From: Dave Plowman (News) on 28 Jul 2007 13:32 In article <f8fgv0$516$1$830fa79d(a)news.demon.co.uk>, moray <mtb_hyphen_rules(a)hotmail.co.uk> wrote: > "Dave Plowman (News)" <dave(a)davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message > news:4f097cd7dbdave(a)davenoise.co.uk... > > In article <f8fb9i$4dg$1$8300dec7(a)news.demon.co.uk>, > > moray <mtb_hyphen_rules(a)hotmail.co.uk> wrote: > >> Goto rswww.com and put in part no. 528-9264. That's the ideal type of > >> connector for wiring repairs (they can be found else where far cheaper > >> though), but make sure you use the right size for the wire (red covers > >> most car applications, blue for bigger wires, and if needed, yellow for > >> heavy wires), and use a decent pair of crimping pliers. Crimp it on, and > >> before shrinking it, give the wires a pull to make sure it's crimped > >> right. Then heat it up, and make sure the glue bubbles out each end so > >> it's fully sealed. > > > > You've obviously not read my previous post on the subject. These > > connectors make a poor crimp on flex unless it is *exactly* the right > > size. They are a bodge and should be avoided. Better no more expensive > > solutions exist. > Well if they make that bad a connection, then why do the big car > manufacturer's recommend them for wiring repairs, and use them when > contructing looms? The answer is they don't use them when making looms. Nor have I seen any of them recommend them for repairs. Looms don't usually need any repairs - and a maker would recommend replacement if accident damaged. > The main thing is to use the right one for the given wiring size (far > too many people just use blue crimps, when they should really be using > red ones), and to use a good pair of crimping pliers. There is no right *one* - they all cover a range of cable sizes which is the main problem. > They're a far better option than using uninsulated crimps, where you're > effectively putting an extra connection into the wiring loom, which is > likely to cause far more problems than a fully sealed crimp connection. > Plus, they don't take up that much room. I'm not quite sure what you mean. A proper uninsulated terminal designed for flex is the correct way - and the same as the makers use. You can examine the quality of the crimp too - something impossible with the insulated type unless you remove the insulation. And if you do you'll see what a mess they are. > I've fitted hundreds of the above mentioned crimps, and have never had > any fail. I'll admit I've not crimped some correctly, that's why I > always try pulling them apart before shrinking them to check they're > crimped correctly. Oh they may well 'work' for a time. But nothing like as long as a properly made crimp will. And there's no need to try pulling a proper crimp apart - you can see if it's properly made. -- *How's my driving? Call 999* Dave Plowman dave(a)davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound.
From: Dave Plowman (News) on 28 Jul 2007 13:34 In article <1eJqi.2915$rr5.2575(a)newsfe1-win.ntli.net>, Chris Whelan <cawhelan(a)ntlworld.com> wrote: > > I've fitted hundreds of the above mentioned crimps, and have never had > > any fail. I'll admit I've not crimped some correctly, that's why I > > always try pulling them apart before shrinking them to check they're > > crimped correctly. > In my working life as an electrical technician, I've fitted literally > tens of thousands of crimp lugs. (I did a lot of industrial control > panel building.) I've never had one fail, and in some situations the > environment was more hostile than an automotive one. > The way to do it is to use the same make of crimp and tool, both > preferably from A-MP, and to make sure that the lug is the correct size > for the cable. A ratchet tool is to be preferred for most uses. It is > also undesirable to introduce more than a single cable in to each lug. Indeed. A properly designed terminal crimped properly with a proper tool is ideal. Those red blue and yellow devices satisfy non of those. -- *Some people are only alive because it is illegal to kill. Dave Plowman dave(a)davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound.
From: Duncan Wood on 28 Jul 2007 14:25 On Sat, 28 Jul 2007 18:34:40 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) <dave(a)davenoise.co.uk> wrote: > In article <1eJqi.2915$rr5.2575(a)newsfe1-win.ntli.net>, > Chris Whelan <cawhelan(a)ntlworld.com> wrote: >> > I've fitted hundreds of the above mentioned crimps, and have never had >> > any fail. I'll admit I've not crimped some correctly, that's why I >> > always try pulling them apart before shrinking them to check they're >> > crimped correctly. > >> In my working life as an electrical technician, I've fitted literally >> tens of thousands of crimp lugs. (I did a lot of industrial control >> panel building.) I've never had one fail, and in some situations the >> environment was more hostile than an automotive one. > >> The way to do it is to use the same make of crimp and tool, both >> preferably from A-MP, and to make sure that the lug is the correct size >> for the cable. A ratchet tool is to be preferred for most uses. It is >> also undesirable to introduce more than a single cable in to each lug. > > Indeed. A properly designed terminal crimped properly with a proper tool > is ideal. Those red blue and yellow devices satisfy non of those. > Well the CEGB used to happily use AMP CertiGrips. PIDGs aren't unusual either. Of course if you're buying cheap nasty ones then you'll get what you paid for.
From: PC Paul on 28 Jul 2007 15:07 Dave Plowman (News) wrote: > > Indeed. A properly designed terminal crimped properly with a proper tool > is ideal. Those red blue and yellow devices satisfy non of those. > I'll go along with that - and I've used crimp connectoras in a lot of situations, up to and including mil-spec, airborne. Which is quite fussy. I've never liked pre-insulated crimps, and the cheap crimpers with just an arc to squash the crimp roughly towards the wire are a joke. For this loom repair job, bare butt (!) splice crimps and heatshrink would be the way to go. A bare crimp connector can be crimped well with needlenose pliers, once you know what it should look like, and if you do both sides separately and evenly. Much easier with a decent crimper though. Solder can be fine in it's place - but you have to be able to make a good mechanical joint with the bare wires *first*, before you even apply the solder. Which you can't really do for a butt joint.
From: Conor on 28 Jul 2007 16:18
In article <5gup84F3hjtglU1(a)mid.individual.net>, Zomoniac says... > > Well apparently you're too stupid to be able to spell "centre"... > And you're too stupid to realise there's two versions with different spellings and definitions.. -- Conor It arrived at their repair center last week so only another month or so to wait |