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From: Mariachi on 13 May 2007 00:05
On May 12, 11:53 pm, I. Care <i...(a)spamthis.com> wrote:
> In article <1179027667.707956.129...(a)h2g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>,
> jpgarcia...(a)hotmail.com says...
>
> > On May 12, 11:27 pm, I. Care <i...(a)spamthis.com> wrote:
> > > In article <1178996230.922510.176...(a)l77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,
> > > jpgarcia...(a)hotmail.com says...> If you don't know
> > > > electronics and the concept of impedance matching.. you will not
> > > > understand the concept and purpose of different impedance speakers.
> > > > The sensitivity of a speaker is basically...
>
> > > Since it appears you responded to my comments I will respond to yours.
>
> > > What makes you think I don't understand electronics and impedance?
>
> > > Was anything I posted incorrect?
>
> > > Does 34+ years in a complex electronics trade qualify me to talk about
> > > electronics? That includes an electronics calibration laboratory and 15
> > > years as a supervisor at the facility.
>
> > > In addition I competed in IASCA for a couple of years.
> > > --
> > > I. Care
> > > Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-}
>
> > dude... did i say you were incorrect? For all i know you probably
> > know a lot more than I do. I was elaborating on what you said and was
> > discrediting Bob Wald for what he had said. When I said, "If you
> > don't know electronics"... I meant you as in general to all people who
> > don't know electronics.
>
> Thank you for the explanation. When you apparently responded/commented
> on my post without mentioning any other persons name or post I
> apparently misunderstood it to be specifically directed at me.
> --
> I. Care
> Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-}

My bad for not explaining it.

From: bob wald on 13 May 2007 07:39
my= may. i'm on a wireless keyboard. sometimes it misses a letter..sorry
you cant figure out a 3letter word.with 1 letter missing.lol
n you think you can wire a car?lol
i dout you are able to jump start a car even...lol

From: s3sqguy on 18 May 2007 16:00

A T/A? Sweet old school, I did a lot of those. What I always looked for
is a 6X9 that was coax, because the smaller the tweeter part the more
bass it made. You had to listen to them of course that was just a vague
rule. It depends on the power you will use like said above, around 40w
rms speaker would tend to be more efficient and work better on deck
power. I like infinity but there are others.
So I look for the best bass and mid bass when I compare and ignore the
tweeter, except I don't want a loud tweeter or you will hear it too
much in front. A higher pitch sounding tweeter that is not loud/bright
worked best for me, maybe soft but precise? Not sure how to explain.
The front is problematic, I ran 4" low and 1" dome above the crank
handle. I used 8 ohm home 1" soft domes often, sounded great with the
right cap (smaller one) and gave good staging.

What you really need is to get 4 IB capable 10" subs and put two
between the 6x9, and two more into the back seat. You should have just
enough room to fit two amps between the 10s into the seat. You don't
need that much power with free air 10", run them at 2 ohms on a quality
80-125wrms/ch amp and that is plenty, it pounds. That car is a bass horn
I swear, sometimes I wish I still had one. 30hz was no problem, even
with old paper pyramid subs they hammered.


--
s3sqguy
From: Ed.Toronto on 14 Jun 2007 18:41
On May 18, 4:00 pm, s3sqguy <s3sqguy.2qs...(a)no-
mx.forum.carstereos.org> wrote:
> A T/A? Sweet old school, I did a lot of those. What I always looked for
> is a6X9that was coax, because the smaller the tweeter part the more
> bass it made. You had to listen to them of course that was just a vague
> rule. It depends on the power you will use like said above, around 40w
> rms speaker would tend to be more efficient and work better on deck
> power. I like infinity but there are others.

I wound up getting Boston Acoustics SL95s. More than I wanted to
spend, but they sound pretty good. The real reason was the small
magnet size, so the mounting depth is less than any other speakers
whose specs I looked up.

The spare tire no longer squeezes against the speaker magnet. Yay!

> So I look for the best bass and mid bass when I compare and ignore the
> tweeter, except I don't want a loud tweeter or you will hear it too
> much in front. A higher pitch sounding tweeter that is not loud/bright
> worked best for me, maybe soft but precise? Not sure how to explain.
> The front is problematic, I ran 4" low and 1" dome above the crank
> handle. I used 8 ohm home 1" soft domes often, sounded great with the
> right cap (smaller one) and gave good staging.

The SL95s have a nice smooth treble. Well, I also have a different
deck (Blaupunkt). With the Clarion deck and Boston Acoustics 797, I
always had to run a notch or two down on treble. Not with the current
setup, for most music.

