Paint on rust converter
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From: seabreeze on 6 Dec 2007 12:46 I looked at the Vactan product on the net and it seems to be pretty good. I don't have access to a sandblaster unfortunately, so will try this and see how it goes. Thanks for replies.
From: Gio on 6 Dec 2007 17:11 "seabreeze" <corriequk(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:a276337a-8321-482d-98e5-4bdbb46e3680(a)y43g2000hsy.googlegroups.com... >I looked at the Vactan product on the net and it seems to be pretty > good. I don't have access to a sandblaster unfortunately, so will try > this and see how it goes. Thanks for replies. Hope you find it OK. Can you let us know how you go on and if it works ok ? Gio
From: Graham Harvest on 7 Dec 2007 03:41 "Rob graham" <rttgrahamwow(a)btinternet.com> wrote in message news:aKedndIjsswW-cvanZ2dnUVZ8vSdnZ2d(a)bt.com... > > "seabreeze" <corriequk(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:3b2d71cc-f3e6-48d9-adae-794eb234e9b9(a)s36g2000prg.googlegroups.com... >>I would like to use a paint on rust converter to deal with surface >> rust on the underneath of my van. I have tried Loctite 7503 and Rust >> Doctor, but when I have used them before the rust still seems to come >> back under the paint despite carefully removing as much loose rust as >> possible, following instructions and using a red primer under top >> coat. Suggestions gratefully recieved. > > There is no lasting cure, but I've got a car that is now 52 years old, and > I have had it for the last 23 years and paint (by squirting) the > underneath with old engine oil every two years. A bit messy but costs > nothing and works like a dream. I spray the oil using an air compressor to make a faster job of it, especially as its an old VW campervan and a lot to cover. A proper spraying face mask is advisable and to be aware its very flamable when spraying. Obviously the high air pressure is very good at getting into box section and chassis. Just have to be carefull to avoid pointing at brakes and clutch. I also try to avoid getting oil on the rubber components in case it affects them. I know engine oil used to make rubber parts deteriote, but not sure if that is still the case with synthetic rubbers used today. With old and dried out rubber parts its debatable if the oil actually helps as stops them drying out and cracking. My van rarely moves, but if it was being driven I'd want to wash the tyre tread to remove any oil that might have got on it. I use new engine oil, but suppose old stuff is just as good. I also put some around the lower body to protect it over the winter, but use those little domestic syphon sprayers (type used to spray car wax) for this job. The ones I have will not atomise the oil, so I mix it with water and washing up liquid and after the water has evaporated off, the oil leaves a nice protecting film over the paintwork. Its also very good at making the grey plastic bumpers jet black again. Easy to go around and do a quick squirt mid winter with the syphon if needed. Graham
From: Rob graham on 7 Dec 2007 08:11
"Graham Harvest" <Graham4564(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message news:13li1pnikr6qn3e(a)corp.supernews.com... > > "Rob graham" <rttgrahamwow(a)btinternet.com> wrote in message > news:aKedndIjsswW-cvanZ2dnUVZ8vSdnZ2d(a)bt.com... >> >> "seabreeze" <corriequk(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message >> news:3b2d71cc-f3e6-48d9-adae-794eb234e9b9(a)s36g2000prg.googlegroups.com... >>>I would like to use a paint on rust converter to deal with surface >>> rust on the underneath of my van. I have tried Loctite 7503 and Rust >>> Doctor, but when I have used them before the rust still seems to come >>> back under the paint despite carefully removing as much loose rust as >>> possible, following instructions and using a red primer under top >>> coat. Suggestions gratefully recieved. >> >> There is no lasting cure, but I've got a car that is now 52 years old, >> and I have had it for the last 23 years and paint (by squirting) the >> underneath with old engine oil every two years. A bit messy but costs >> nothing and works like a dream. > > I spray the oil using an air compressor to make a faster job of it, > especially as its an old VW campervan and a lot to cover. Yes, I agree. In fact, this is what I do. A proper spraying > face mask is advisable and to be aware its very flamable when spraying. > Obviously the high air pressure is very good at getting into box section > and chassis. Just have to be carefull to avoid pointing at brakes and > clutch. I also try to avoid getting oil on the rubber components in case > it affects them. I know engine oil used to make rubber parts deteriote, > but not sure if that is still the case with synthetic rubbers used today. No. But I've never had a problem with this. With old and dried > out rubber parts its debatable if the oil actually helps as stops them > drying out and cracking. My van rarely moves, but if it was being driven > I'd want to wash the tyre tread to remove any oil that might have got on > it. I use new engine oil, but suppose old stuff is just as good. I have no problem with old oil, and anyway, it's free! Rob Graham |