Rewire Ford Focus
in [Car Maintenance]
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From: Conor on 28 Jul 2007 16:55 In article <EINqi.8187$ph7.3989(a)newsfe5-win.ntli.net>, Chris Whelan says... > Also, many of the crimp lugs I used were on moving systems (on filling and > packaging production machines) where a soldered joint would literally have > failed in minutes. I know, because I tried... > I just don't get this "soldered joint falling to bits" thing. Am I missing something? I've just never come across one. -- Conor It arrived at their repair center last week so only another month or so to wait
From: Conor on 28 Jul 2007 16:58 In article <xn0f98ztiahww9009(a)nermal.unix-consult.com>, Timo Geusch says... > Conor wrote: > > > In article <87vec4kdhd.fsf(a)odie.internal.unix-consult.com>, Timo > > Geusch says... > > > Chris Bartram <news(a)delete.me.piglet-net.net> writes: > > > > > > > Dave Plowman (News) wrote: > > > > [snip] > > > >> However, any loom can be repaired. It would however require a > > > skilled >> person to do the job correctly. Most mechanics and so > > > called auto >> electricians bodge such things. The standard red > > > blue and yellow >> electrical crimp terminals most use are really > > > not up to the job and >> proper car connectors should be used > > > instead. This is a source of such >> connectors and the correct > > > wire if needed. > > > > > > > > >> > > > http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage. > > > php > > > > > > > > > > > > > My choice is to solder and heatshrink on the few wiring repairs > > > > I've had to do. Properly done it's better than any crimp, and > > > > neater. > > > > > > It's also a hell of a lot more prone to break due to vibration. > > > > > Solder and heatshrink? You think? > > No. > > I *know*. > > It's a reoccuring problem that I have to track down on some bikes I > own/owned (the vibration on bikes is usually worse than on cars but the > same thing applies to cars) - some alarm fitter solders a connection, > covers it in heatshrink. > That's because the alarm manufacturers require heatshrinked soldered joints to be used in order to meet their certifications for Thatcham. Or at least they used to. It was specifically mentioned in installation and certification literature on many. -- Conor It arrived at their repair center last week so only another month or so to wait
From: Chris Whelan on 28 Jul 2007 17:10 Conor wrote: > In article <EINqi.8187$ph7.3989(a)newsfe5-win.ntli.net>, Chris Whelan > says... > >> Also, many of the crimp lugs I used were on moving systems (on filling >> and packaging production machines) where a soldered joint would literally >> have failed in minutes. I know, because I tried... >> > I just don't get this "soldered joint falling to bits" thing. Am I > missing something? I've just never come across one. When the solder lug is fitted, or a soldered joint is made, solder creeps up the cable by capillary action. This turns a flexible cable into a solid one. If subjected to frequent movement or vibration, the *cable* will break, usually at the point where the solder has stopped flowing into the cable. The industrial situation I was quoting would not be found in the car world. TBH, as far as car wiring repairs are concerned, it's not a problem. A properly made solder joint, or a properly made crimped one, are more than capable of outlasting the vehicle. I just take issue with those who crimp the wrong size of lug on to a cable with a pair of side-cutters or whatever, and then claim that crimped joints are not suitable for car applications! Chris -- Remove prejudice to reply.
From: Chris Bartram on 28 Jul 2007 17:16 > It's a reoccuring problem that I have to track down on some bikes I > own/owned (the vibration on bikes is usually worse than on cars but the > same thing applies to cars) - some alarm fitter solders a connection, > covers it in heatshrink. > > Five years down the line, you've got an intermittent fault that you > finally track down to the broken connection inside the heatshrink tube, > because the stiff connection has broken. If you solder it properly it's > less prone to breakage but overall the issue is that you've got > something flexible (two cables) joined together by something inflexible > (the soldered joint) without any other form of mechanical protection. > That's a reasonable point. Hovever, if you use adhesive heatshrink, and ties up the cables afterwards, you can avoid the problem. The fact is that if you use the solder as the electrical connection, then take care of the mechanical issue, you won't have a problem. As you say, the problem is the soldered area isnstiff, and the cable isn't. However, crimp connectors are stiff too, and solder takes up less space and is easier to strap up properly afterwards. > Mind you, my favourites are those people who tin the end of a cable and > then crimp on a connector... > Thereby making sure the crimp doesn't work.....
From: Chris Bartram on 28 Jul 2007 17:23
Conor wrote: > In article <EINqi.8187$ph7.3989(a)newsfe5-win.ntli.net>, Chris Whelan > says... > >> Also, many of the crimp lugs I used were on moving systems (on filling and >> packaging production machines) where a soldered joint would literally have >> failed in minutes. I know, because I tried... >> > I just don't get this "soldered joint falling to bits" thing. Am I > missing something? I've just never come across one. > > Soldered joints can fail with vibration over time (dry joints that make your TV play up so you have to hit it), but in the stuation we're talking about, the most likely failure is the wire breaking where it meets the joint, as the joint is inflexible. Like others have said, crimps can be reliable, but you need good connectors, and a good tool (=�����), whereas with a bit of skill, a good soldered joint is cheap for repair, and if you cable tie it properly, it will be fine. |