From: jim on

Mike Romain wrote:
> jim wrote:
> >
> > jim wrote:
> >
> >> . That would be an indication of a faulty
> >> cooling system.
> >
> > That should say The thermostat should NOT open all the way
> >
> >
> Well, I for one have never owned one of these mythical vehicles you talk
> about.

What you own is not my fault.

> Mine all warm up to 195 fairly fast so I have heat and after
> that most run about 205-210F. Yes, I have used infrared to verify the
> thermostats on several vehicles, even on a 318.
> This is noted when I drive in the summer and then in the Canadian
> winters. At sub zero temps, my temperature gauges all stay low or at
> the 195 the thermostat is forcing the engine to run at or just out of
> the bottom or 'cold' range. (Yes, the engine gets forced to the
> t-stat's temp, if I use a colder t-stat, the gauge is lower and the
> inside heat is radically lower in the winter)
> Then when I drive in summer, they come up fast to that 195 point and
> then 'rise' up to the center of the gauge for the rest of the trip.
> My engines all run at the margin the rad is designed for, no extra.
> They even have extra fans that come on if I exceed that marginal cooling
> the main rad fan can pull by say putting on an AC pump or if it just
> plain gets up into the boil range, say if I am in 4 wheel low in 100F
> weather.

You are describing a vehicle with inadequate cooling system. And yes your
thermostat is likely to be wide open.

I was talking about cars with adequate cooling capacity (that description fits
most cars on the road). On a hot day in stop and go traffic the engine will
start to get a little warmer and the thermostat will open a little in response
and the cooling fans also come on and the net result is pretty close to normal
gauge temperature is maintained (it will be so close to normal most people with
a gauge don't notice any temp change). That normal temp will be pretty much the
same on these cars in winter or summer. Although if it ever does get down to
-40F outside the gauge may drop in temp a wee bit below normal since most
manufacturers consider that extreme temperature to be outside the normal
expected ambient temp range. But I would say at around -10F most cars warm up to


> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos:

----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---
From: cuhulin on
How can I tell if it is a cross flow or top flow radiator? I believe it
is the original radiator that was installed at the factory.

From: Mike Romain on
jim wrote:
> I was talking about cars with adequate cooling capacity (that description fits
> most cars on the road).

The OP was talking about a 78 Dodge Van, not a modern car eh.

From: disston on
About this repair you have in mind, the JB weld. I like the stuff but
I think you need to attack the hole or crack with something other than
steam. You say it is rusty...then use acid or Naval jelly to get rid
of the rust. Steam will not remove the rust. You may also be able to
scrape the area clean enough with your pocket knife to give the epoxy
fresh metal to bond to.

Of course it will be best to replace the timing cover. Replace the
front seal. You will have to remove the vibration dampener. Notice the
grove cut into the dampener by the seal. If very deep then there is a
repair front seal with a chrome collar that gets put over the end of
the dampener. Do it once and you're ready to go.

Have had a lot of these vihicles come in in very weak running
condition... because the mass market, giant, super chain parts stores
carry the worst carburators. Most of them we see all start with a
basic carb rebuild and they run for years after that.

From: cuhulin on
The radiator has verticle tubes, a top tank and a bottom tank.The old
worn out REX (brand name) radiator cap says 15 - 18 LBS.The bottom tank
has a petcock valve for draining the radiator fluid and there are two
places on the bottom tank where the automatic transmission lines are
connected to the radiator.I reckon it is a down flow, or top flow

The little steamer gadget seems to work ok but it is slow.I think I have
an old quart can of engine degreaser stuff around here somewhere.I am
going to see if I can speed things up with that.

I know about rust, rust never sleeps.I think the best way I can remove
the rust from that hole area is with a little round wire brush or
toothbtush wire brush.Because the hole is in a hard to reach area.