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From: Geo on 8 Feb 2010 12:54 Over torqued head bolts due to faulty torque wrench (not known at the time). Was suspicious so stopped tightening-thinking I well below required torque. Went and bought new torque wrench. I got clicking right away on some bolts and only slight tightening on others which tells me I am approximately at proper torque but not exact with all. I was hoping I could back off slightly and retorque to proper ft lbs without replacing head gasket...or do I need to get new gasket and start over? Thanks in advance, K
From: Paul on 8 Feb 2010 13:15 Geo wrote: > Over torqued head bolts due to faulty torque wrench (not known at the > time). Was suspicious so stopped tightening-thinking I well below > required torque. Went and bought new torque wrench. I got clicking > right away on some bolts and only slight tightening on others which > tells me I am approximately at proper torque but not exact with all. > I was hoping I could back off slightly and retorque to proper ft lbs > without replacing head gasket...or do I need to get new gasket and > start over? > Thanks in advance, > K Not enough info. Most engines today are made of aluminum. Over torquing ruins the block threads. In addition, modern head bolts are torque stretch. They are not reusable. Over torquing also ruins the head gaskets. The bolts cannot be simply backed off. The gasket has been compressed. Loosening it up will cause leaks now.
From: Scott Dorsey on 8 Feb 2010 16:22 Geo <geo.nova(a)hotmail.com> wrote: >Over torqued head bolts due to faulty torque wrench (not known at the >time). Was suspicious so stopped tightening-thinking I well below >required torque. Went and bought new torque wrench. I got clicking >right away on some bolts and only slight tightening on others which >tells me I am approximately at proper torque but not exact with all. >I was hoping I could back off slightly and retorque to proper ft lbs >without replacing head gasket...or do I need to get new gasket and >start over? Depends on what kind of car it is. If the bolts are stretchable ones, you probably can keep the old gasket but you will need new bolts. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
From: Geo on 8 Feb 2010 18:34 On Feb 8, 4:50 pm, lugnut <lug...(a)roadkill.net> wrote: > On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 09:54:30 -0800 (PST), Geo > > <geo.n...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > >Over torqued head bolts due to faulty torque wrench (not known at the > >time). Was suspicious so stopped tightening-thinking I well below > >required torque. Went and bought new torque wrench. I got clicking > >right away on some bolts and only slight tightening on others which > >tells me I am approximately at proper torque but not exact with all. > >I was hoping I could back off slightly and retorque to proper ft lbs > >without replacing head gasket...or do I need to get new gasket and > >start over? > >Thanks in advance, > >K > > If it were on my car or truck and the engine hasn't been > started or filled with coolant, I would back 'em up 1/2 turn > and come back to correct torque. If your engine uses TTY > bolts that have been over tightened, you may as well pull > the heads and put in new gaskets and head bolts. If this is > a for-pay customer's car your only choice is to replace the > gaskets while it is still handy to work on. Otherwise, it > is damn near guaranteed to fail at 2:30am next to a 10 foot > snow drift 83 miles from home. > > Lugnut It's my own 2000 Honda Odyssey. Head bolts are brand new Honda bolts (all new parts are Honda). They are only slightly overtightened....might I be better off to just leave them? I have one more question regarding removing the water pump If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. For those who may be familiar, the replacement instruction call for using the battery clamp bolt to hold the timing belt auto tensioner. There is the tensioner and then pivot pulley next to it. There is no mention about removing this pivoting pulley but
From: Geo on 8 Feb 2010 18:40 On Feb 8, 6:34 pm, Geo <geo.n...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > On Feb 8, 4:50 pm, lugnut <lug...(a)roadkill.net> wrote: > > > > > > > On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 09:54:30 -0800 (PST), Geo > > > <geo.n...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > > >Over torqued head bolts due to faulty torque wrench (not known at the > > >time). Was suspicious so stopped tightening-thinking I well below > > >required torque. Went and bought new torque wrench. I got clicking > > >right away on some bolts and only slight tightening on others which > > >tells me I am approximately at proper torque but not exact with all. > > >I was hoping I could back off slightly and retorque to proper ft lbs > > >without replacing head gasket...or do I need to get new gasket and > > >start over? > > >Thanks in advance, > > >K > > > If it were on my car or truck and the engine hasn't been > > started or filled with coolant, I would back 'em up 1/2 turn > > and come back to correct torque. If your engine uses TTY > > bolts that have been over tightened, you may as well pull > > the heads and put in new gaskets and head bolts. If this is > > a for-pay customer's car your only choice is to replace the > > gaskets while it is still handy to work on. Otherwise, it > > is damn near guaranteed to fail at 2:30am next to a 10 foot > > snow drift 83 miles from home. > > > Lugnut > > It's my own 2000 Honda Odyssey. Head bolts are brand new Honda bolts > (all new parts are Honda). They are only slightly > overtightened....might I be better off to just leave them? > I have one more question regarding removing the water pump If anyone > can help it would be much appreciated. For those who may be familiar, > the replacement instruction call for using the battery clamp bolt to > hold the timing belt auto tensioner. There is the tensioner and then > pivot pulley next to it. There is no mention about removing this > pivoting pulley but it looks like it must be removed in order to remove pump. Once the timing belt is removed, I am supposed to remove the battery clamp bolt and auto tensioner with no mention of th pivoting pulley. - Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text -
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