From: Fredxx on

"Jim K" <jk989898(a)googlemail.com> wrote in message
news:1a9ae034-33c5-4304-812f-3092fd4e1833(a)u26g2000yqu.googlegroups.com...
> On 22 July, 21:32, "Fredxx" <fre...(a)spam.com> wrote:
>> "Jim K" <jk989...(a)googlemail.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:fb104014-e5be-4727-a524-8e19fc89b97c(a)z10g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>
>>
>> > On 22 July, 20:43, "steve robinson" <st...(a)colevalleyinteriors.co.uk>
>> > wrote:
>> >> Fredxx wrote:
>>
>> >> > "Ozie" <u...(a)example.com> wrote in message
>> >> >news:i29oa3$4dj$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>
>> >> > > Been thinking for some time about buying a Welder, i now have an
>> >> > > early VW camper which needs quite a bit of new metal if its ever
>> >> > > going to pass an mot. So what do i buy, what would be the
>> >> > > easiest to learn too use by a complete novice.
>>
>> >> > > Thanks
>>
>> >> > Gas is very expensive and a good compromise is to use gasless wire.
>> >> > It does spatter a lot more, but after cleaning up the weld is more
>> >> > than adequate.
>>
>> >> Its not that easy to use on car bodywork though as it tends to cut
>> >> through .
>>
>> > eh? IIUC on thin sheet gasless MIG wire is worse than MIG wire with
>> > seperate gas? - how so?
>>
>> Its down to conductivity of the shielding gas. You can get differing
>> ratios
>> of argon, CO2 and O2 depending on thickness of material and depth of
>> weld.
>>
>> I concede that the shielding gas is better than "gas" from gasless wire,
>> but
>> its effect can be offset by using a lower welding current.
>
> ...yebbut..... he is specifically referencing thin material (car
> bodywork).... why do you and he believe it's *harder* to weld thin
> stuff with gasless wire vs gas and ordinary wire?
>

Thin metal is prone to "blowing" holes, but only if very thin and ought to
be plated anyhow. With gasless you may have to reduce current wrt gas to
stop this. It also depends on feedrate, charcteristics of welder (current
vs voltage) and the skill of the operator.

I find gasless is more tolerant of unclean metal, it's also largely
unaffected by wind. Each to their own.


From: Mark on
Ozie wrote:

>
> Been thinking for some time about buying a Welder, i now have an early
> VW camper which needs quite a bit of new metal if its ever going to pass
> an mot.
> So what do i buy, what would be the easiest to learn too use by a
> complete novice.
>
> Thanks
>

Depends on how much you are prepared to pay, small hobby Mig welders which
will be ok for car body panels run from �180 upto �500+ for a Portamig 185.,
i would decide�how much you can afford and the ask on
�migweldingforum.co.uk which as another poster has said is _the_ place for
informed advice.
If you have never used one before you need to practise and get your
technique�perfected before you even think of starting on the VW.
unlike this chap��http://i31.tinypic.com/vq4hns.jpg
From: Andy Dingley on
On 22 July, 20:43, "steve robinson" <st...(a)colevalleyinteriors.co.uk>
wrote:

> Its not that easy to use on car bodywork though as it tends to cut
> through .

Are you using the right welder polarity?
From: Dave Plowman (News) on
In article <3lpg465cgkeokqqqvp159o4u9d5g4cj779(a)4ax.com>,
asahartz <asahartz(a)hotMEATPIEmail.com> wrote:
> I have a SIP Migmate 130 (which many won't recommend, but I find it a
> distinct improvement on my previous Clarke). When the swan-neck failed I
> found it had to have a whole new gun at �60! (Clarke MIGs and
> Eurotorches have replaceable swan-necks at about a tenner). For a few
> ��� more I got a Eurotorch conversion - this transformed the usability
> of the welder and gives the added advantage of a 4 metre pipe so I don't
> have to keep moving my welder.

You can fit a Clarke swan neck to the SIP. You then have to use the Clarke
shrouds, but everything else is the same.

One tip is to use anti-spatter spray into the nozzle. Tips etc last much
longer then.

--
*Warning: Dates in Calendar are closer than they appear.

Dave Plowman dave(a)davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
From: Fredxx on

"Andy Dingley" <dingbat(a)codesmiths.com> wrote in message
news:de442991-ca06-4e13-8e58-5fbd1a7367fa(a)d37g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
> On 22 July, 20:43, "steve robinson" <st...(a)colevalleyinteriors.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
>> Its not that easy to use on car bodywork though as it tends to cut
>> through .
>
> Are you using the right welder polarity?

I've read an number of articles which suggest it doesn't make much
difference and that its more the current/voltage characteristics which are
more important.

My MIG is wired for gas, and my understanding the ideal polarity is the
reverse for gasless wire, yet I can make satisfactory welds. If you have an
alternative experience I would like to hear them.