Prev: Prius question
Next: Micra 1.0L Immobiliser Query
From: Duncan Wood on 15 Jun 2010 16:37 On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 13:12:06 +0100, Mrcheerful <nbkm57(a)hotmail.co.uk> wrote: > john hamilton wrote: >> "Mrcheerful" <nbkm57(a)hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message >> news:EWJRn.4127$BF.2704(a)hurricane... >>> john hamilton wrote: >>>> Our car has just developed the exciting feature of not restarting if >>>> you have driven for a bit and then stopped for five minutes or so. >>>> If you waited a few hours it would start again, but now it's not >>>> even doing that. >>>> Yesterday It broke down and the recovery mechanic squirted (eye >>>> witness reported it said 'brake cleaner' on the can) an aerosol into >>>> the air intake and the engine fired up. He then released the nut at >>>> the end of the injector housing and said that petrol was not getting >>>> up there. >>>> He thought the problem was either the fuel shut of valve (which it >>>> turns out this car does not have) or the fuel pump. >>>> >>>> Since its an old corolla (1994 GLi 1.3, 4E-FE engine) and it does >>>> not seem to have any diagnostic system connection [at least nothing >>>> is mentioned about it in the Haynes manual] what would likely be the >>>> cheapest and easiest course of action for a novice to take. >>>> >>>> Is fitting a new fuel pump a specialist job and is it likely to be >>>> anything else that is playing up? >>>> >>>> Is this really a job for a Toyota specialist? I would likely to >>>> have to remorgage the house to take it to a Toyota dealer. I live in >>>> north west London, near Finchley Central. Grateful for any advice, >>>> thanks. >>> >>> when was the fuel filter last changed? >> >> Sorry forgot to mention that was changed very recently. > > generally fuel pumps fail and stay failed. testing fuel pump delivery is > easily done in the workshop, usually I would power the pump directly and > check the delivery pressure. if it will start (with assistance of > something > sprayed in) and keep running then the pump is working. in this case I > would > look first for an air leak. > > the data link connection is under the bonnet and it can be accessed with > a > couple of bits of wire to make the MIL lamp on the dashboard read out the > codes. > > Sounds like an air leak, check the tank end 1st. |