Bleeding Brakes on Toyota
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From: dsi1 on 14 Feb 2010 17:47 On 2/14/2010 12:02 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote: > In article<TKXdn.49867$5n.25372(a)newsfe23.iad>, dsi1<dsi1(a)spamnet.com> wrote: >> I've had to replace calipers and brake cylinders in all of my cars. As >> far as I know, it's not a good idea to do this and retain your old, >> brownish, sludgy, moisture-laden, brake fluid. I'll at least bleed the >> brakes until the fluid runs clear - it's the easiest thing in the world >> to do. > > I have done this several times... and looking at what was coming out made > me suspect that changing the fluid would have prevented the failure in the > first place. > >> It could be that the high humidity over here is a factor but you're got >> to be the luckiest guy in the whole world if you've never had to replace >> the those parts on your cars. > > I have now a car that is nearly 25 years old and has the original brake > cylinders and lines... and I attribute this longevity to my changing the > fluid and purging the lines every three or four years. May not actually > be the case, but it doesn't seem to be hurting. I think you may be right about this. I don't buy new cars so I pin all the blame on those negligent previous owners. :-) > --scott
From: Ashton Crusher on 14 Feb 2010 20:05 On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 02:15:06 -0500, Hachiroku ???? <Trueno(a)e86.GTS> wrote: >On Sat, 13 Feb 2010 17:22:12 -0700, Ashton Crusher wrote: > >> On Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:49:59 -0700, "M.M." <nobody(a)nowhere.com> wrote: >> >>>My daughter's BF wants to change the brake fluid in his Corolla. It's a >>>fairly late model...2005 or 2006, maybe 2007...so I assume it has ABS. Is >>>there anything special about it on those cars? Can it be done without a >>>scan tool? >> >> >> Dang, I thought you were going to ask about all the blood stains on the >> pavement from drivers killed by driving those things. > >It's amazing how you can still post after one left your brain splattered >all over the street... > >But when one actually reads your posts, it's not such a mystery after all... > Your pain over the Toyota failures is noted.
From: Steve W. on 14 Feb 2010 22:27 Vic Smith wrote: > On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 09:00:01 -1000, dsi1 <dsi1(a)spamnet.com> wrote: > >> I've had to replace calipers and brake cylinders in all of my cars. As >> far as I know, it's not a good idea to do this and retain your old, >> brownish, sludgy, moisture-laden, brake fluid. I'll at least bleed the >> brakes until the fluid runs clear - it's the easiest thing in the world >> to do. >> > Be my guest. > >> It could be that the high humidity over here is a factor but you're got >> to be the luckiest guy in the whole world if you've never had to replace >> the those parts on your cars. >> > Never had a caliper or wheel cylinder fail. > But except for a couple, I usually only have a car for 6-8 years > before rust gets it. But they're usually 5-8 years old when I get > them. > Replaced a few failed MC's, which leads to bleeding, which once led to > replacing a cylinder on one wheel. After that when I saw I'd snap the > bleeder I just bled at the line connection to the wheel cylinder. > Worked fine. Used that method a couple times when I replaced rusted > rear lines. > Never had trouble with caliper bleeders. They don't seem to rust like > the wheel cylinder bleeders. > I don't see not replacing calipers/cylinders as "lucky." > But if they started failing on me I might consider that "unlucky." > My experience is mostly limited to Chevys, but I never had a > caliper/cylinder problem with my Ford or Chrysler either. > Think I replaced the MC on the Ford. > In fact, other than the MCs and a few rusted lines, the only brake > problem I've had was when I did an emergency stop in my VW squareback > shortly after I bought it. > Slewed real bad. When I got home I crawled under the back axle and > found....a snapped off bleeder on the passenger side wheel. > No, the EZ-Out didn't work, but cylinders are cheap. > >> The trend these days is to sell loaded calipers to guys servicing brakes >> which could be seen as a marketing ploy. However, I've bought these sets >> if I thought my seals were leaking, the savings in time and hassle seems >> worth the price - but I could be wrong. :-) >> > What do you mean "thought my seals were leaking?" > What kind of cars are you talking about? > Should be obvious if the seals are leaking or not. > I've seen "damp" boots on wheel cylinders - which I ignore - but never > any sign of leaking on calipers. > Not saying it doesn't happen, just that it hasn't on my cars. > BTW, I don't race my cars. Just abuse them normally. > Let me toss this in, since we're talking about bleeding. > My brother, who was a pro mech, speculates that most MC failures are > due to bleeding, where the bleeder moves the piston farther than it > normally goes, and screws the seals. > Makes sense, but I'm no expert. > I have seen mention of using a "stop" behind the pedal to prevent > this. I never used one when I bled brakes, but it might be a good > idea. > Or use a pressure bleeder to avoid the pedal action altogether. > > --Vic > You must live in an area that usually doesn't get snow/salt on the roads. In this area if you buy a 5 year old vehicle and keep it 5 years, you WILL be replacing wheel cylinders, calipers, and lines. Salt just LOVES to eat them up. I'm to the point now that I just plan ahead and pre-bend new tubes when the originals are in good shape. I'd pay extra for a vehicle equipped with quality stainless lines (fuel, brake and emissions) One less headache... -- Steve W.
