From: Dave Plowman (News) on
In article <f8fgv0$516$1$830fa79d(a)news.demon.co.uk>,
moray <mtb_hyphen_rules(a)hotmail.co.uk> wrote:

> "Dave Plowman (News)" <dave(a)davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:4f097cd7dbdave(a)davenoise.co.uk...
> > In article <f8fb9i$4dg$1$8300dec7(a)news.demon.co.uk>,
> > moray <mtb_hyphen_rules(a)hotmail.co.uk> wrote:
> >> Goto rswww.com and put in part no. 528-9264. That's the ideal type of
> >> connector for wiring repairs (they can be found else where far cheaper
> >> though), but make sure you use the right size for the wire (red covers
> >> most car applications, blue for bigger wires, and if needed, yellow for
> >> heavy wires), and use a decent pair of crimping pliers. Crimp it on, and
> >> before shrinking it, give the wires a pull to make sure it's crimped
> >> right. Then heat it up, and make sure the glue bubbles out each end so
> >> it's fully sealed.
> >
> > You've obviously not read my previous post on the subject. These
> > connectors make a poor crimp on flex unless it is *exactly* the right
> > size. They are a bodge and should be avoided. Better no more expensive
> > solutions exist.

> Well if they make that bad a connection, then why do the big car
> manufacturer's recommend them for wiring repairs, and use them when
> contructing looms?

The answer is they don't use them when making looms. Nor have I seen any
of them recommend them for repairs. Looms don't usually need any repairs -
and a maker would recommend replacement if accident damaged.

> The main thing is to use the right one for the given wiring size (far
> too many people just use blue crimps, when they should really be using
> red ones), and to use a good pair of crimping pliers.

There is no right *one* - they all cover a range of cable sizes which is
the main problem.

> They're a far better option than using uninsulated crimps, where you're
> effectively putting an extra connection into the wiring loom, which is
> likely to cause far more problems than a fully sealed crimp connection.
> Plus, they don't take up that much room.

I'm not quite sure what you mean. A proper uninsulated terminal designed
for flex is the correct way - and the same as the makers use. You can
examine the quality of the crimp too - something impossible with the
insulated type unless you remove the insulation. And if you do you'll see
what a mess they are.

> I've fitted hundreds of the above mentioned crimps, and have never had
> any fail. I'll admit I've not crimped some correctly, that's why I
> always try pulling them apart before shrinking them to check they're
> crimped correctly.

Oh they may well 'work' for a time. But nothing like as long as a properly
made crimp will. And there's no need to try pulling a proper crimp apart -
you can see if it's properly made.

--
*How's my driving? Call 999*

Dave Plowman dave(a)davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
From: Dave Plowman (News) on
In article <1eJqi.2915$rr5.2575(a)newsfe1-win.ntli.net>,
Chris Whelan <cawhelan(a)ntlworld.com> wrote:
> > I've fitted hundreds of the above mentioned crimps, and have never had
> > any fail. I'll admit I've not crimped some correctly, that's why I
> > always try pulling them apart before shrinking them to check they're
> > crimped correctly.

> In my working life as an electrical technician, I've fitted literally
> tens of thousands of crimp lugs. (I did a lot of industrial control
> panel building.) I've never had one fail, and in some situations the
> environment was more hostile than an automotive one.

> The way to do it is to use the same make of crimp and tool, both
> preferably from A-MP, and to make sure that the lug is the correct size
> for the cable. A ratchet tool is to be preferred for most uses. It is
> also undesirable to introduce more than a single cable in to each lug.

Indeed. A properly designed terminal crimped properly with a proper tool
is ideal. Those red blue and yellow devices satisfy non of those.

--
*Some people are only alive because it is illegal to kill.

Dave Plowman dave(a)davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
From: Duncan Wood on
On Sat, 28 Jul 2007 18:34:40 +0100, Dave Plowman (News)
<dave(a)davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

> In article <1eJqi.2915$rr5.2575(a)newsfe1-win.ntli.net>,
> Chris Whelan <cawhelan(a)ntlworld.com> wrote:
>> > I've fitted hundreds of the above mentioned crimps, and have never had
>> > any fail. I'll admit I've not crimped some correctly, that's why I
>> > always try pulling them apart before shrinking them to check they're
>> > crimped correctly.
>
>> In my working life as an electrical technician, I've fitted literally
>> tens of thousands of crimp lugs. (I did a lot of industrial control
>> panel building.) I've never had one fail, and in some situations the
>> environment was more hostile than an automotive one.
>
>> The way to do it is to use the same make of crimp and tool, both
>> preferably from A-MP, and to make sure that the lug is the correct size
>> for the cable. A ratchet tool is to be preferred for most uses. It is
>> also undesirable to introduce more than a single cable in to each lug.
>
> Indeed. A properly designed terminal crimped properly with a proper tool
> is ideal. Those red blue and yellow devices satisfy non of those.
>


Well the CEGB used to happily use AMP CertiGrips. PIDGs aren't unusual
either. Of course if you're buying cheap nasty ones then you'll get what
you paid for.
From: PC Paul on
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>
> Indeed. A properly designed terminal crimped properly with a proper tool
> is ideal. Those red blue and yellow devices satisfy non of those.
>

I'll go along with that - and I've used crimp connectoras in a lot of
situations, up to and including mil-spec, airborne. Which is quite fussy.

I've never liked pre-insulated crimps, and the cheap crimpers with just
an arc to squash the crimp roughly towards the wire are a joke. For this
loom repair job, bare butt (!) splice crimps and heatshrink would be
the way to go. A bare crimp connector can be crimped well with
needlenose pliers, once you know what it should look like, and if you do
both sides separately and evenly. Much easier with a decent crimper though.

Solder can be fine in it's place - but you have to be able to make a
good mechanical joint with the bare wires *first*, before you even apply
the solder. Which you can't really do for a butt joint.



From: Conor on
In article <5gup84F3hjtglU1(a)mid.individual.net>, Zomoniac says...

>
> Well apparently you're too stupid to be able to spell "centre"...
>
And you're too stupid to realise there's two versions with different
spellings and definitions..


--
Conor

It arrived at their repair center last week so only another month or so
to wait