From: Pete C. on 21 Mar 2010 14:09 Nate Nagel wrote: > > OK, so I got the hitch ball that I mentioned in my previous post removed > (the less said about that the better, but it involved a very large > Crescent wrench, a pipe wrench, and a 4 foot cheater bar) > > Now I find that I have another "opportunity" as the motivational > speakers would say. > > The truck in question is a '93 F-150, extended cab 2WD if it matters. > The challenge that I'm having is that this trailer hitch that I have is > obviously intended to be located by drilling out two existing holes in > the truck's frame to 1/2", and then drilling two additional holes on > each side. Insert hardware, torque down, et voila. Easy, right? > Welll... not so much. > > It is imperceptible to the casual observer, but placing the hitch under > the truck reveals that the driver's side frame rail is ever so slightly > curved in at the very end - not surprising, as I know that the truck was > rear-ended at least twice prior to my acquiring it, both time requiring > replacement of bumper braces (the main reason I wanted to have the Class > III hitch on there; I don't care what the rating on the bumper says, if > it folds up like wet cardboard when hit from behind, I don't > particularly want to rely on it for a connection to a trailer.) > > So one of the holes that I need to drill is about 1/4" or so from where > it should be. Obviously I can't enlarge a hole off-center, nor do I > have a porta-power. > > Any ideas how I can rectify this myself, or should I just take it to a > frame shop and likely spend about what the truck is worth just to mount > my cheap used trailer hitch on my cheap used truck? Do you think a > sledgehammer is even worth trying? Let Harbor Freight ship you a Port-a-Power clone, they are incredibly useful for all kinds of things.
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