Paint on rust converter
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From: adder1969 on 5 Dec 2007 08:00 On Dec 5, 8:43 am, "Rob graham" <rttgraham...(a)btinternet.com> wrote: > > coat. Suggestions gratefully recieved. > > There is no lasting cure, but I've got a car that is now 52 years old, and I > have had it for the last 23 years and paint (by squirting) the underneath > with old engine oil every two years. A bit messy but costs nothing and works > like a dream. > > Rob Graham People complain about the build quality of Britsh cars but this type of automatic car body underseal system using engine or transmission oil used to be a standard feature.
From: Dave Baker on 5 Dec 2007 08:07 "seabreeze" <corriequk(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:3b2d71cc-f3e6-48d9-adae-794eb234e9b9(a)s36g2000prg.googlegroups.com... >I would like to use a paint on rust converter to deal with surface > rust on the underneath of my van. I have tried Loctite 7503 and Rust > Doctor, but when I have used them before the rust still seems to come > back under the paint despite carefully removing as much loose rust as > possible, following instructions and using a red primer under top > coat. Suggestions gratefully recieved. Basically don't waste your time because no rust converter deals with all the rust present and any left will quickly start to spread again under the paint. The only sure method is abrasive cleaning i.e. sand blasting which gets into the pores as well as removing the visible surface rust and then use a good primer, zinc usually, before painting over. The rules for dealing with rust, in anything, are get every part back to clean bright metal and then prime and paint before new rust starts to take hold again which can be within hours in the right environment. I think anyone who's messed about with vehicles over a number of years has tried and failed to cure rust long term with converters, wire brushes, disc sanders or any other method that doesn't use fine abrasive particles to get into all the surface pores. -- Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines
From: asahartz on 5 Dec 2007 12:47 On Wed, 5 Dec 2007 05:00:39 -0800 (PST), adder1969 <adder1969(a)yahoo.co.uk> wrote: >On Dec 5, 8:43 am, "Rob graham" <rttgraham...(a)btinternet.com> wrote: > >> > coat. Suggestions gratefully recieved. >> >> There is no lasting cure, but I've got a car that is now 52 years old, and I >> have had it for the last 23 years and paint (by squirting) the underneath >> with old engine oil every two years. A bit messy but costs nothing and works >> like a dream. >> >> Rob Graham > > >People complain about the build quality of Britsh cars but this type >of automatic car body underseal system using engine or transmission >oil used to be a standard feature. Absolutely true; my '71 Mini is a fine example of this! And there's no rust whatsoever underneath. -- asahartz woz ere
From: Doki on 5 Dec 2007 15:32 "Dave Baker" <Dave(a)Dave.com> wrote in message news:fj67qq$cei$1(a)news.datemas.de... > > "seabreeze" <corriequk(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:3b2d71cc-f3e6-48d9-adae-794eb234e9b9(a)s36g2000prg.googlegroups.com... >>I would like to use a paint on rust converter to deal with surface >> rust on the underneath of my van. I have tried Loctite 7503 and Rust >> Doctor, but when I have used them before the rust still seems to come >> back under the paint despite carefully removing as much loose rust as >> possible, following instructions and using a red primer under top >> coat. Suggestions gratefully recieved. > > Basically don't waste your time because no rust converter deals with all > the rust present and any left will quickly start to spread again under the > paint. The only sure method is abrasive cleaning i.e. sand blasting which > gets into the pores as well as removing the visible surface rust and then > use a good primer, zinc usually, before painting over. > > The rules for dealing with rust, in anything, are get every part back to > clean bright metal and then prime and paint before new rust starts to take > hold again which can be within hours in the right environment. I think > anyone who's messed about with vehicles over a number of years has tried > and failed to cure rust long term with converters, wire brushes, disc > sanders or any other method that doesn't use fine abrasive particles to > get into all the surface pores. I've got to agree with Dave here. An 80 grit sanding disk or a wire brush will make a pretty good job if it's a flat panel, but if you've got anything else, the best way is to blast it clean.
From: adder1969 on 6 Dec 2007 06:18
On Dec 5, 8:32 pm, "Doki" <mrd...(a)gmail.com> wrote: > "Dave Baker" <D...(a)Dave.com> wrote in message > > news:fj67qq$cei$1(a)news.datemas.de... > > > > > > > > > "seabreeze" <corrie...(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message > >news:3b2d71cc-f3e6-48d9-adae-794eb234e9b9(a)s36g2000prg.googlegroups.com... > >>I would like to use a paint on rust converter to deal with surface > >> rust on the underneath of my van. I have tried Loctite 7503 and Rust > >> Doctor, but when I have used them before the rust still seems to come > >> back under the paint despite carefully removing as much loose rust as > >> possible, following instructions and using a red primer under top > >> coat. Suggestions gratefully recieved. > > > Basically don't waste your time because no rust converter deals with all > > the rust present and any left will quickly start to spread again under the > > paint. The only sure method is abrasive cleaning i.e. sand blasting which > > gets into the pores as well as removing the visible surface rust and then > > use a good primer, zinc usually, before painting over. > > > The rules for dealing with rust, in anything, are get every part back to > > clean bright metal and then prime and paint before new rust starts to take > > hold again which can be within hours in the right environment. I think > > anyone who's messed about with vehicles over a number of years has tried > > and failed to cure rust long term with converters, wire brushes, disc > > sanders or any other method that doesn't use fine abrasive particles to > > get into all the surface pores. > > I've got to agree with Dave here. An 80 grit sanding disk or a wire brush > will make a pretty good job if it's a flat panel, but if you've got anything > else, the best way is to blast it clean.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - If it were the underneath of my van I'd just slap loads of waxoyl underseal on it. |