> What you really need is to get 4 IB capable 10" subs and put two
> between the6x9, and two more into the back seat. You should have just
> enough room to fit two amps between the 10s into the seat.

Eh, but where would I put the T-tops? I always put them in the back
seat.

I went through the subwoofer thing with my '69 Firebird convertible.
Conclusion: subwoofers in trunks of convertibles don't do much.
Never mind that it was a Pyle Driver I was using.

> You don't
> need that much power with free air 10", run them at 2 ohms on a quality
> 80-125wrms/ch amp and that is plenty, it pounds. That car is a bass horn
> I swear, sometimes I wish I still had one. 30hz was no problem, even
> with old paper pyramid subs they hammered.

I agree. The 6x9s give me more or less enough bass. Most of my
listening in the car is '70s-'80s pop. Some classical. Doesn't
really need to pound, but getting a bit of a buzz in the chest is okay
from time to time.

.....Ed

From: Mariachi on 14 Jun 2007 23:33
On Jun 14, 6:41 pm, Ed.Toro...(a)gmail.com wrote:
> On May 18, 4:00 pm, s3sqguy <s3sqguy.2qs...(a)no-
>
> mx.forum.carstereos.org> wrote:
> > A T/A? Sweet old school, I did a lot of those. What I always looked for
> > is a6X9that was coax, because the smaller the tweeter part the more
> > bass it made. You had to listen to them of course that was just a vague
> > rule. It depends on the power you will use like said above, around 40w
> > rms speaker would tend to be more efficient and work better on deck
> > power. I like infinity but there are others.
>
> I wound up getting Boston Acoustics SL95s. More than I wanted to
> spend, but they sound pretty good. The real reason was the small
> magnet size, so the mounting depth is less than any other speakers
> whose specs I looked up.
>
> The spare tire no longer squeezes against the speaker magnet. Yay!
>
> > So I look for the best bass and mid bass when I compare and ignore the
> > tweeter, except I don't want a loud tweeter or you will hear it too
> > much in front. A higher pitch sounding tweeter that is not loud/bright
> > worked best for me, maybe soft but precise? Not sure how to explain.
> > The front is problematic, I ran 4" low and 1" dome above the crank
> > handle. I used 8 ohm home 1" soft domes often, sounded great with the
> > right cap (smaller one) and gave good staging.
>
> The SL95s have a nice smooth treble. Well, I also have a different
> deck (Blaupunkt). With the Clarion deck and Boston Acoustics 797, I
> always had to run a notch or two down on treble. Not with the current
> setup, for most music.
>
> > What you really need is to get 4 IB capable 10" subs and put two
> > between the6x9, and two more into the back seat. You should have just
> > enough room to fit two amps between the 10s into the seat.
>
> Eh, but where would I put the T-tops? I always put them in the back
> seat.
>
> I went through the subwoofer thing with my '69 Firebird convertible.
> Conclusion: subwoofers in trunks of convertibles don't do much.
> Never mind that it was a Pyle Driver I was using.
>
> > You don't
> > need that much power with free air 10", run them at 2 ohms on a quality
> > 80-125wrms/ch amp and that is plenty, it pounds. That car is a bass horn
> > I swear, sometimes I wish I still had one. 30hz was no problem, even
> > with old paper pyramid subs they hammered.
>
> I agree. The 6x9s give me more or less enough bass. Most of my
> listening in the car is '70s-'80s pop. Some classical. Doesn't
> really need to pound, but getting a bit of a buzz in the chest is okay
> from time to time.
>
> ....Ed

There are some 6x9's that are specially made to act as subwoofers.
You just got to know which ones to get. For me, I never was
interested in having massive heavy deafening bass that these kids brag
about these days. I just wanted just enough bass to give a bassy
feeling to the music and enough to make your mirrors shake a little
bit. I have to admit that without bass some music just sucks. I
happen to think that hard rock and heavy metal require a decent amount
of bass but not overpowering bass. On the other hand, heavy accurate
pounding bass is pretty much a necessity with techno, rap, dance, and
electronica. Classical and soft rock can do with very little bass.
Since I like hard rock, alternative rock, electronica, and heavy metal
the best; I could mange with just a good set of 6x9's with an
amplifier, no subwoofer really needed. My 6x9's pump out a lot of
bass just with the power from the deck; so much bass that kids think I
have a subwoofer inside. When I tell them I don't have one, they
don't believe it at first until i show them it's mostly my 6x9's that
are producing the bass. I can pump each 6x9 to 100 Watts, so 200
Watts total. Those things can make you go deaf if you're not
careful. The retail price on them are about 150 dollars, but I got
them over on ebay for 50 dollars.

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