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From: Paul on 20 Nov 2009 15:52
asahartz wrote:

>>>
>> wire brush it.
>>
>> Invariably 99% of failures i've had with 'corroded' brake pipes pass
>> after you have brushed the 'corrosion' off...
>
> And you feel safe with that? Surface corrosion is a sign of real
> corrosion, and it only takes a pinhole...
>
> I've often removed brake pipes with apparent surface corrosion which
> have fallen apart in my hands afterwards!

If its good enough for a picky MOT tester, its good enough for me - he
sees 1000 x as many as me.
I've never had a 'corroded brake pipe' fail any subsequent MOT, nor fail
in any shape or form either.
From: Conor on 20 Nov 2009 18:21
In article <k6sdg5595lmme14qcf7lvpv9up7qe87av8(a)4ax.com>, asahartz
says...

> And you feel safe with that? Surface corrosion is a sign of real
> corrosion, and it only takes a pinhole...
>
Copper brakepipes don't corrode.....

> I've often removed brake pipes with apparent surface corrosion which
> have fallen apart in my hands afterwards!

Yes, steel ones.


--
Conor
www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk

I'm not prejudiced. I hate everybody equally.
From: Mrcheerful on 20 Nov 2009 18:29
Re: Can braided,flexible brake lines replace copper pipe?



copper pipes will not corrode


From: Duncan Wood on 20 Nov 2009 21:46
On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:21:06 -0000, Conor <conor(a)gmx.co.uk> wrote:

> In article <k6sdg5595lmme14qcf7lvpv9up7qe87av8(a)4ax.com>, asahartz
> says...
>
>> And you feel safe with that? Surface corrosion is a sign of real
>> corrosion, and it only takes a pinhole...
>>
> Copper brakepipes don't corrode.....
>

What's the green stuff at the joints then?

>> I've often removed brake pipes with apparent surface corrosion which
>> have fallen apart in my hands afterwards!
>
> Yes, steel ones.
>
>

Which is almost all OEM ones
From: Duncan Wood on 20 Nov 2009 21:47
On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:46:43 -0000, asahartz <asahartz(a)hotmeatpiemail.com>
wrote:

> On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:54:53 -0000, "Duncan Wood"
> <nntpnews(a)dmx512.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:13:17 -0000, A.Lee <alan(a)darkroom.+.com> wrote:
>>
>
>>> Cut it, if needed into 2 or 3 bits, then have joints at the breaks to
>>> get it in place when re-fitting?
>>> Or go and buy a flaring kit, and bender and DIY in situ by cutting out
>>> the corroded 3 foot of the pipe?
>>>
>>
>> That's how I do it.
>>
> Perfectly acceptable. But if it's original pipe it's probably steel;
> flaring that in situ is not easy. You'll need a good quality flaring
> tool; the cheap ones from Machine Mart etc will manage copper but not
> steel.

Good point, I did pay real money for this kit.
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