From: Milton on 7 May 2010 05:55
"Noddy" <me(a)home.com> wrote in message
> "Clocky" <notgonn(a)happen.com> wrote in message
>> Yet you do what you do despite them... not very clever ;-)
> Sharp as a bowling ball, but then that could hardly surprise anyone around
> here really :)
My vision is perfect, I can easily see what a c#*t you really are! : )
From: Noddy on 7 May 2010 06:41
"Milton" <millame23(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
> My vision is perfect, I can easily see what a c#*t you really are! : )
Shame you can't see the keyboard well enough to write you're own name, huh
From: Jason James on 7 May 2010 17:14
"atec7 7" <""atec77\"@ hotmail.com"> wrote in message
> John McKenzie wrote:
>> Jason James wrote:
>>> Using an arc welder yesterday with a hand-held shield, and managed to
>>> cop a
>>> flash. Now over the years I've heard they can give you a nasty
>>> but I've not experienced anything except a white blob imprinted on my
>>> for about 10 or so minutes. Nothing else has happened.
>> Short answer yes.
> Bloke I worked with 38 years ago ( a scott) was an excellent welder but
> after a while I became aware of him tilting and turning the head , turns
> out he did a similar thing to you one time to many and spot welded some of
> his retina's , basically he stick welded by feel and hearing .
> Since those days I have met a number of welders with similar problems and
> all it takes with the high intensity welders of today is a 1 second burn
> to ruin your sight especially a tig .
Well now I'm actually scared of getting any more. Thanx for the info.
From: John_H on 7 May 2010 20:42
Jason James wrote:
>The helmut can be flipped back moving the visor up and back, or the actual
>glass window can be flipped up leaving the visor in place. I notice on
>"American chopper", young Paulie, flips his wholehelmut. I dont think modern
>helmuts have the facility to flip the darkened glass window.
You don't need that facility with an auto darkening lens!
Prior to which, pro welders preferred a fixed lens helmet because it
kept both hands free. Occassional welders (like me) who hadn't
mastered the art of flicking their head to drop the helmet without
upsetting the coordination of their hand movements mostly preferred
the flip up type.
For those who don't want to spend the extra dollars on an auto
darkening lens... the traditional CIG helmets are still available
either way, or were last time I looked.
From: Jason James on 10 May 2010 04:51
"F Murtz" <haggisz(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message
>F Murtz wrote:
>> Jason James wrote:
>>> Thanx for the info,...I use "general purpose" 2.5mm CIGweld Satincraft
>>> rods,..recommended current = 80amps. I tried the cheaper Chinese rods,
>>> they just weren't up to scratch. Very hard to keep an arc going. Are the
>>> CIG ones more or less OK for work on say L-section steel used in old bed
>>> frames?. The steel is about 5mm thick?
>> If you would like the same sort of rods a lot cheaper,Try national
>> welding supplies at wetherill park Sydney and ask for Wang Chuan Brand
>> AWS E6013 rods, (satincraft is an E6013 rod)
>> They work the same as satincraft.
>>> I watched one of the local exhaust places use a MIG to seal an
>>> joint. He didnt even have to see the whole seam as the pipe was on the
> And if you want a rod that will weld almost anything to anything eg.
> stainless to mild,mild to spring ,stainless to spring etc,
> "gemini 680" from the same place.
Thanx for the info. I know next to nothing about different rods etc. The
mechanic at work had some stainless rods at one stage. They seemed to work
fairly well. The satincraft rods I'm using now, blob up a bit on the
mild-steel job,..I weave the stick to try and get the two halves of the job
to stick. Works, but looks terrible. I grind the ahh excess off. :-)