Rewire Ford Focus
in [Car Maintenance]
|
From: Dave Plowman (News) on 28 Jul 2007 06:43 In article <gUDqi.5685$By5.1225(a)text.news.blueyonder.co.uk>, PC Paul <urd2(a)bitrot.co.uk> wrote: > Dave Plowman (News) wrote: > > Most mechanics and so called auto > > electricians bodge such things. The standard red blue and yellow > > electrical crimp terminals most use are really not up to the job and > > proper car connectors should be used instead. This is a source of such > > connectors and the correct wire if needed. > > > > http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php > > > I'm curious, I've had a browse around and they have the standard ranges > of red,blue,yellow crimp connectors, scotchloks and choc-strips. Which > of those do you call 'proper car connectors'? I'd use their crimp spade connectors of an appropriate size for the cables - generally the 1/4" ones will do, but you need the correct crimping tool. Those generic pre-insulated types simply don't make a reliable crimp on flex even with the correct tool as you'd find if you remove the insulation and compare the crimp to the correct terminal correctly made. I do realise the crimp tool for automotive spade connectors is expensive but this shouldn't matter to a pro or dedicated amateur. The difference is the 'pre insulated' tool simply flattens the crimp. This is fine if the cable is a tight fit - which it won't be with standard car cables. The car connector crimp tool sort of makes a heart shaped crimp which makes a far better lasting connection both electrically and mechanically. I've lost count of the number of pre-insulated types I've replaced on cars where they've been the cause of a poor connection - in many cases just pulling off the cable with no effort. Most 'mechanics' shouldn't be allowed near car wiring. And include most alarm and audio installers in that too. ;-) -- *The more I learn about women, the more I love my car Dave Plowman dave(a)davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound.
From: Chris Bartram on 28 Jul 2007 06:45 Dave Plowman (News) wrote: [snip] > However, any loom can be repaired. It would however require a skilled > person to do the job correctly. Most mechanics and so called auto > electricians bodge such things. The standard red blue and yellow > electrical crimp terminals most use are really not up to the job and > proper car connectors should be used instead. This is a source of such > connectors and the correct wire if needed. > > http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php > My choice is to solder and heatshrink on the few wiring repairs I've had to do. Properly done it's better than any crimp, and neater.
From: Timo Geusch on 28 Jul 2007 06:51 Chris Bartram <news(a)delete.me.piglet-net.net> writes: > Dave Plowman (News) wrote: > [snip] >> However, any loom can be repaired. It would however require a skilled >> person to do the job correctly. Most mechanics and so called auto >> electricians bodge such things. The standard red blue and yellow >> electrical crimp terminals most use are really not up to the job and >> proper car connectors should be used instead. This is a source of such >> connectors and the correct wire if needed. >> >> http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php >> > > My choice is to solder and heatshrink on the few wiring repairs I've > had to do. Properly done it's better than any crimp, and neater. It's also a hell of a lot more prone to break due to vibration. -- '89 Mazda RX-7 Convertible '92 Mazda RX-7
From: Dave Plowman (News) on 28 Jul 2007 07:11 In article <A7Fqi.5736$By5.1741(a)text.news.blueyonder.co.uk>, Chris Bartram <news(a)delete.me.piglet-net.net> wrote: > My choice is to solder and heatshrink on the few wiring repairs I've had > to do. Properly done it's better than any crimp, and neater. Soldering is better than poor crimping and can be an option if you don't have decent crimping tools. But it's not as reliable as a *good* crimp for this job - check military specs. However, if there is enough spare cable to allow soldering and you use glue type heat shrink I'd certainly say it suitable for this repair. But it still needs some skill to do properly. -- *Why does the sun lighten our hair, but darken our skin? Dave Plowman dave(a)davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound.
From: moray on 28 Jul 2007 08:02
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave(a)davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message news:4f0973958adave(a)davenoise.co.uk... > In article <A7Fqi.5736$By5.1741(a)text.news.blueyonder.co.uk>, > Chris Bartram <news(a)delete.me.piglet-net.net> wrote: >> My choice is to solder and heatshrink on the few wiring repairs I've had >> to do. Properly done it's better than any crimp, and neater. > > Soldering is better than poor crimping and can be an option if you don't > have decent crimping tools. But it's not as reliable as a *good* crimp for > this job - check military specs. Goto rswww.com and put in part no. 528-9264. That's the ideal type of connector for wiring repairs (they can be found else where far cheaper though), but make sure you use the right size for the wire (red covers most car applications, blue for bigger wires, and if needed, yellow for heavy wires), and use a decent pair of crimping pliers. Crimp it on, and before shrinking it, give the wires a pull to make sure it's crimped right. Then heat it up, and make sure the glue bubbles out each end so it's fully sealed. > However, if there is enough spare cable to allow soldering and you use > glue type heat shrink I'd certainly say it suitable for this repair. But > it still needs some skill to do properly. Biggest problem with soldering, is getting the wires properly cleaned to get a good solder joint, which in a lot of situations, is near impossible. The above crimps are the preferred method for loom repair. |