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From: GB on 10 Mar 2010 18:02
Duncan Wood wrote:
>>
>> that would not trace one of the most common drains: the alternator
>
> I'm fairly certain that's not very common, it's just very troublesome.

It would certainly trace the light in the boot and all that sort of problem.

In fact, I first did this over 40 years ago, when I had just learnt about
electricity at school. By the time I located the problem (light in the boot
ofc), my dad had already been sold a new battery and dynamo by the garage.
If I hadn't found it, I think they'd have sold him a new car.




--
Electric cars are very healthy - when the battery runs out you have to
walk home.


From: Dave Plowman (News) on 10 Mar 2010 18:16
In article <mn.550e7da309cae33b.106911(a)NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk>,
Harry Bloomfield <harry.m1byt(a)NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
> Some cars can take quite a bit of initial in rush current when the
> battery is first connected, more than enough to wreck a meter set on a
> 2amp range.

I've had the fuse go on the 10 amp range...

--
*Middle age is when it takes longer to rest than to get tired.

Dave Plowman dave(a)davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
From: Arty Effem on 10 Mar 2010 20:09
On Mar 10, 9:31 am, paulfoel <bertiebigbol...(a)gmail.com> wrote:

> If it is, how do I find out what?

Isolate the different circuits in turn in the following order until
the excess current stops.

Pull out each fuse in turn.

Pull out each relay in turn.

Remove the plug in the back of the alternator. (Usually involves
accessing from underside of car)


From: Harry Bloomfield on 11 Mar 2010 11:16
GB used his keyboard to write :
> It would certainly trace the light in the boot and all that sort of problem.
>
> In fact, I first did this over 40 years ago, when I had just learnt about
> electricity at school. By the time I located the problem (light in the boot
> ofc), my dad had already been sold a new battery and dynamo by the garage. If
> I hadn't found it, I think they'd have sold him a new car.

The easy test is to open the boot, feel the light and if it is warm -
it is staying on. Though some cars are fitted with a battery saver
relay, these turn of the supplies to such things around 30 minutes
after the car has been left undisturbed for that length of time. In
other words leave it parked in the garage with a door open, the
interior light should go out after 30 minutes and not come back on
unless you close then reopen the door.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk


From: rp on 6 Apr 2010 06:26
On Tue, 6 Apr 2010 01:40:19 -0700 (PDT), paulfoel wrote:

>> As I said, it is only 6 months old though....
>
>Hmmm. Tested the battery on Friday 12.6v.
>
>Disconnected for the weekend cos I wasnt using the car - this morning
>12.4v. Not good?

Possibly a red herring if the battery was colder when you tested it
this morning compared to Friday.

Are you doing reasonably long trips? You need to measure the voltage,
start the car and measure the voltage at tickover, again at about 1000
revs or so then repeat the last two with your headlights and heated
rear screen on. You should see somewhere close to 14.5 volts with the
engine running, 12.6 is very low for a charged battery, should be
closer to 13.8v.

If you are getting close to 14.5 with the engine running it's likely
your battery is faulty, providing you are doing reasonable length trips
and not just a couple of miles each way. If you aren't getting that
voltage it's likely to be your alternator/voltage regulator.

If I've gotten the voltages wrong can someone please correct them, my
memory is terrible since I've been ill.

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com


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