From: Jim Warren on
Willy Eckerslyke wrote:

> It shouldn't be though, should it? I understood that one of the specs of
> the DOT rating was that they had to be capable of being used together
> safely. Obviously I'm not advocating mixing them as that removes all the
> benefits of DOT5.

It says DON'T DO IT in big letters on my DOT5 top up bottle. I would
guess that they say that for a reason. Perhaps the mixable DOTs end at
4? 5 is, after all, a different chemical altogether.
>
>
>> Unless you are going to be doing lots of crash stops from high speed
>> and need the higher spec fluid, it is probably more trouble than it is
>> worth to change.
>
> Erm, sorry to disagree again, but I'd have said those circumstances were
> exactly when you _don't_ want DOT5's extra sponginess.

Not sure. You get the benefit of no water content, so no steam bubbles
when everything glows red. And you don't actually want to lock the
wheels (ABS and all that) at high speed so a little bit of sponginess is
helpful. Having said that, the fraction of a second delay between
stamping on the pedal in an emergency and feeling the full braking is a
touch unnerving. Every time. I have had DOT5 in the PI for 5 years
now, and I still haven't got used to it. Perhaps I don't do enough
emergency stops :-)

Jim
From: Mike G on

"Willy Eckerslyke" <oss108no_spam(a)bangor.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:5oot3pFnse7dU1(a)mid.individual.net...

>> I hope you have a WS manual - the handbrake mechanism inside the caliper
>> is a bit complicated to understand. Or was to me.
>
> Hmm, I've only got a Haynes. Better make sure I photograph it all as it
> comes apart.

I have a genuine Rover w/shop manual for the P6.
Was intending to put it on eBay, but if you're interested make me a fair
offer and it's yours. No idea of postage costs, but it would go about 5Kg
inc packaging.
Email me if interested.
Mike.

From: Dave Plowman (News) on
In article <13ies5jrr79refa(a)corp.supernews.com>,
Mike G <metier(a)lycos.co.uk> wrote:
> I have a genuine Rover w/shop manual for the P6. Was intending to put it
> on eBay, but if you're interested make me a fair offer and it's yours.
> No idea of postage costs, but it would go about 5Kg inc packaging.

*5* Kg?

--
*When the going gets tough, use duct tape

Dave Plowman dave(a)davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
From: Mike G on

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave(a)davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4f3a0be764dave(a)davenoise.co.uk...
> In article <13ies5jrr79refa(a)corp.supernews.com>,
> Mike G <metier(a)lycos.co.uk> wrote:
>> I have a genuine Rover w/shop manual for the P6. Was intending to put it
>> on eBay, but if you're interested make me a fair offer and it's yours.
>> No idea of postage costs, but it would go about 5Kg inc packaging.
>
> *5* Kg?

Whoops!
Make that 5 Lbs.
Thanks.
Any idea of a fair price. Softcover is a little grubby and discoloured but
inside the pages are perfect.
Mike.

From: Roger on
The message <13if43u44aanpee(a)corp.supernews.com>
from "Mike G" <metier(a)lycos.co.uk> contains these words:

> >> I have a genuine Rover w/shop manual for the P6. Was intending to put it
> >> on eBay, but if you're interested make me a fair offer and it's yours.
> >> No idea of postage costs, but it would go about 5Kg inc packaging.
> >
> > *5* Kg?

> Whoops!
> Make that 5 Lbs.

Still a great weight. I wonder if the Haynes manual is closer to 5 oz. :-)

My genuine Range Rover manual, a single volume from the early 80s,
weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs but the series 2 Land Rover set I used to
have ran, IIRC, to 5 volumes and could easily have exceeded 5 lbs.

--
Roger Chapman