >news:xM3Ti.3819$W9.896(a)bignews6.bellsouth.net... >> "Built_Well" <Built_Well_Toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message >> news:1193067869.342351.153810(a)i13g2000prf.googlegroups.com... >> > >> > I've finished trying to educate Mark A. His little mind >> > is into rhetorical games, not honest debate. >> > >> > He's simply repeating the same thing post-after-post. >> >> Apparently I have to repeat it because you don't understand English. If >> you want to call that rhetoric, that is your problem. >> >> I explained the difference quite clearly. Toyota wants to err on the side >> of safety, and the other book wants to err on the side of making sure the >> wheel is flat against the hub before the lug nuts are tightened. > >So a good compromise is to tighten the lug nuts to between 20 and 40 ft-lbs. >with the wheel up in the air, then lower the wheel down to the ground and >finish incrementally torquing to the manufactuerer suggested value. > >(For automatic transmission vehicles, Park should be sufficient to lock the >front wheels from turning, parking brake should be sufficient to lock the >rear wheels from turning.) You've got it! By George, He's Got It!! ;-) The trick is to not put a lot of sideways force on the car while it's balanced up on a jack or jackstands - even chock blocks can't prevent the car from moving if you put enough OOMPH into it. A rough 20+ Ft-Lbs (no torque wrench needed, just a hand lug wrench or the Impact Wrench set to "Low" or "1" position) is enough to get the wheels properly positioned & centered on the hubs, and make it safe to drop the car to the ground. I wouldn't even try to torque the wheels to final readings with the car up on a shop post lift if the car isn't well balanced. Sometimes the lift design leaves the car heavy on one set of lift points and light on the other, and cars fall off shop lifts all the time if the mechanic doesn't respect that fact. (They pull the engine out and the car makes a neat backflip and falls. Hey, it was balanced when they drove it on...) Once your car is on the ground QED it can't fall off the jacks anymore. ;-) Torque to your heart's content. --<< Bruce >>--
From: Mike Romain on 28 Oct 2007 14:13
Bruce L. Bergman wrote: > Once your car is on the ground QED it can't fall off the jacks > anymore. ;-) Torque to your heart's content. > > --<< Bruce >>-- > The OP unfortunately doesn't believe that vehicles 'do' fall off the jacks 'really' easily and insists on using 4 jackstands to rotate his wheels because a jackstand maker told him so. To make matters worse he has to do this on 'unknown' ground 'every' time because he lives where he can't work on it so has to go looking for a dirt or dead end road to use. The OP is in for a shock I think.... At least I 'know' how unstable my driveway's pavement is so act accordingly. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... |