From: A.Lee on 20 Nov 2009 11:13 My van has failed its MOT today on a corroded brake line. It is around 6 foot long, and is rather tortuous in its path, so much so, that I'm not sure if it is possible to replace it without dismantling anything that is bolted on that side of the van. A thought occured, could braided flexible lines, as used on motorcycles, be used in place of this length of copper pipe? If not, what is the best course of action to replace the pipe? Take old one off, get a pattern made? Cut it, if needed into 2 or 3 bits, then have joints at the breaks to get it in place when re-fitting? Or go and buy a flaring kit, and bender and DIY in situ by cutting out the corroded 3 foot of the pipe? Thanks for any thoughts. Alan. -- To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.
From: Paul on 20 Nov 2009 11:19 A.Lee wrote: > My van has failed its MOT today on a corroded brake line. It is around 6 > foot long, and is rather tortuous in its path, so much so, that I'm not > sure if it is possible to replace it without dismantling anything that > is bolted on that side of the van. > A thought occured, could braided flexible lines, as used on motorcycles, > be used in place of this length of copper pipe? > > If not, what is the best course of action to replace the pipe? > Take old one off, get a pattern made? > Cut it, if needed into 2 or 3 bits, then have joints at the breaks to > get it in place when re-fitting? > Or go and buy a flaring kit, and bender and DIY in situ by cutting out > the corroded 3 foot of the pipe? > > Thanks for any thoughts. > Alan. > wire brush it. Invariably 99% of failures i've had with 'corroded' brake pipes pass after you have brushed the 'corrosion' off...
From: Duncan Wood on 20 Nov 2009 11:54 On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:13:17 -0000, A.Lee <alan(a)darkroom.+.com> wrote: > My van has failed its MOT today on a corroded brake line. It is around 6 > foot long, and is rather tortuous in its path, so much so, that I'm not > sure if it is possible to replace it without dismantling anything that > is bolted on that side of the van. > A thought occured, could braided flexible lines, as used on motorcycles, > be used in place of this length of copper pipe? > Yes, but it'll be expensive & springier > If not, what is the best course of action to replace the pipe? > Take old one off, get a pattern made? > Cut it, if needed into 2 or 3 bits, then have joints at the breaks to > get it in place when re-fitting? > Or go and buy a flaring kit, and bender and DIY in situ by cutting out > the corroded 3 foot of the pipe? > That's how I do it. > Thanks for any thoughts. > Alan. >
From: asahartz on 20 Nov 2009 14:43 On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:19:26 +0000, Paul <Paul1231392(a)hotmail.com> wrote: >A.Lee wrote: >> My van has failed its MOT today on a corroded brake line. It is around 6 >> foot long, and is rather tortuous in its path, so much so, that I'm not >> sure if it is possible to replace it without dismantling anything that >> is bolted on that side of the van. >> A thought occured, could braided flexible lines, as used on motorcycles, >> be used in place of this length of copper pipe? >> >> If not, what is the best course of action to replace the pipe? >> Take old one off, get a pattern made? >> Cut it, if needed into 2 or 3 bits, then have joints at the breaks to >> get it in place when re-fitting? >> Or go and buy a flaring kit, and bender and DIY in situ by cutting out >> the corroded 3 foot of the pipe? >> >> Thanks for any thoughts. >> Alan. >> >wire brush it. > >Invariably 99% of failures i've had with 'corroded' brake pipes pass >after you have brushed the 'corrosion' off... And you feel safe with that? Surface corrosion is a sign of real corrosion, and it only takes a pinhole... I've often removed brake pipes with apparent surface corrosion which have fallen apart in my hands afterwards! -- asahartz woz ere
From: asahartz on 20 Nov 2009 14:46
On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:54:53 -0000, "Duncan Wood" <nntpnews(a)dmx512.co.uk> wrote: >On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:13:17 -0000, A.Lee <alan(a)darkroom.+.com> wrote: > >> Cut it, if needed into 2 or 3 bits, then have joints at the breaks to >> get it in place when re-fitting? >> Or go and buy a flaring kit, and bender and DIY in situ by cutting out >> the corroded 3 foot of the pipe? >> > >That's how I do it. > Perfectly acceptable. But if it's original pipe it's probably steel; flaring that in situ is not easy. You'll need a good quality flaring tool; the cheap ones from Machine Mart etc will manage copper but not steel. -- asahartz woz ere |