Rewire Ford Focus
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From: Conor on 28 Jul 2007 16:21 In article <87vec4kdhd.fsf(a)odie.internal.unix-consult.com>, Timo Geusch says... > Chris Bartram <news(a)delete.me.piglet-net.net> writes: > > > Dave Plowman (News) wrote: > > [snip] > >> However, any loom can be repaired. It would however require a skilled > >> person to do the job correctly. Most mechanics and so called auto > >> electricians bodge such things. The standard red blue and yellow > >> electrical crimp terminals most use are really not up to the job and > >> proper car connectors should be used instead. This is a source of such > >> connectors and the correct wire if needed. > >> > >> http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php > >> > > > > My choice is to solder and heatshrink on the few wiring repairs I've > > had to do. Properly done it's better than any crimp, and neater. > > It's also a hell of a lot more prone to break due to vibration. > Solder and heatshrink? You think? -- Conor It arrived at their repair center last week so only another month or so to wait
From: Conor on 28 Jul 2007 16:23 In article <46ab7564$0$1617$ed2619ec(a)ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net>, says... > Solder is fine so long as you can keep the joint and surrounding wire > immobile (say if it runs down the sills), it's not normally the solder that > fails but the wire at the end of the solder. > Does nobody here tin the wires before soldering them together? -- Conor It arrived at their repair center last week so only another month or so to wait
From: Conor on 28 Jul 2007 16:24 In article <1eJqi.2915$rr5.2575(a)newsfe1-win.ntli.net>, Chris Whelan says... > In my working life as an electrical technician, I've fitted literally tens > of thousands of crimp lugs. (I did a lot of industrial control panel > building.) I've never had one fail, and in some situations the environment > was more hostile than an automotive one. > How many of them were subject to years of damp and water ingress? -- Conor It arrived at their repair center last week so only another month or so to wait
From: Chris Whelan on 28 Jul 2007 16:31 Conor wrote: > In article <1eJqi.2915$rr5.2575(a)newsfe1-win.ntli.net>, Chris Whelan > says... > >> In my working life as an electrical technician, I've fitted literally >> tens of thousands of crimp lugs. (I did a lot of industrial control panel >> building.) I've never had one fail, and in some situations the >> environment was more hostile than an automotive one. >> > How many of them were subject to years of damp and water ingress? Lots. For far more years than would be likely if used on a car. (I worked on the same site for 36 years!) Of course, there is no reason why a crimped connector (as opposed to a lug) could not be further protected using shrink sleeving in the same way as would be needed for a soldered joint. Also, many of the crimp lugs I used were on moving systems (on filling and packaging production machines) where a soldered joint would literally have failed in minutes. I know, because I tried... Many regulating bodies for electrical installations worldwide deprecated soldered joints long ago. Chris. -- Remove prejudice to reply.
From: Timo Geusch on 28 Jul 2007 16:34
Conor wrote: > In article <87vec4kdhd.fsf(a)odie.internal.unix-consult.com>, Timo > Geusch says... > > Chris Bartram <news(a)delete.me.piglet-net.net> writes: > > > > > Dave Plowman (News) wrote: > > > [snip] > > >> However, any loom can be repaired. It would however require a > > skilled >> person to do the job correctly. Most mechanics and so > > called auto >> electricians bodge such things. The standard red > > blue and yellow >> electrical crimp terminals most use are really > > not up to the job and >> proper car connectors should be used > > instead. This is a source of such >> connectors and the correct > > wire if needed. > > > > > > >> > > http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage. > > php > > > > > > > > > > My choice is to solder and heatshrink on the few wiring repairs > > > I've had to do. Properly done it's better than any crimp, and > > > neater. > > > > It's also a hell of a lot more prone to break due to vibration. > > > Solder and heatshrink? You think? No. I *know*. It's a reoccuring problem that I have to track down on some bikes I own/owned (the vibration on bikes is usually worse than on cars but the same thing applies to cars) - some alarm fitter solders a connection, covers it in heatshrink. Five years down the line, you've got an intermittent fault that you finally track down to the broken connection inside the heatshrink tube, because the stiff connection has broken. If you solder it properly it's less prone to breakage but overall the issue is that you've got something flexible (two cables) joined together by something inflexible (the soldered joint) without any other form of mechanical protection. Mind you, my favourites are those people who tin the end of a cable and then crimp on a connector... -- '89 Mazda RX-7 Convertible '92 Mazda RX-7 |