From: Tegger on
"hls" <hls(a)nospam.nix> wrote in

> "Tegger" <invalid(a)invalid.inv> wrote in message
> news:Xns9D83AD08F11B1tegger(a)
>> "hls" <hls(a)nospam.nix> wrote in
>>> It worked fine for me, Tegger...
>> Are you already an AutoZone member?
>> Tegger
> Por supuesto... But you can enter as well.

Just did. Username "Tegger" already taken, so I'm "TheRealTegger".

> I looked back into some reference material re drum brakes and in
> most cases they showed the rear brake shoe to be longer than the
> front one. The rear one, in these systems, is pulled into the drum
> surface and gives the most braking effect. This is with the anchor
> pin at the top of the assembly.

I was assuming the opposite: pin at the bottom. OP has pin (plate) at
bottom, so the front shoe would be the leading shoe.

> Now, Aarcuda and I have posted some things that seem to be at
> odds, but really they arent. If the brake cylinder were leaking when
> the OP pulled off the drum, then CASE CLOSED...this means that
> the cylinder has to be replaced or rebuilt. IF, however, he buggered
> the cylinder while trying to reassemble the system, and IF it leaked a
> little, this is not proof that the cylinder is bad.. BUT if he leaked
> a little fluid due to heavyhandedness, it IS an indication that he
> MUST bleed the loop. If fluid can come out, air can come in.
> It is a darn shame that brakes, a subject that is not all that
> complicated, is causing this young man such concern. It is NOT that
> complicated, but you have to know what you are doing, and you have to
> do what is needed to attain a professional, or at least adequate,
> brake renewal.

It's also necessary to have sufficient mechanical aptitude to be able to
think your way around a mechanism that you've never seen before.

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