From: cliff100 on

John Weale Wrote:
> "MrCheerful" nbkm57(a)hotmail.com wrote in message
> news:M0vVh.38907$aB1.1874(a)fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk...-
>
> Mrcheerful
> -
> I just did one. Just make sure you use 60/40 tin/lead solder and not
> the
> lead-free stuff or you will be back with the dry joints that originally
>
> caused the problem.-
> -
> John Weale-
> -


Thanks for that as I would not have realised




--
cliff100
From: PC Paul on
MrCheerful wrote:
> "PC Paul" <urd(a)bitrot.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:%ouVh.3533$Ro3.3251(a)text.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>> MrCheerful wrote:
>>> "cliff100" <cliff100.2p8jbt(a)autobanter.co.uk> wrote in message
>>
>>>> I am sure everyone on here has more experience than me, so any help
>>>> and advice would be appreciated.
>>>>
>>>> Also is this part the sort of thing that would be repaired or just
>>>> changed for new or recon ?
>>>> --
>>>> cliff100
>>>
>>> the throttle body assembly is the problem, but it may be just the
>>> connector to it!!
>>>
>>> With it running, get hold of the connector and wiggle it, any
>>> variation is suspect. Clean the connector and cable tie it in at a
>>> position where it all works OK, this will last for years, believe
>>> me, I have done several !!
>>
>> Can you use a soldering iron?
>>
>> http://www.micra.com.au/technical-articles/cg13de-throttle-body-resoldering-guide.php
>>
>> It's a simple enough job, if you know how to undo a bolt, use silicon
>> sealant and hold the cold end of a soldering iron...
>>
>
> Next one with the same fault I'll try that, thanks.

Don't forget to send me my cut of the 'reconditioned throttle body' cost
that you put on the invoice ;-)

Soldering tip: dry joints will usually be a matt grey colour. Good joints
are shiny silver, even after a long time has passed. But you can't trust the
buggers, you can still have a shiny joint that isn't making good contact.




From: cliff100 on

I have just re soldered the joints and am waiting for my son to get back
with the silicone, can someone tell me. When everything is dryed e.g
silicone is the repair instant or has the engine got to run a while. I
hope I make sense, I didnt want to undo everything again and re solder
if I had to wait for the car to run in or whatever.

Thanks
Cliff




--
cliff100
From: John Weale on

"cliff100" <cliff100.2pe3bu(a)autobanter.co.uk> wrote in message
news:cliff100.2pe3bu(a)autobanter.co.uk...
>
> I have just re soldered the joints and am waiting for my son to get back
> with the silicone, can someone tell me. When everything is dryed e.g
> silicone is the repair instant or has the engine got to run a while. I
> hope I make sense, I didnt want to undo everything again and re solder
> if I had to wait for the car to run in or whatever.
>
> Thanks
> Cliff
>
> --
> cliff100
>
The silicone is used to provide a watertight seal to the cover plate. Allow
a short while for the silicone to cure before running - then that's it..
The article recommends Silastic but any high temperature silicone should
do - I used Tetrasyl form the local Autofactors rated up to 250 deg C.

John Weale


From: PC Paul on
John Weale wrote:
> "cliff100" <cliff100.2pe3bu(a)autobanter.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:cliff100.2pe3bu(a)autobanter.co.uk...
>>
>> I have just re soldered the joints and am waiting for my son to get
>> back with the silicone, can someone tell me. When everything is
>> dryed e.g silicone is the repair instant or has the engine got to
>> run a while. I hope I make sense, I didnt want to undo everything
>> again and re solder if I had to wait for the car to run in or
>> whatever.
>> Thanks
>> Cliff
>>
>> --
>> cliff100
>>
> The silicone is used to provide a watertight seal to the cover plate.
> Allow a short while for the silicone to cure before running - then
> that's it.. The article recommends Silastic but any high temperature
> silicone should do - I used Tetrasyl form the local Autofactors rated up
> to 250 deg C.
>

The electrical side of the repair is instant. You could even run it before
you seal it to check, if you wanted to.