From: Ozie on 22 Jul 2010 10:32 Been thinking for some time about buying a Welder, i now have an early VW camper which needs quite a bit of new metal if its ever going to pass an mot. So what do i buy, what would be the easiest to learn too use by a complete novice. Thanks -- Oz
From: Duncan Wood on 22 Jul 2010 11:52 On Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:32:42 +0100, Ozie <user(a)example.com> wrote: > > Been thinking for some time about buying a Welder, i now have an early > VW camper which needs quite a bit of new metal if its ever going to pass > an mot. > So what do i buy, what would be the easiest to learn too use by a > complete novice. > > Thanks > Well for a range of opinion from people who've used them then register on migweldingforum.co.uk & read a bit & watch the videos. It depends on how much money you've got (or the extremely low chance you've got 3ph from your storage heating), personally I really like the tiny R-Tech mig welder I've got, whatever you buy think carefully about the gas, the little bottles get expensive very fast.
From: asahartz on 22 Jul 2010 11:54 On Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:32:42 +0100, Ozie <user(a)example.com> wrote: > >Been thinking for some time about buying a Welder, i now have an early >VW camper which needs quite a bit of new metal if its ever going to pass >an mot. >So what do i buy, what would be the easiest to learn too use by a >complete novice. > >Thanks People will give different advice about brands etc, but simple advice I'll give is "get one with a Eurotorch ". I have a SIP Migmate 130 (which many won't recommend, but I find it a distinct improvement on my previous Clarke). When the swan-neck failed I found it had to have a whole new gun at �60! (Clarke MIGs and Eurotorches have replaceable swan-necks at about a tenner). For a few ��� more I got a Eurotorch conversion - this transformed the usability of the welder and gives the added advantage of a 4 metre pipe so I don't have to keep moving my welder. I'm more than happy with the modded SIP, and I do a lot of welding (my VW camper is the only car I haven't had to weld yet but I do need a gearbox!) Have a look here: http://www.welduk.com - he's local to me, so I go to him and he knows what he's talking about. Competitive on price too. -- asahartz woz ere
From: Jules Richardson on 22 Jul 2010 13:02 On Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:32:42 +0100, Ozie wrote: > Been thinking for some time about buying a Welder, i now have an early > VW camper which needs quite a bit of new metal if its ever going to pass > an mot. > So what do i buy, what would be the easiest to learn too use by a > complete novice. I had a mig (170A, IIRC) which served me well enough. I think it cost me about 70 quid (s/h), and possibly something similar for the gas/rental (I got a big tank to use with it). Easy enough to get to grips with on heavier stuff; welding thinner material took more practice. Main gotchas were my having a mask with a fixed screen (offer welding tip up to material, then can't see a bloody thing until trigger is pressed :-) and gaining enough access to the material being welded (sides of vehicles a doddle, undersides not so much without a car lift or inspection pit) cheers Jules
From: Andy Dingley on 22 Jul 2010 13:18
On 22 July, 15:32, Ozie <u...(a)example.com> wrote: > So what do i buy, what would be the easiest to learn too use by a > complete novice. Search past posts, this has been done to death You need a wire-feed MIG welder. Manual stick is cheaper, but no use for bodywork. You can use gas too, but it's harder and much slower. Handy for shaping though. Cheap MIGs are grim, as their wire-feed is poor. Cebora or Butters are about the cheapest you'd be happy to use. Murex have a Tradestig 141 that is getting a good reputation and is about the cheapest of all the useful ones. Gas needs to be an inert mix, not CO2. This means either disposable (pricey!) or renting a cylinder from BOC et al. This is a real pain in the UK 8-( Get an automatic helmet. fantastic things. Also a leather jacket (dirt cheap, really useful under vehicles) and a bright floodlamp. Angle grinder, wire wheel, flap disks etc. & the obvious safety kit. You can never have too many clamps. Night school is good. You need to be "told how to weld" (5 minutes, a book will do it) and then practice a lot. Don't practice on the vehicle you're trying to fix. You need a wheelbarrow full of small mixed clean scrap, then after you've welded that into a solid lump you'll be getting the knack of it. Once you're half-decent, you then need to start sawing your welds in half and testing them to see how they really are. A good book on welding in general is Gibson's "Practical Welding", <http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/0333609573/codesmiths> The theory of wire-feed is vital to understand: * Constant voltage, not constant current (so the arc length is self- regulating and you can do what you like about wire stick-out). * Transfer modes. Spray transfer (very good, needs the power up) Dip transfer (good, what you have to do with thin sheet, bit tricky to get right) Globular transfer (that thing with the pigeons that most amateur welders favour, definitely bad) You learn by winding the dials up and playing with spray transfer on thick stuff, then learning subtlety (lower power and dip transfer) later on. Shaping replacement panels is another story. Fortunately Beetles and campers are both nice thick steel, nothing too weird and have good panel availability. |