From: who where on
We're having a slowish coolant loss from a 92 Liberty that is used as
a daily drive - well, relative to what it might be. Say 100mls a day
reuqired to maintain a constant level in the overflow reservoir. When
checked, the radiator level is always at the top unless the overflow
res has dropped to below the return pipe. Recently the water pump
shat itself, that was replaced and the radiator was cleaned out
professionally at the same time.

I've always considered that (apart from evaporation) there are only
three types of water leaks - externally, into the combustion chamber,
and into the oil galleries/sump.

Have ruled out the oil way visually (and with a sizzle test), and had
the cooling system analyser on without finding a damned thing. And
yes, the carpets are dry and not stinking like a swamp. Combustion
chamber always remains a possibility even though there are no signs on
starting, and plug removal doesn't evidence any wetness or spray on
cranking. Because it is still in the "post-pump-replacement" phase it
is water, not coolant in there. Yes, I *know* that fluorescein would
possibly help trace a minute external leak, but hey the CSA does that
quite well normally.

So IF we go the chemical repair route, what's the good gunk nowadays?
Back in my teen years, it was BarsLeak but that left the coolant
looking like a case of diarrhoea. Any products preferred or to avoid?
And should the system be refilled after the repair or left alone?
From: who where on

I should have mentioned that the thermostat was also replaced, and the
temperature remains steady on half-scale nowadays. Hoses were also
replaced as a precaution.
From: F Murtz on
who where wrote:
>
> I should have mentioned that the thermostat was also replaced, and the
> temperature remains steady on half-scale nowadays. Hoses were also
> replaced as a precaution.


sodium silicate.
From: Jason James on

"who where" <noone(a)home.net> wrote in message
news:63dvn5tnr0e0bv8tpqkveaa0up8p6cksl7(a)4ax.com...
> We're having a slowish coolant loss from a 92 Liberty that is used as
> a daily drive - well, relative to what it might be. Say 100mls a day
> reuqired to maintain a constant level in the overflow reservoir. When
> checked, the radiator level is always at the top unless the overflow
> res has dropped to below the return pipe. Recently the water pump
> shat itself, that was replaced and the radiator was cleaned out
> professionally at the same time.
>
> I've always considered that (apart from evaporation) there are only
> three types of water leaks - externally, into the combustion chamber,
> and into the oil galleries/sump.
>
> Have ruled out the oil way visually (and with a sizzle test), and had
> the cooling system analyser on without finding a damned thing. And
> yes, the carpets are dry and not stinking like a swamp. Combustion
> chamber always remains a possibility even though there are no signs on
> starting, and plug removal doesn't evidence any wetness or spray on
> cranking. Because it is still in the "post-pump-replacement" phase it
> is water, not coolant in there. Yes, I *know* that fluorescein would
> possibly help trace a minute external leak, but hey the CSA does that
> quite well normally.
>
> So IF we go the chemical repair route, what's the good gunk nowadays?
> Back in my teen years, it was BarsLeak but that left the coolant
> looking like a case of diarrhoea. Any products preferred or to avoid?
> And should the system be refilled after the repair or left alone?

External leaks can be difficult to find. An XF Falcon was leaking
significant amounts of coolant thru a corroded welch-plug which was hidden
from view, under the exhaust maifold. The heat was evaporating the leak.
Have you had a pressure-test? Also,..dont want to be a "told you so", but
using coolant should make any block/head/radiator flushing unnecessary.

Jason


From: John_H on
who where wrote:

>We're having a slowish coolant loss from a 92 Liberty that is used as
>a daily drive - well, relative to what it might be. Say 100mls a day
>reuqired to maintain a constant level in the overflow reservoir. When
>checked, the radiator level is always at the top unless the overflow
>res has dropped to below the return pipe. Recently the water pump
>shat itself, that was replaced and the radiator was cleaned out
>professionally at the same time.

What's it been running for a coolant (past and present)?

The fact that the radiator needed cleaning suggests that cooling
system maintenance hasn't always been up to scratch and internal
corrosion might be an issue. In which case the best solution would be
ditch it while you still you still can. The only chemical sealant I'd
ever use is Irontite, but I've never used it in an aluminium engine
and aren't likely too!

Any of the 50% glycol based coolants (including the Subaru one)
typically seem to lose around 1 litre p.a. from evaporation. Anything
more, without any other symptoms, would suggest an external leak.
Hoses and radiator seams are the common ones, and aren't always
obvious.

Was it losing coolant before the radiator and water pump were
serviced?

If not I'd be looking very closely at any joint or connection that
might've been disturbed (as well as the radiator seams). No doubt
you've already checked the hose clamps. Small leaks are most likely
to show up when the engine is hot at the end of a reasonably long run.

Some Subaru engines did, or do, have head gasket issues. IIRC they're
more recent models than yours but none are immune. Is there any
chance yours was overheated when he water pump failed?

--
John H
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