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From: Josh on 21 Feb 2010 19:35
> With the engine off grab the clutch and see if you can turn it.

Probably a silly question but I need to ask it anyway: Do I need to
remove the serpentine belt before trying to turn the clutch? And if
it turns freely, does that mean the clutch is OK and the problem is
the compressor (bearings, etc.)?



>I would only buy a compressor from AutoZone if it were new and
>guaranteed, which I dont know if they have.

AutoZone's web page indicates new compressors with clutch are $298,
vs. rebuilt version with 90 day warranties $230-250. Clutches by
themselves are $122. I've been running one of AZ's 12K warranty
rebuilt water pumps for 50K miles now.....guess I'd probably go with
the new compressor since I want to hang onto the Aerostar for another
5 years or more.


>Also your '93 might still be R-12 freon which is expensive. You might
as well get it converted to R-134 too.

Yep, it's an R-12 system. Anyone know if the Aerostar is a good
candidate for conversion to R134, or do major parts have to be
replaced? Wouldn't want to sink $300 into a new compressor only to
find out it won't work with R134.


From: dsi1 on 21 Feb 2010 22:48
On 2/21/2010 2:35 PM, Josh wrote:
>> With the engine off grab the clutch and see if you can turn it.
>
> Probably a silly question but I need to ask it anyway: Do I need to
> remove the serpentine belt before trying to turn the clutch? And if
> it turns freely, does that mean the clutch is OK and the problem is
> the compressor (bearings, etc.)?

You'll have to take the belt off. The problem is that the pulley will be
freewheeling and you'll need to engage the clutch. I don't know if you
can do that unless the engine is running. If you can't, then you might
be able to apply 12 volts to the magnetic clutch by jumping the wires to
the clutch connector. You could also remove the clutch and then try
turning the compressor flange. However, there's not much point in doing
any tests on the clutch since your compressor is locked up. Symptoms of
a bad clutch would be a wobbly clutch cover or clutch slipping - not
locking up. As was mentioned by his, you might have some contamination
of the refrigerant with compressor particles which may require that you
flush out the system and replace the filter/dryer.

>
>
>
>> I would only buy a compressor from AutoZone if it were new and
>> guaranteed, which I dont know if they have.
>
> AutoZone's web page indicates new compressors with clutch are $298,
> vs. rebuilt version with 90 day warranties $230-250. Clutches by
> themselves are $122. I've been running one of AZ's 12K warranty
> rebuilt water pumps for 50K miles now.....guess I'd probably go with
> the new compressor since I want to hang onto the Aerostar for another
> 5 years or more.
>
>
>> Also your '93 might still be R-12 freon which is expensive. You might
> as well get it converted to R-134 too.
>
> Yep, it's an R-12 system. Anyone know if the Aerostar is a good
> candidate for conversion to R134, or do major parts have to be
> replaced? Wouldn't want to sink $300 into a new compressor only to
> find out it won't work with R134.
>
>

From: Scott Dorsey on 22 Feb 2010 11:36
Josh <joshhemming(a)fastmail.fm> wrote:
>AutoZone's web page indicates new compressors with clutch are $298,
>vs. rebuilt version with 90 day warranties $230-250. Clutches by
>themselves are $122. I've been running one of AZ's 12K warranty
>rebuilt water pumps for 50K miles now.....guess I'd probably go with
>the new compressor since I want to hang onto the Aerostar for another
>5 years or more.

I would not buy a compressor from AutoZone. I might even consider a
junkyard part before I bought from them.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
From: m6onz5a on 22 Feb 2010 13:50
On Feb 20, 9:28 pm, Josh <joshhemm...(a)fastmail.fm> wrote:
> My 93 Aerstar has 170,000 miles.  Today when I switched on the Air
> Conditioning I heard a loud squeal from the engine compartment and
> soon smelled burning rubber.  Later when I had a friend switch the AC
> on and off while I observed the compressor, I could see the plate
> initially move in to engage then quickly disengage.  Increasing RPMs
> caused a loud squeal and the burning rubber smell again.  Does this
> sound like the clutch itself has gone bad, or some other problem
> (bearings?) in the compressor?
>
> Assuming it is the clutch, how difficult is it to replace?  Can it be
> done without pulling the compressor?  I read somewhere that special
> tools are required for Ford AC clutch replacement....are those still
> available for loan at AutoZone?  Also, given its age, would I be
> better off in the long run buying a remanufactured compressor and
> clutch, changing it myslf and then having a pro charge the system?

Also if you do go the new/rebuilt compressor route make sure the
system gets flushed properly and you replace the drier & orifice tube
or you will void your warranty. Also make sure your mechanic documents
everything on your workorder so you have proof it was done in case
something goes wrong down the road.
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