From: TE Chea on
| > it still gets dirty in the same length of time.
Not if [i] cooling is improved til the hottest cylinders' walls
are <121�C [ii] dust in air intake is all filtered off ;
Mitsubishi & Honda let dust enter distributor cap's air vent,

| dark deposits forming on components
I believe this is tar formed esp in cylinders 2&3 ( hottest in a
4 cylinder inline engine ) because temperatures there reach
121�C ( when mineral oil becomes tar ).

By fitting 6 cable lugs & copper wires ( even 8 per lug ) to the
3 rocker cover bolts ( esp the 1 above these 2 hottest cylinders
) above exhaust manifold, I managed to cool my Mitsubishi*
4G15P til its mineral oil ( Bardahl MXP 10w30 ) remains pale
green, even after 1500 km use in 33�C humid air so far !
I think every manufacturer should @ least do this ( use copper
wires to cool the hottest cylinders ) for hot climates.

From: TE Chea on
| reading reports years ago (annoyingly difficult to find
| on the 'net) about the interrelationship between oil age and
| wear ?

From: ray on
Ed White wrote:
> On Mar 30, 2:06 pm, Ray <r...(a)> wrote:
> The Center for Auto Safety is funded by trail lawyer that web site is
> designed to drum up buisness for trail lawyers. While they might not
> make stuff up, I wouldn't count on CAS providing fair and balanced
> information. The web site is just another commercial like the ones
> amulance chasers run on TV.
> Ed

I posted that link because it was one of the first ones that came up.

I don't own ANY of the affected cars, but I've seen enough recall
notices coming up on CNN and other sites to conclude there ARE a handful
of current engines that ARE suffering from sludge problems.

My $.02 on oil change intervals and type of oil thus remains:
When your car is under warranty, do what the manual says if you want to
keep the warranty valid. If they want you to use 0W30 and change it
every 87 days or 4,287 miles, do so. Once it's out of warranty, you can
do whatever you want. I continue to use the severe service schedule for
my cars. It gives me breathing room if I'm behind on my maintenance,
and where I live it gets to -40 in the winter, so if that's not severe
I try not to outsmart the engineers who designed my car, but I also
realize that the car companies want my engine to last a long time, but
not necessarily as long as I want it to last.


From: Hairy on

"SMS" <scharf.steven(a)> wrote in message
> clifto wrote:
>> SMS wrote:
>>> Remember, even Mobil 1 and Amsoil are only semi-synthetic. They use
>>> synthetic base stock but then add petroleum based carrier oil.
>> Everything I can find at suggests that Mobil 1 is fully
>> synthetic.
> Right, it's what you would expect to find on the Mobil 1 site! Actually
> they do allude to it on their site.
> "Each Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 Extended Performance viscosity grade uses a
> unique combination of synthetic fluids _and selected additives_ in order
> to tailor the viscosity grade to its specific application" (underlining
> mine).
> It's the "selected additives" that are not synthetic. The base stock is
> what is synthetic." The additives can be close to 20% of the volume.

You seem to be long on claims, but short on substantiation.
Anyone can say anything, but until they back it up, it's just more BS.


From: SMS on
Hairy wrote:

> You seem to be long on claims, but short on substantiation.
> Anyone can say anything, but until they back it up, it's just more BS.


It's the Mobil 1 site that states that their oil is not fully synthetic,
it's not my opinion or my claim.