From: thelane on
>Looks like an auto-reverse hitch, so either the brakes aren't adjusted
>properly (usually they just don't work on the handbrake if the adjustments
>that far out), the shoes are seized so they're not releasing on reverse, the
>shoes are fitted the wrong way around so you're in effect getting an
>auto-forward, or the wrong shoes are fitted (highly unlikely, but not
>impossible).
>It could also be somebody has fitted a new hitch.
>
>Best option is to strip all the brake drums of and see what's going on. If
>it's more than a few years old, it's always wise to do to make sure
>everything is still attached where it should be (linings tend to start
>lifting of the shoes after a few years), and moving freely.

So I am looking for a non existent catch or peg.

If the handbrake was not effective, surely the brakes would not work
forward or reverse ??

The hitch does not look particularly new, by the state of the grease
around the handbrake lever

Any good sites or links to show me the correct method of assy of the
brakes ???

From: Chris Whelan on
thelane wrote:

>>Looks like an auto-reverse hitch, so either the brakes aren't adjusted
>>properly (usually they just don't work on the handbrake if the adjustments
>>that far out), the shoes are seized so they're not releasing on reverse,
>>the shoes are fitted the wrong way around so you're in effect getting an
>>auto-forward, or the wrong shoes are fitted (highly unlikely, but not
>>impossible).
>>It could also be somebody has fitted a new hitch.
>>
>>Best option is to strip all the brake drums of and see what's going on. If
>>it's more than a few years old, it's always wise to do to make sure
>>everything is still attached where it should be (linings tend to start
>>lifting of the shoes after a few years), and moving freely.
>
> So I am looking for a non existent catch or peg.
>
> If the handbrake was not effective, surely the brakes would not work
> forward or reverse ??
>
> The hitch does not look particularly new, by the state of the grease
> around the handbrake lever
>
> Any good sites or links to show me the correct method of assy of the
> brakes ???

Any help?

http://www.towitall.co.uk/trailer_spares/lockheed.htm

Chris

--
Remove prejudice to reply.
From: Harry Bloomfield on

"thelane" <thelane(a)yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:c1msn354urvefcp05k8f5jjme6f5gcrf5g(a)4ax.com...
> My 4 wheel ifor williams trailer drives perfectly OK forwards, and
> when fully loaded.
>
> Seems to be OK when reversing with no load.
>
> But as soon as I get some weight in the trailer and try to reverse the
> trailer brakes come on.
>
> Any idea of what the problem is, and is there an easy fix at the
> roadside. As I do not want to get caught out.

There are two basic types of brakes on these types of trailer. The older
type needed to have some sort of reverse lock put in place before you
reversed, then taken off after. The second type were automatic, operated by
the rear ward rotation of the wheels to disable the brakes.

The brake operation of both relied upon the coupling being pushed back by
the force of the trailer catching up the towing vehicle, hence the need for
the trailer brakes to be applied until the coupling opened up again. A
lightly loaded trailer probably would need much effort to push it back,
hence your not having a problem until it is loaded up.

For the first type, look for a catch or a flap of metal which would prevent
the coupling closing up and apply it only while reversing. If it is the
second type, then your brakes need some adjustment. You need to find out the
name of the manufacturer and seek advice on how they should be correctly set
up.


From: Harry Bloomfield on

<smarshall(a)gmx.co.uk> wrote in message
news:2bb5ccac-c916-479b-8b7c-d095e8ee40ba(a)x71g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 4, 4:47 pm, "Tim.." <the.farm...(a)spam.btinternet.com> wrote:

> Unless trailor brakes are very different from caravan brakes they are
> not meant to do that, when reversing a caravan, loaded or not, the
> brakes do not work.

> Steve

Quite true for modern trailer and caravan brakes with automatic reverse
interlock, but not for earlier designs. The early ones required you to get
out of the car after making sure the hitch had not compressed and manually
throw a lever, or insert a pin before you could reverse. The only exception
was an electrically operated system, where a solenoid on the hitch powered
by the reversing lights inserted a pin for you.



From: Mrcheerful on

"thelane" <thelane(a)yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:o11tn3d03f8iglgv1upp77m782nfdvfkp9(a)4ax.com...
> >Looks like an auto-reverse hitch, so either the brakes aren't adjusted
>>properly (usually they just don't work on the handbrake if the adjustments
>>that far out), the shoes are seized so they're not releasing on reverse,
>>the
>>shoes are fitted the wrong way around so you're in effect getting an
>>auto-forward, or the wrong shoes are fitted (highly unlikely, but not
>>impossible).
>>It could also be somebody has fitted a new hitch.
>>
>>Best option is to strip all the brake drums of and see what's going on. If
>>it's more than a few years old, it's always wise to do to make sure
>>everything is still attached where it should be (linings tend to start
>>lifting of the shoes after a few years), and moving freely.
>
> So I am looking for a non existent catch or peg.
>
> If the handbrake was not effective, surely the brakes would not work
> forward or reverse ??
>
> The hitch does not look particularly new, by the state of the grease
> around the handbrake lever
>
> Any good sites or links to show me the correct method of assy of the
> brakes ???
>

auto reverse release brakes work by the brake shoe assy moving and
releasing, I have never worked on them, but as someone else said the fault
will lie in the drum.

Older hitches with non auto reverse brakes had a lever to allow reversing
built onto the hitch assy.

Trailers need servicing too!!
Mrcheerful


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