From: Feral on
John_H wrote:

> There's nothing whatsoever wrong with those old W&B's (valve refacer
> or seating stones) provided they're properly maintained and no one's
> lost the diamond dresser. Just don't expect to earn the current
> hourly rate stoning seats. :)
>
> FWIW I've known blokes who cut the seats with a Serdi and finish the
> job with a syncro stone (one that's been dressed on the valve
> refacer)... which remains the absolute best method of seating valves.

I know this is for a Harley, but I use these type of cutters
for bigger valve seats. Not quite a Serdi. :-)

--
Take Care. ~~
Feral Al ( @..@)
(\- :-P -/)
((.>__oo__<.))
^^^ % ^^^
From: John_H on
Feral wrote:
>
>BTW I did stone the seats and face the valves, then lapped
>them. Noddy will never believe (conceited prick), that someone
>else can do valve jobs, but I've never had one fail, yet. ;-)

If you've got the right equipment then why bother to lap?

Unless you're using a very ancient expanding pilot (as opposed to the
pilots that mount in the arbor) syncro seating is a breeze... though
it always amazes me as to how many garage mechanics who've got the
necessary equipment don't!

Even using interference angles (the alternative to syncro seating) is
vastly superior to a lapped finish.

Easiest effective way to test the seal is petrol IMO. For sv's pour a
bit around the valve head margin and check that it doesn't wet the
port side of the seat (you might need a dental mirror if the engine's
in situ). Save the blue for bearings! :)

--
John H
From: Noddy on

"John_H" <john4721(a)inbox.com> wrote in message
news:gmira5h7t869vrdh05q4ec7fkrjjj2trki(a)4ax.com...

> FWIW I've known blokes who cut the seats with a Serdi and finish the
> job with a syncro stone (one that's been dressed on the valve
> refacer)... which remains the absolute best method of seating valves.

It is, and that's precisely the way we used to do them at Repco.

Serdi make a *brilliant* machine and we had a 100 series machine in our
shop. I absolutely loved using it as it was the Duck's guts of seat cutting
machines but as good as it was a light touch with the stone after you'd cut
the seat was usually required to take out any minor tool marks and make sure
you had a solid seal. It was also necessary to dress the stone on the same
machine you used to face the valves as it ensured a perfect seat.

--
Regards,
Noddy.



From: Feral on
John_H wrote:

> If you've got the right equipment then why bother to lap?

It is fairly old equipment. I lap (read lick and promise with
no real grinding going on) mainly to reassure myself that the
faces are mating nicely.

> Easiest effective way to test the seal is petrol IMO. For sv's pour a
> bit around the valve head margin and check that it doesn't wet the
> port side of the seat (you might need a dental mirror if the engine's
> in situ). Save the blue for bearings! :)

I stand on my head and I can see into the port. :-)

I aint goin anywhere near the bottom end unless I have to.

--
Take Care. ~~
Feral Al ( @..@)
(\- :-P -/)
((.>__oo__<.))
^^^ % ^^^
From: John_H on
Feral wrote:
>John_H wrote:
>
>> Easiest effective way to test the seal is petrol IMO. For sv's pour a
>> bit around the valve head margin and check that it doesn't wet the
>> port side of the seat (you might need a dental mirror if the engine's
>> in situ). Save the blue for bearings! :)
>
>I stand on my head and I can see into the port. :-)
>
>I aint goin anywhere near the bottom end unless I have to.

Silly me! I always spent the extra ten minutes and removed the
manifolds. :)

Made it a lot easier to get to the valve chest as well! :)

--
John H