From: OzOne on 20 Feb 2010 18:13
On Sat, 20 Feb 2010 18:22:59 +0800, who where <noone(a)home.net> wrote:
>We're having a slowish coolant loss from a 92 Liberty that is used as
>a daily drive -
It's a Subaru...It's a head gasket.
OzOne of the three twins
I welcome you to Crackerbox Palace.
From: OzOne on 20 Feb 2010 18:14
On Sat, 20 Feb 2010 23:19:57 +1100, "Noddy" <me(a)home.com> wrote:
>"who where" <noone(a)home.net> wrote in message
>> So IF we go the chemical repair route, what's the good gunk nowadays?
>> Back in my teen years, it was BarsLeak but that left the coolant
>> looking like a case of diarrhoea. Any products preferred or to avoid?
>Avoid Barsleak :)
Yeah avoid it....It works....
OzOne of the three twins
I welcome you to Crackerbox Palace.
From: who where on 20 Feb 2010 18:54
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:30:40 +1000, John_H <john4721(a)inbox.com> wrote:
>who where wrote:
>>We're having a slowish coolant loss from a 92 Liberty that is used as
>>a daily drive - well, relative to what it might be. Say 100mls a day
>>reuqired to maintain a constant level in the overflow reservoir. When
>>checked, the radiator level is always at the top unless the overflow
>>res has dropped to below the return pipe. Recently the water pump
>>shat itself, that was replaced and the radiator was cleaned out
>>professionally at the same time.
>What's it been running for a coolant (past and present)?
>The fact that the radiator needed cleaning suggests that cooling
>system maintenance hasn't always been up to scratch and internal
>corrosion might be an issue. In which case the best solution would be
>ditch it while you still you still can. The only chemical sealant I'd
>ever use is Irontite, but I've never used it in an aluminium engine
>and aren't likely too!
>Any of the 50% glycol based coolants (including the Subaru one)
>typically seem to lose around 1 litre p.a. from evaporation. Anything
>more, without any other symptoms, would suggest an external leak.
>Hoses and radiator seams are the common ones, and aren't always
>Was it losing coolant before the radiator and water pump were
>If not I'd be looking very closely at any joint or connection that
>might've been disturbed (as well as the radiator seams). No doubt
>you've already checked the hose clamps. Small leaks are most likely
>to show up when the engine is hot at the end of a reasonably long run.
>Some Subaru engines did, or do, have head gasket issues. IIRC they're
>more recent models than yours but none are immune. Is there any
>chance yours was overheated when he water pump failed?
Followups to all replies:
Car was purchased about 8 months ago, and ran like a dream with no
coolant loss until December, when a small loss started. Stuck the W&B
colling system analyser ("pressure tester") on and located it as the
water pump leak hole. The pump isn't a quick'n'easy job, so it was
left to a pro and the replacement was done 6 Jan. Over the new year
break the loss increased to mammoth proportions as the seal collapsed
big time, so the car was actually tilt-trayed to the repairer - but
ther *may* have been an overheat of note when it dumped.
After the repair (pump/'stat/hoses) it showed signs of radiator
blockage (cool running followed by explosive venting) so the radiator
was serviced. After that, behaviour was as it should be except for
this continuing loss.
Noddy, the plan was to keep the car for a few years.
JJ - yes, pressure test as above. (A few years back I lashed out and
bought a W&B CSA, as borrowing one from a mate was getting tiring for
both of us.) Had a core plug at the back of the block in an FX oldhen
start weeping once, was a real c#nt to find. Coolant won't preclude
the eventual need to flush the system, but it certainly does extend
John, when purchased the cooling system contents were fluorescein
coulured but looked suitably "aged" i.e. the colour was noticeable but
not "yesterday" after a quick change". But prior history was/is an
From: hippo on 20 Feb 2010 19:12
who where wrote:
> We're having a slowish coolant loss from a 92 Liberty that is used as
> a daily drive - well, relative to what it might be. Say 100mls a day
> reuqired to maintain a constant level in the overflow reservoir. When
> checked, the radiator level is always at the top unless the overflow
> res has dropped to below the return pipe. Recently the water pump
> shat itself, that was replaced and the radiator was cleaned out
> professionally at the same time.
> I've always considered that (apart from evaporation) there are only
> three types of water leaks - externally, into the combustion chamber,
> and into the oil galleries/sump.
> Have ruled out the oil way visually (and with a sizzle test), and had
> the cooling system analyser on without finding a damned thing. And
> yes, the carpets are dry and not stinking like a swamp. Combustion
> chamber always remains a possibility even though there are no signs on
> starting, and plug removal doesn't evidence any wetness or spray on
> cranking. Because it is still in the "post-pump-replacement" phase it
> is water, not coolant in there. Yes, I *know* that fluorescein would
> possibly help trace a minute external leak, but hey the CSA does that
> quite well normally.
> So IF we go the chemical repair route, what's the good gunk nowadays?
> Back in my teen years, it was BarsLeak but that left the coolant
> looking like a case of diarrhoea. Any products preferred or to avoid?
> And should the system be refilled after the repair or left alone?
Plastic radiator tanks are prone to cracking on these. IIRC, the leak on
our 91's top tank was small, only showed up once the car was fully hot and
escaped detection on a static cold pressure test. This was 12 years ago
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From: Noddy on 20 Feb 2010 19:38
"who where" <noone(a)home.net> wrote in message
> After the repair (pump/'stat/hoses) it showed signs of radiator
> blockage (cool running followed by explosive venting) so the radiator
> was serviced. After that, behaviour was as it should be except for
> this continuing loss.
It sounds like you've covered all the basics, but just out of curiosity have
you checked the radiator cap? They're an often overlooked component that can
It's possible that it's got a head gasket issue, and while I know you've
checked in this area I'd be going over it again one more time. You mentioned
you looked at everything in this area but I was wondering what the plugs
looked like? You'll generally get a noticeably cleaner one in a cylinder
that's coping a bit of water (which I'm sure you're aware of) and checking
the colour patterns carefully may tell you something.
Does the cooling system actually hold pressure over a considerable period?
Say half an hour or so?