Brake advice on a 1996 chevy Silverado 4x4
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From: Tegger on 25 May 2010 21:19 "hls" <hls(a)nospam.nix> wrote in news:u9GdnV232--_0WHWnZ2dnUVZ_ridnZ2d(a)giganews.com: > > "Tegger" <invalid(a)invalid.inv> wrote in message > news:Xns9D83AD08F11B1tegger(a)208.90.168.18... >> "hls" <hls(a)nospam.nix> wrote in > >>> It worked fine for me, Tegger... >>> > >> Are you already an AutoZone member? >> Tegger > > Por supuesto... But you can enter as well. Just did. Username "Tegger" already taken, so I'm "TheRealTegger". > > I looked back into some reference material re drum brakes and in > most cases they showed the rear brake shoe to be longer than the > front one. The rear one, in these systems, is pulled into the drum > surface and gives the most braking effect. This is with the anchor > pin at the top of the assembly. I was assuming the opposite: pin at the bottom. OP has pin (plate) at bottom, so the front shoe would be the leading shoe. > > Now, Aarcuda and I have posted some things that seem to be at > odds, but really they arent. If the brake cylinder were leaking when > the OP pulled off the drum, then CASE CLOSED...this means that > the cylinder has to be replaced or rebuilt. IF, however, he buggered > the cylinder while trying to reassemble the system, and IF it leaked a > little, this is not proof that the cylinder is bad.. BUT if he leaked > a little fluid due to heavyhandedness, it IS an indication that he > MUST bleed the loop. If fluid can come out, air can come in. > > It is a darn shame that brakes, a subject that is not all that > complicated, is causing this young man such concern. It is NOT that > complicated, but you have to know what you are doing, and you have to > do what is needed to attain a professional, or at least adequate, > brake renewal. It's also necessary to have sufficient mechanical aptitude to be able to think your way around a mechanism that you've never seen before. -- Tegger |