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From: Feral on 14 Sep 2009 01:39 John_H wrote: > There's nothing whatsoever wrong with those old W&B's (valve refacer > or seating stones) provided they're properly maintained and no one's > lost the diamond dresser. Just don't expect to earn the current > hourly rate stoning seats. :) > > FWIW I've known blokes who cut the seats with a Serdi and finish the > job with a syncro stone (one that's been dressed on the valve > refacer)... which remains the absolute best method of seating valves. I know this is for a Harley, but I use these type of cutters for bigger valve seats. Not quite a Serdi. :-) -- Take Care. ~~ Feral Al ( @..@) (\- :-P -/) ((.>__oo__<.)) ^^^ % ^^^
From: John_H on 14 Sep 2009 01:43 Feral wrote: > >BTW I did stone the seats and face the valves, then lapped >them. Noddy will never believe (conceited prick), that someone >else can do valve jobs, but I've never had one fail, yet. ;-) If you've got the right equipment then why bother to lap? Unless you're using a very ancient expanding pilot (as opposed to the pilots that mount in the arbor) syncro seating is a breeze... though it always amazes me as to how many garage mechanics who've got the necessary equipment don't! Even using interference angles (the alternative to syncro seating) is vastly superior to a lapped finish. Easiest effective way to test the seal is petrol IMO. For sv's pour a bit around the valve head margin and check that it doesn't wet the port side of the seat (you might need a dental mirror if the engine's in situ). Save the blue for bearings! :) -- John H
From: Noddy on 14 Sep 2009 02:44 "John_H" <john4721(a)inbox.com> wrote in message news:gmira5h7t869vrdh05q4ec7fkrjjj2trki(a)4ax.com... > FWIW I've known blokes who cut the seats with a Serdi and finish the > job with a syncro stone (one that's been dressed on the valve > refacer)... which remains the absolute best method of seating valves. It is, and that's precisely the way we used to do them at Repco. Serdi make a *brilliant* machine and we had a 100 series machine in our shop. I absolutely loved using it as it was the Duck's guts of seat cutting machines but as good as it was a light touch with the stone after you'd cut the seat was usually required to take out any minor tool marks and make sure you had a solid seal. It was also necessary to dress the stone on the same machine you used to face the valves as it ensured a perfect seat. -- Regards, Noddy.
From: Feral on 14 Sep 2009 03:03 John_H wrote: > If you've got the right equipment then why bother to lap? It is fairly old equipment. I lap (read lick and promise with no real grinding going on) mainly to reassure myself that the faces are mating nicely. > Easiest effective way to test the seal is petrol IMO. For sv's pour a > bit around the valve head margin and check that it doesn't wet the > port side of the seat (you might need a dental mirror if the engine's > in situ). Save the blue for bearings! :) I stand on my head and I can see into the port. :-) I aint goin anywhere near the bottom end unless I have to. -- Take Care. ~~ Feral Al ( @..@) (\- :-P -/) ((.>__oo__<.)) ^^^ % ^^^
From: John_H on 14 Sep 2009 03:20
Feral wrote: >John_H wrote: > >> Easiest effective way to test the seal is petrol IMO. For sv's pour a >> bit around the valve head margin and check that it doesn't wet the >> port side of the seat (you might need a dental mirror if the engine's >> in situ). Save the blue for bearings! :) > >I stand on my head and I can see into the port. :-) > >I aint goin anywhere near the bottom end unless I have to. Silly me! I always spent the extra ten minutes and removed the manifolds. :) Made it a lot easier to get to the valve chest as well! :) -- John H |