From: Nate Nagel on 14 Feb 2010 22:39 On 02/14/2010 10:27 PM, Steve W. wrote: > Vic Smith wrote: >> On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 09:00:01 -1000, dsi1<dsi1(a)spamnet.com> wrote: >> >>> I've had to replace calipers and brake cylinders in all of my cars. As >>> far as I know, it's not a good idea to do this and retain your old, >>> brownish, sludgy, moisture-laden, brake fluid. I'll at least bleed the >>> brakes until the fluid runs clear - it's the easiest thing in the world >>> to do. >>> >> Be my guest. >> >>> It could be that the high humidity over here is a factor but you're got >>> to be the luckiest guy in the whole world if you've never had to replace >>> the those parts on your cars. >>> >> Never had a caliper or wheel cylinder fail. >> But except for a couple, I usually only have a car for 6-8 years >> before rust gets it. But they're usually 5-8 years old when I get >> them. >> Replaced a few failed MC's, which leads to bleeding, which once led to >> replacing a cylinder on one wheel. After that when I saw I'd snap the >> bleeder I just bled at the line connection to the wheel cylinder. >> Worked fine. Used that method a couple times when I replaced rusted >> rear lines. >> Never had trouble with caliper bleeders. They don't seem to rust like >> the wheel cylinder bleeders. >> I don't see not replacing calipers/cylinders as "lucky." >> But if they started failing on me I might consider that "unlucky." >> My experience is mostly limited to Chevys, but I never had a >> caliper/cylinder problem with my Ford or Chrysler either. >> Think I replaced the MC on the Ford. >> In fact, other than the MCs and a few rusted lines, the only brake >> problem I've had was when I did an emergency stop in my VW squareback >> shortly after I bought it. >> Slewed real bad. When I got home I crawled under the back axle and >> found....a snapped off bleeder on the passenger side wheel. >> No, the EZ-Out didn't work, but cylinders are cheap. >> >>> The trend these days is to sell loaded calipers to guys servicing brakes >>> which could be seen as a marketing ploy. However, I've bought these sets >>> if I thought my seals were leaking, the savings in time and hassle seems >>> worth the price - but I could be wrong. :-) >>> >> What do you mean "thought my seals were leaking?" >> What kind of cars are you talking about? >> Should be obvious if the seals are leaking or not. >> I've seen "damp" boots on wheel cylinders - which I ignore - but never >> any sign of leaking on calipers. >> Not saying it doesn't happen, just that it hasn't on my cars. >> BTW, I don't race my cars. Just abuse them normally. >> Let me toss this in, since we're talking about bleeding. >> My brother, who was a pro mech, speculates that most MC failures are >> due to bleeding, where the bleeder moves the piston farther than it >> normally goes, and screws the seals. >> Makes sense, but I'm no expert. >> I have seen mention of using a "stop" behind the pedal to prevent >> this. I never used one when I bled brakes, but it might be a good >> idea. >> Or use a pressure bleeder to avoid the pedal action altogether. >> >> --Vic >> > > You must live in an area that usually doesn't get snow/salt on the > roads. In this area if you buy a 5 year old vehicle and keep it 5 years, > you WILL be replacing wheel cylinders, calipers, and lines. Salt just > LOVES to eat them up. > > I'm to the point now that I just plan ahead and pre-bend new tubes when > the originals are in good shape. > > I'd pay extra for a vehicle equipped with quality stainless lines (fuel, > brake and emissions) One less headache... > if you have a keeper, why not remove your lines and send them to classic or inline for a pattern before they're completely hosed? Obviously you'd have to do this around a vacation or something, because they're not going to get your shiny new stainless lines back to you the next day. just a thought... I dunno where you live but it sounds horrific. I grew up in western PA and even there I really only remember two vehicles having to replace hard lines, and both were fairly elderly. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel
From: cuhulin on 14 Feb 2010 22:57
Rusty brake cylinder problem? The way White Post Restorations does it. http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html cuhulin |