From: Duncan Wood on
On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 10:16:44 +0100, Dave Baker <Null(a)> wrote:

> "Chris Whelan" <cawhelan(a)> wrote in message
> news:Byv5o.36645$2%2.27183(a)hurricane...
>> On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 00:56:42 +0100, T i m wrote:
>> [...]
>>> So, do they actually 'lock' in use or would they allow something like
>>> said eyebolt to be removed by hand would you think please? I was
>>> looking
>>> for some resistance to stop them undoing if in the trailer and unused
>>> but to be removable by hand if they were in the way.
>> They work pretty much like a Nyloc.
>> However, both types of stiffnut are designed as "use once" items, so
>> appear totally unsuited to your application. Methinks you need a new
>> design!
> Agreed. The Philidas nuts retain some vibration loosening control after a
> few uses but eventually any type of Nyloc or similar nut just conforms to
> the bolt thread and stops working. If the eyebolts are to be removed and
> refitted on a regular basis then just use normal nuts and torque the
> eyebolts up properly each time with a stout bar through the eye. A decent
> pull on a 1 foot extension bar out of a 1/2" drive socket set will apply
> the
> required 30/35 foot lbs easily enough.
> Another option is to drill the protuding end of the eyebolts for a cotter
> pin or spring pin, fit them loosely and rely on the pin to stop them
> coming
> right out.

Aerotights generally last until they go rusty.
From: T i m on
On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 22:45:02 +0100, "Duncan Wood"
<nntpnews(a)> wrote:

>Bend/weld a bit of metal into the right size U that the nut can't rotate &
>weld that in, no spanner needed :-) Pinch it up with a pair of molegrips
>after you've fitted the nut.

I was thinking about that as well. ;-)

I thought of a female hex the same size as the nut, welded to the
angle and a retainer over the top to stop the nut falling out ... or
just tapping a M10 thread in a little bit of 10mm plate and tacking /
bolting [1] that on there. ;-)

However, it's quite handy to be able to rotate the nut as then you can
set the position of the eye and then nip it up. Or, if I want to make
the eye movable it might be easier to let the assembly rotate without
the nut undoing.

In hindsight I also quite like the simplicity / flexibility of using a
std nut / bolt assembly. Easier for field repairs or mods etc.

Cheers, T i m

[1] Using two countersunk machine screws from the top of the angle
before fitting it to the trailer.