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From: Noddy on 21 Jun 2010 23:16 "Bernd Felsche" <berfel(a)innovative.iinet.net.au> wrote in message news:kck5f7xsn2.ln2(a)innovative.iinet.net.au... > Insulating the walls is done in a similar way. If walls and roof are > insulated by blanket, then internal noise reflection is at a > minimum. Even your own noise-making will be reduced. All but the > most intense rain will be almost inaudible when you're inside. And > the neighbours won't be able to hear the screams and laughter as you > dismember your enemies. (You have floor drains planned, haven't > you?) I do :) > The insulation won't add squillions to the cost at construction. I'll look into it. Thanks Bernd. One of the ideas put forward by a neighbour was to line the walls with bats and then cover them with a decent plywood sheet. The insulation effect is apparently considerable, and the bonus is that the ply makes it easy to hang stuff. I can see some benefit to that idea but it sounds like a *shitload* of work. > When you're building stuff and storing bits that might corrode, an > insulated area reduces the temperature swings. You get less > condensation on surfaces and therefore less corrosion. And bits are > pretty much the same size in the morning as they will be in the > afternoon. That sounds good to me. -- Regards, Noddy.
From: Noddy on 21 Jun 2010 23:22 "Fraser Johnston" <ftrust(a)iinet.net.au> wrote in message news:88am77Ffg9U1(a)mid.individual.net... > Paint the floor. I did mine in the garage at home prior to moving in and > it was the best move I have ever made. Makes cleaning up spills a portion > of urine. I was considering that Fraser, but I was advised by the concreter not to. His reasoning for that was that even when the best urethane paints are used it does scratch and chip in heavy traffic areas, and if you're dragging jacks and other equipment across the floor on a regular basis it makes a mess of the painted surfaces before too long. On the other hand, the paint is indeed a good barrier for oil and other fluids, and I used to have my workshop floor painted (and repainted it every 12 months or so). As a compromise I had the concrete finished very smooth. This doesn't prevent the floor from being stained by liquids and other things, but it kind of acts like paint in that the clean up is a lot easier than regular rough finished concrete. However, I still plan to paint some of the floor. The area around the hoist and in the toolroom & spraybooth mostly. The rest of it will be for "dirty working", and can remain bare concrete. -- Regards, Noddy.
From: PhilD on 21 Jun 2010 23:56 "Noddy" <me(a)home.com> wrote in message news:4c202dfe$0$1209$c30e37c6(a)exi-reader.telstra.net... > > "Fraser Johnston" <ftrust(a)iinet.net.au> wrote in message > news:88am77Ffg9U1(a)mid.individual.net... > >> Paint the floor. I did mine in the garage at home prior to moving in and >> it was the best move I have ever made. Makes cleaning up spills a >> portion of urine. > > > I was considering that Fraser, but I was advised by the concreter not to. > > His reasoning for that was that even when the best urethane paints are > used it does scratch and chip in heavy traffic areas, and if you're > dragging jacks and other equipment across the floor on a regular basis it > makes a mess of the painted surfaces before too long. On the other hand, > the paint is indeed a good barrier for oil and other fluids, and I used to > have my workshop floor painted (and repainted it every 12 months or so). > > As a compromise I had the concrete finished very smooth. This doesn't > prevent the floor from being stained by liquids and other things, but it > kind of acts like paint in that the clean up is a lot easier than regular > rough finished concrete. However, I still plan to paint some of the floor. > The area around the hoist and in the toolroom & spraybooth mostly. > > The rest of it will be for "dirty working", and can remain bare concrete. > An alternative is something like http://www.ceramica.com.au/products_pavex_sba.html . We've used some of this for sealing pavers to prevent oil staining and is apparently suitable for concrete. It has 2 issues though. Firstly, it needs a VERY well ventilated area and/or breathing mask suitable for these chemical fume types otherwise you ain't going to feel well afterwards. Coating the bottom pebblecrete down inside spas even required masks. Secondly, while they suggest 2 coats our experience on both a concrete driveway and on pavers was that any more than one coat ended up being decidedly slippery when wet. There maybe the need to wait for some weeks for concrete to fully cure before using it though and maybe to use an etching treatment first. PhilD
From: Fraser Johnston on 22 Jun 2010 00:24 "Noddy" <me(a)home.com> wrote in message news:4c202dfe$0$1209$c30e37c6(a)exi-reader.telstra.net... > > "Fraser Johnston" <ftrust(a)iinet.net.au> wrote in message > news:88am77Ffg9U1(a)mid.individual.net... > >> Paint the floor. I did mine in the garage at home prior to moving in and it >> was the best move I have ever made. Makes cleaning up spills a portion of >> urine. > > > I was considering that Fraser, but I was advised by the concreter not to. > > His reasoning for that was that even when the best urethane paints are used > it does scratch and chip in heavy traffic areas, and if you're dragging jacks > and other equipment across the floor on a regular basis it makes a mess of > the painted surfaces before too long. On the other hand, the paint is indeed > a good barrier for oil and other fluids, and I used to have my workshop floor > painted (and repainted it every 12 months or so). > > As a compromise I had the concrete finished very smooth. This doesn't prevent > the floor from being stained by liquids and other things, but it kind of acts > like paint in that the clean up is a lot easier than regular rough finished > concrete. However, I still plan to paint some of the floor. The area around > the hoist and in the toolroom & spraybooth mostly. > > The rest of it will be for "dirty working", and can remain bare concrete. I got some garage floor paint from Bunnings and it has stood up really well. We park one car and the bikes on it with no problems. I drag my bike lift around on it all the time and it will probably need a repaint every 12 months but other than that it has been great. Fraser
From: hippo on 22 Jun 2010 02:14
Noddy wrote: > > > "Bernd Felsche" <berfel(a)innovative.iinet.net.au> wrote in message > news:kck5f7xsn2.ln2(a)innovative.iinet.net.au... > > > Insulating the walls is done in a similar way. If walls and roof are > > insulated by blanket, then internal noise reflection is at a > > minimum. Even your own noise-making will be reduced. All but the > > most intense rain will be almost inaudible when you're inside. And > > the neighbours won't be able to hear the screams and laughter as you > > dismember your enemies. (You have floor drains planned, haven't > > you?) > > I do :) > > > The insulation won't add squillions to the cost at construction. > > I'll look into it. Thanks Bernd. > > One of the ideas put forward by a neighbour was to line the walls with bats > and then cover them with a decent plywood sheet. The insulation effect is > apparently considerable, and the bonus is that the ply makes it easy to hang > stuff. I can see some benefit to that idea but it sounds like a *shitload* > of work. > > > When you're building stuff and storing bits that might corrode, an > > insulated area reduces the temperature swings. You get less > > condensation on surfaces and therefore less corrosion. And bits are > > pretty much the same size in the morning as they will be in the > > afternoon. > > That sounds good to me. > > -- > Regards, > Noddy. > > > > As a bonus, if you use something denser like Rokwool in strategic areas, you'll get more soundproofing to the outside there than you would with GF (not that you're probably too worried about that where you have it by the sound of things). Just lining *some* of the inside area over the insulation &/or using textured or angled covering can cut down the inside noise heaps too - handy when you're working alongside the racket. FWIW, Lining all or most of 2 adjacent sides & leaving the other 2 with just insulation is really good acoustically but not really practical from a dust point of view :( Wallboard instead of ply reduces your range of easy hanging options but is more fire retardant if the worst happens. Oh well, I'll just struggle on with a 6M x 6M hayshed! Cheers Either way, it *is* a shitoad of work! -- Posted at www.usenet.com.au |